Trim Tab Installation Question

[racer2c]

So I'm deep into my trim tab install and I'm drilling the holes to attach the actuator to the transom. When I drilled my pilot holes I discovered that the transom area that I want to drill through is probably only a 1/4 inch thick. There isn't any wood backing. There is no where else I can move the actuator to. Will that 1/4 fiberglass be sufficient to support the actuator and the water pressure? Will I need to put a backing plate in it to stiffen it up? If so any recommendations as to what type of wood etc?

I'd call Bennett but they are Mon-Fri only.

Thanks!

[seapuppy]

well..I'd say yes...fiberglass is very tough and strong......but are you sure you drilled in the right place??....mine is about 2" thick....it's huge..


SP :|

[racer2c]

Originally Posted by seapuppy

well..I'd say yes...fiberglass is very tough and strong......but are you sure you drilled in the right place??....mine is about 2" thick....it's huge..


SP :|

Yeah, it's the right place alright. The port side has about an 1" build up of glass, starboard side has maybe a 1/4" at best. I went ahead and used a 5"x5" piece of 3/4" pressure treated plywood as a backing plate on the starboard side. When I ran the screws through on a 'dry run' even the 1/4" felt like a rock but just for my peace of mind. I did some searching and found a Boston Whaler message board where a few were discussing the exact same thing. BW being a Brunswick boat also I thought it was interesting.
In my application, I missed the 12"x12x" piece of wood that they used to reinforce the eye hook for the trailer strap. You can see where they used wood reinforcement and where they didn't.
In the end, both sides feel rock solid.

Now I just need to figure out where to run the ground from the hydraulic pump (I'm thinking about the negative side of the alternator????) and where to wire in the power supply. There is an open spot on the fuse block but I also have 2 aux switches that I could use. Is that simply a matter of plugging the power into either of the open connectors on the switch?

Thanks SP!

[seapuppy]

I wouldn't run it to a switch...I'd run directly to one of the fuseable links in the dc panel....they don't require a sw. so..that would be the logical place to get pwr....for even more fun and money..install the auto trim tabs unit....350 bucks and it automatically keeps pitch where you set it....if someone moves..it resets the boat back to level in a few seconds...


great for a big boat....don't know how it would work in a small boat...

SP irate:

[racer2c]

Originally Posted by seapuppy

I wouldn't run it to a switch...I'd run directly to one of the fuseable links in the dc panel....they don't require a sw. so..that would be the logical place to get pwr....for even more fun and money..install the auto trim tabs unit....350 bucks and it automatically keeps pitch where you set it....if someone moves..it resets the boat back to level in a few seconds...


great for a big boat....don't know how it would work in a small boat...

SP irate:

Thanks SP. I wired it up to direct power and ran the ground to the battery and presto...active trim tabs! Can't wait to get her in the water this weekend to try them out!~

[racer2c]

Well, another extremely satisfied trim tab customer!!! We set out in consistent 2' seas, tabs fully retracted and experienced the ever annoying 'hull slap' that beats you up after just minutes. A couple of 1 second 'bursts' of the 'bow down' controls and the teeth chattering hull slaps softened to the point of hardly noticing them! It's not that the boat didn't move of course...physics being laws and all that...but it was like we had shock absorbers or rubber dampers! Being able to force the bow down to allow the v to cut through the waves has just made our choppy Gulf excursions not just 'bearable' but enjoyable when prior we really only went any real distance in less than 1' seas, which is rare.
Bennett recommends retracting the tabs in following seas or when running an inlet (not applicable in our area) so when heading back to our channel I fully retracted the tabs and was surprised how beat up we were getting (chop was easily 2 1/2' - 3' at this time) so I lowered the tabs just a bit and it helped. I could feel the stern wasn't as 'planted' however (felt 'loose'.

Heading through the canals on way to the ramps my wife now points out all of the boats that have tabs installed and we were surprised as to how many are factory designed and installed (where the tabs are recessed into the transom). It should be an option on all boats!

For the clubs 'Smart Tab' contingent, you may be happy to hear that when I was telling my sister about my positive experience with my new tabs she balked at the price of the Bennetts so I told her about the Smart Tabs and she said that's the route she will go for her sport boat.

[seapuppy]

Glad it worked out for you......



SP :mrgreen:

[ss3964spd]

Thanks for the follow up report Racer.

Happen to have any photos of the install?

Dan

[racer2c]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Thanks for the follow up report Racer.

Happen to have any photos of the install?

Dan

I took some afterward that I'll post up soon. I was too heads down to take pics along the way.

A few tips...'dry run' all screws (without sealant). I used the the larger of all pre-drill sizes that Bennett recommended as the small sizes were just impossible.
If fiberglass bothers you wear long sleeves when drilling your transom holes...I itched for 2 days after!! LOL!!

I took my time and split things between Sat and Sun, in all it took me about 8 hours.

[ss3964spd]

Thanks RC2.

Would like to see pics of the installed tabs and of the installed switches if you can.

Regards,

Dan

[racer2c]

Here is the finished tab job. Very pleased with the placement. Bennett recommends as far outboard as possible but with at least 3" to the chine, which I was able to do. I wanted to follow the contour from chine to chine but this works better as I am still able to use my trailer straps without manipulation.

Each screw tightened as if screwed in stone. Very pleased with how strong they seem.





I could have centered this controls but the helm wire harness runs just above this.



Nice that Maxum left an open aux terminal. I simply crimped on the connector that Maxum left there, replaced the fuse with a 20 amp and plugged it in (bottom right corner)! Couldn't have been any more simple. Fun project!



The hydraulic pump nestled in with the outdrive hydraulic pump. It's tight but it works. The trick I used was actually removing the wood 'wall', installed the bracket, reinstalled the wall and slide the pump unit into the bracket.

[ss3964spd]

Thanks for the photos R2C, well done and looks good.

Just seems there is a lot of pressure on the tabs while under way so I'm always surprised to see that the tabs and actuators are only secured with screws, opposed to nuts-n-bolts. Of course, I also tend to over analyze, and then over engineer, things.

Installing tabs will be a winter, or spring, project for me. A little concerned about placement because, like yours, I'm worried that the trailer straps will want to occupy the same space on the transom that the tabs do. Won't know until I eyeball it though.

Thanks again for the write-up and photos.

Regards,

Dan

[seapuppy]

might wanna seal or paint that knick in the bhd on the last pic....nice job though!!...

SP :mrgreen:

[racer2c]

Originally Posted by seapuppy

might wanna seal or paint that knick in the bhd on the last pic....nice job though!!...

SP :mrgreen:

LOL!! I'm laughing because I KNEW you were going to spot that and tell me to paint or seal it!! Too funny!! That was where Maxum had a clamp that secured the fuel hose to the bhd. They screwed it at a bad angle into a knot and as soon as I unscrewed it, the knot fell out. There are two other clamps so I left that one off. I will definitely paint it.

[seapuppy]

My job is complete!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: irate:



SP :hello: