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Old 06-30-2023, 05:37 PM   #1
Lt. JG
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Clearview, WA USA
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Default Seperating Battery Location 2400SCR

I am changing my starting battery to a larger group 27. Factory location seems too small for the same size house battery. Since I don't have a generator, I'm thinking of locating my house battery next to the waste tank. My question is do I need to run the negative cable back to the start battery or is it a good ground path if I attach to the engine block. Just curious if the ability to charge both batteries while under way would be compromised.
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Old 06-30-2023, 11:25 PM   #2
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You can tie it to the engine block which is how both are current connected even if one jumps to the other. You will need to run a new positive from the battery to the selector switch as well as the charger bank 2 positive wire to the new location.
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Old 07-01-2023, 12:36 AM   #3
Lt. JG
 
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Thank you mmwjr. Kinda what I thought.
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Old 07-02-2023, 02:09 PM   #4
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mmwjr, just a follow up. I installed the second battery (House) yesterday. I'm not sure if there have been modifications by the previous owner but checking on a couple of issues. Batteries seem to be able to power systems in switch positions 1 or 2 with a couple of exceptions.

1. Tilt/Trim is wired only to start battery. Can I splice and attach to the engine terminal on my battery switch so tilt and trim works on either battery selected? (I always use heat shrink self soldering connectors)

2. I still have no power to cabin lights, aft berth lights, head lights, wiper, and stereo. I am beginning to think I should replace factory fuse block with a higher quality unit from Blue Sea. I haven't yet started to check all the terminal for power but have installed all new fuses.

Just about ready to put in the water after what appears to be 12 years on the trailer!!!
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Old 07-02-2023, 06:34 PM   #5
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Yes you can tie the trim wiring to a common hot but the idea of having a house battery is to isolate it from the start battery so if a long day on the hook the starting battery doesn’t get run down. Yup many have had to replace the cheap fuse block. I would first verify 12V on the ignition switch B terminal with the key off and then on the I terminal with the jet in the run position. The I terminal feeds the gauges.

Have you measured for power on the fuse block. Does waste your time guessing get real measured data.
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