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08-24-2023, 07:49 PM
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#21
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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Thanks Mike and Phillbo
There's a new item on my wishlist
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08-24-2023, 07:55 PM
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#22
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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I had a daily trip today, there are some photos
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08-24-2023, 08:10 PM
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#23
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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Now about the sad.
I left the marina with a full tank of fuel and water, I was alone.
The estimated distance was 14.4 nautical miles.
The sea was claim and no wind.
My top speed was 31 mph (according to mobile app)
After that my cruise speed was 28 mph.
In the middle of the distance, the alarm went off and the boat lost speed, a second later the engine began to choke, I put it in neutral and turned off the engine.
After a couple of minutes, I started it again, the indicators were as follows, look at the photo
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08-24-2023, 08:21 PM
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#24
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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In other words, all indicators were normal.
I made the decision to turn back and drove home at 9 mph, the engine was running smoothly, the speed was stable, but as soon as I tried to increase the speed, the engine choked.
And one more detail, the right (starboard) raiser was warm and the left (port) raiser was cold.
What is the problem? Where to look?
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08-24-2023, 10:40 PM
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#25
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Horvat
I had a daily trip today, there are some photos
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Gorgeous.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-24-2023, 10:50 PM
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#26
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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First get yourself an IR temp sensor and take actual temperature readings of the thermostat housing, and both exhaust manifolds/risers. I prefer real data. Being a EFI engine you can read out the fault codes if you have a Ridna tool or buy the PC version that you can load onto a laptop along with the cable to plug into the test port. Otherwise pay a mechanic who has the tool to read out the codes. Several sensors and any one could be seeing a fault if not faulty itself.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-29-2023, 09:29 PM
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#27
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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All data is in degrees Celsius.
Measurements were taken after 30 minutes of boating at 2500 rpm.
Port side:
manifold 55.6
raiser 39.6
block 80.6
Stb. side
manifold 65.2
raiser 55
block 69.2
Thermostat housing (see pic)
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08-30-2023, 03:20 PM
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#28
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Those readings look good, were they taken sitting at the dock, underway or when the engine looses power? The later is preferred.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-30-2023, 03:46 PM
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#29
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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They were taken underway.
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08-30-2023, 06:57 PM
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#30
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Horvat
They were taken underway.
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Was the engine running normally or was it experiencing power loss at the time?
Best bet to get codes read from the ECM.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-30-2023, 07:17 PM
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#31
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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I did not plan to spend $600 on a diagnostic tool, but it seems I have to do it.
I assume this one will be enough for me
https://www.rinda.com/rindashop/shop...acom-94105-kit
Answering to your Q Mike, the engine is not running normally, 3000 RPM is the maximum.
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08-31-2023, 01:10 AM
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#32
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Yup, that one will do.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-11-2023, 01:35 PM
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#33
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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New day - new trouble.
Yesterday I had a trip to the nearest island and one of the cooling tubes started leaking. The pipe was fixed with aluminum tape, there is no leak at idle, but there is a leak at speeds higher than minimum. I drove home at minimum speed and my boating season is over.
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09-11-2023, 09:05 PM
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#34
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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That’s the engine circulating pump hose, replace it. Higher rpm high water flow and pressure. Use your engine serial number to look up the part number so you can search for it locally.
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...iAAEgJRlfD_BwE
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-12-2023, 03:07 PM
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#35
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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Replace your thermostat and gaskets, cheap and easy to help with possible heat issues.
Hoses are expensive so sorry for that, but way to important to not change out.
Check your belt on your engine, any cracks replace it.
Impellor change it out, if your doing hoses anyway.
These are cheap parts for thew most part, and will help troubleshooting overheating.
My 2500 SCR had temperatures like yours, and the boat ran much cooler once I changed out the impellor.
Good Luck.
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09-12-2023, 09:07 PM
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#36
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Croatia
Posts: 85
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Thanks Mike and Mr. Hemi
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09-21-2023, 02:51 PM
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#37
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,684
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The problem is your incident occurred when you were running at 28 mph. What was your RPM at that speed?
Your temps were taken at 2500 RPM, is that the RPM that gets you to 28 MPH?
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09-21-2023, 03:46 PM
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#38
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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Temperatures are not that bad, 185 is a bit high but would not cause for alarm.
My gauges were a lot better than yours, and they were out more than 10 degrees.
based on temp and oil; pressure I dont see a problem.
If temperature keeps climbing with RPM above 185 degrees, then I would be worried, but again I bet gauges are not very accurate.
Boating running good at low RPM but sputtering at high RPM makes me think fuel issue, or IAC if you have one.
For sure replace thermostat.
https://www.lakewizard.com/post/boat-beeping.
Good Luck.
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09-21-2023, 03:58 PM
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#39
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillbo
Bad trim limit sensors... replace them both.
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Your trim limit switches are good.
When you use the trim up, it has a safety that makes sure you dont pull the drive out of the water when running.
So when you use the switch, it only comes up about 1/2 way on guage.
this is normal.
When you use the trailer switch, you are pulling the drive out of the water, so it allows motor to be pulled up completly.
If you even find your trim switches are not working correctly and your in a jam, just remember to use your trailer switch to lower or raise up.
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09-21-2023, 03:59 PM
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#40
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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if you need some replacement gauges let me know.
I am changing mine out soon.
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