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02-11-2016, 05:11 PM
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#81
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Is there only one model pump or should I take mine apart before I order the new kit?
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02-11-2016, 11:31 PM
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#82
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedysprocket
Is there only one model pump or should I take mine apart before I order the new kit?
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I know of 2 pump styles but to my knowledge they both use the same kit. The difference is that for the 7.4 EFI ones the fuel pump mounts to the raw water pump and there is a chamber that needs to be filled with oil to lubircate it.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-11-2016, 11:59 PM
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#83
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
I know of 2 pump styles but to my knowledge they both use the same kit. The difference is that for the 7.4 EFI ones the fuel pump mounts to the raw water pump and there is a chamber that needs to be filled with oil to lubircate it.
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Thanks
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02-20-2016, 03:54 PM
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#84
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Are the two drives different at all so one turns right and the other left, or is it just the shifters actuate in opposite directions? I bought the boat with the drives removed, so not quite sure which one goes on which side, though I will try to check the serial numbers again...
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02-20-2016, 05:48 PM
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#85
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedysprocket
Are the two drives different at all so one turns right and the other left, or is it just the shifters actuate in opposite directions? I bought the boat with the drives removed, so not quite sure which one goes on which side, though I will try to check the serial numbers again...
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The drives are identical except on one you set the shift lever up as counter rotating. This is easily done by removing the upper rear cove to access the shift linkage. Refer to the Bravo manual on how this is done.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-20-2016, 05:48 PM
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#86
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Captain
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 522
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Bravo Drives are bi-directional.
Rotation direction is simply determined by the shift cable direction
and no damage will take place by reversing the running direction
or by installing the Bravo drives on different sides. Again, the RH propeller is
usually installed on the starboard side and the LH propeller is usually
installed on the port side.
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02-20-2016, 05:51 PM
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#87
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Captain
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 522
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Additional thought...
Be sure to put the "reversed" shifter in reverse, not forward (as called for by many manuals when removing/installing drive... Cable must extend out from the bellhousing to release the linkage.
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02-20-2016, 05:55 PM
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#88
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparsons121
Additional thought...
Be sure to put the "reversed" shifter in reverse, not forward (as called for by many manuals when removing/installing drive... Cable must extend out from the bellhousing to release the linkage.
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I do not believe this is correct for Bravos but is true for Alphas. Bravo is done in neutral.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-21-2016, 04:39 AM
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#89
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Thanks for the tips.
Next thought is on the mercathode anode on the bottom of the gimbal housings. Is there any way to test that it works properly? Is there even anything that can fail in it besides a wire breaking?
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02-21-2016, 01:23 PM
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#90
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-21-2016, 02:27 PM
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#91
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
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So it can only be tested in the water?
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02-21-2016, 03:12 PM
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#92
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedysprocket
So it can only be tested in the water?
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To test the full system yes. If you put the drive up to the anode in a drum of water you should be able to test it as well however being no path for stray currents the system may not really be operating so you will not know the truth.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-23-2016, 04:01 PM
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#93
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Any one run a K&N flame arrester vice the stock metal screen one? Just wondering how big of one I should get...
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02-24-2016, 02:38 PM
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#94
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Found a good deal and bought two of these:
K&N 59-3364 Marine Flame Arrestor, Marine Products
Should flow more and protect the engines better! I will have to get/make longer studs to run them, though.
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02-24-2016, 05:16 PM
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#95
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Not sure you will really notice a performance increase in a big cruiser.
let us know, even better if you have performance numbers to compare.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-24-2016, 06:21 PM
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#96
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Not sure you will really notice a performance increase in a big cruiser.
let us know, even better if you have performance numbers to compare.
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I know the difference is going to be tiny, I was more worried about the engines breathing in dirt in the engine compartment. I sand blasted the gimbal housings, and you know as hard as you try to seal off where you don't want sand, it's still going to find its way there...
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03-06-2016, 04:40 AM
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#97
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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I got one outdrive ready and plan to install it. Just wondering how the drive shaft is sealed when the outdrive is mated to the bell housing, though. Is the drive supposed to seat itself into the end of the bellow?
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03-06-2016, 05:09 AM
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#98
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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There is a seal kit that has o-rings to seal to the bell housing. The bellows is the seal for the drive shaft. The splines on the drive shaft go into the coupler that is mounted on the engines flywheel.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-06-2016, 05:10 AM
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#99
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Captain
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 526
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Ok that's what I thought. I have the install seal kits.
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03-06-2016, 05:19 AM
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#100
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,597
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Bravo drives are heavy which makes installing somewhat difficult. What helps and should be done anyhow is to check engine alignment with an alignment tool. This verifys coupler alignment to the gimbal bearing is correct, if off installing the drive is almost impossible and will wear out the coupler prematurely.
__________________
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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