My 3200 SCR Restoration - Page 9 - Maxum Boat Owners Club

mmwjr · 06-17-2016, 03:29 AM

Cool enjoy the season.

speedysprocket · 06-17-2016, 08:57 PM

She floats!
Tops out at about 37-38 mph and cruises nicely at 24-26. I think the 23 pitch props was right. But maybe they're off a little? One engine tops out at about 4500 and the other a little over 4000. And I have to throttle the higher rpm engine back for cruising speeds. Only other thing is one engine is considerably weaker, which I hope isn't the case.

Little frustration putting her in. Port engine wouldn't run, even though she ran for 20 minutes on the hose two nights before... Well carb that I rebuilt over the winter was all gummed up already! Needless to say, I cleaned both carbs out again and put my new filters on.

mmwjr · 06-18-2016, 12:06 AM

Well it's running and in the water, now time to work out the issues.

shrew · 06-20-2016, 02:54 PM

2 identical engines, with the same pitch prop with a difference in max rpm of 500 (4000 nd 4500)? That doesn't sound right. 4000 is way under the max rpm range of 4400 - 4800. Even 4500 is acceptable, but low.

speedysprocket · 06-20-2016, 03:23 PM

I was going try switching the props left to right and then take the boat out using the shifters in reverse to see if it follows the props or if it is a weaker engine.

Drove the boat two hours yesterday to her marina and loved it. Had no issues besides the difference in engine RPMs.

Things I noticed though:
- Where would I tighten the throttle levers? They liked to creep back down over time.
- After driving the boat for a while without shifting, the first time going back to neutral with one drive is harder than normal. After that initial shift, it's normal again. Is that a sign of anything in particular?

shrew · 06-20-2016, 03:25 PM

That is a really good idea. You may have a tuning issue with one of the props.

speedysprocket · 06-20-2016, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shrew

2 identical engines, with the same pitch prop with a difference in max rpm of 500 (4000 nd 4500)? That doesn't sound right. 4000 is way under the max rpm range of 4400 - 4800. Even 4500 is acceptable, but low.

Don't the speeds sound correct though?
Tops out at about 37-38 mph and cruises 24-26 mph at 3200 rpm.

shrew · 06-21-2016, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedysprocket

Don't the speeds sound correct though?
Tops out at about 37-38 mph and cruises 24-26 mph at 3200 rpm.

Speed can be dictated by weight, current, tide, wind, sea state (size of waves). Therefore the exponential complications of the variables makes speed a poor metric.

For example, running with a tide/current or against. What is the speed of the tide/current? Is there both, such as at the mouth of a river on an outgoing tide? what speed (2 kts? 3.5 kts?) Am I running into the wind or against? what is the wind speed and direction? into a head sea or following sea? I can pick-up 5 kts surfing down the face of a wave in a following sea.

The engine RPM is fixed at WOT under load, regardless of how fast you're going.

speedysprocket · 06-28-2016, 07:35 PM

Threw a timing light on the engines and found they were both timed to 0 degrees advance! So fixed that. One engine still tops out at 4500 and the other 4200, but I'm actually impressed with how hard they pull her up onto plane and how well she accelerates. So I plan to run them till they obviously need work...
Got my AC working and was so happy. Even found that they drained it into a sealed box with an automatic pump. And then the raw water pump died...
Oh, and the head works well. I had a jumper wire between the batteries on wrong so the house keeping battery was dead. Corrected that and the head and radio amp all work.
Bottom line is I still love the boat, my dog likes it, and the wife and baby are getting use to it!

speedysprocket · 08-30-2016, 01:20 AM

Here's a new one-
The reservoir for one of my drives kept going down the first month or so. It would drop anywhere from 1/8" to 3/8" a week. It's slowed down lately, but still drops slightly.
So I was changing the plug wires and noticed gear lube on my hands after messing with the starboard side of that engine. It's coming out of the end of the shift cable!
Ever heard of the seal on the shifter shaft leaking oil into the shift cable cavity and coming back up the cable? The drive did pass a pressure test. Guess if it has to leak, that's probably the best place for it. That cable should last forever now!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mmwjr · 08-30-2016, 02:28 AM

It's a new one on me.

Are you certain the lube hose is not leaking as it runs across the top of the engine in that area. I have seen it too close to the shift bracket and a hole worn in it.

speedysprocket · 08-30-2016, 02:37 AM

No. That hose, which has been replaced at some point, is running across the top of the intake manifold. This gear lube is green and coming from the end of that plastic sleeve on the cable, where it attaches to the transfer arm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

speedysprocket · 09-02-2016, 10:47 PM

So anyone intimately familiar with a later Bravo transom plate? I have the pitot tube assembly that comes with the tube attached to the fitting that threads into the transom. And then there's a fancy quick disconnect for the helm tube to connect to that through hull fitting.
Well I broke the tip off the one in there so bought a new one. While the boat was out today, I tried to swap them out. The old fitting unscrewed without the rubber tube attached. So I pulled the tube off from the outside. But I think that brass crimp is stuck in the transom. I can't get the new tube in.
So my question is- is there a lip or should preventing me from knocking that brass crimp out from inside the hull? I can't even see it from the outside without taking the drive and bell housing off...
Thanks for reading!

speedysprocket · 09-05-2016, 11:48 PM

Is my best bet just to try drilling that brass out next time the boat is out of the water? I really don't want to take the gimbal ring off again...

mmwjr · 09-06-2016, 01:44 AM

That's the way I would go.

speedysprocket · 09-11-2016, 01:30 PM

Yesterday one of my tachs started acting up. Rpm indicated would be anywhere from 50 to 300 greater than what the engine was actually doing. And the difference was inconsistent. I could verify what actual rpm was based on the other engine's tach and the meter I have that shows difference in engine rpm. And throttle lever position confirmed that.
So where should I start? Hope that's not a sign of failing distributor electronics.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mmwjr · 09-11-2016, 02:44 PM

On the back of the tach there is a cylinder selector for 4,6,8 cylinder engines. They rotating it back and forth a few times to see if this corrects the issue. Else inspect and clean the connections.

Did you hear any change in the engine?

speedysprocket · 09-11-2016, 04:12 PM

Thanks, I'll try that. The engine definitely wasn't changing rpm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

HavaMax · 09-11-2016, 09:11 PM

I have one tach hat I have to use the 2 finger tap all the time......

mmwjr · 09-11-2016, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavaMax

I have one tach hat I have to use the 2 finger tap all the time......

Jesse try the selector switch rotating that I mention as this typically fix it for some time other than that it's time to replace the tach.