Looking at a 94 3200 SCR

[speedysprocket]

Hello,
New here and looking for some guidance. I'm planning to go look at a 1994 3200 SCR this weekend with twin 7.4 Mercury engines. Engine hours listed in the mid 300 range.
The boat is list at $12k and after talking to the listing agent a little, he says the yard it's at estimated it needs $10k in work. When asked what that work was, he said the engines and generator haven't run in three years, the outdrives are off and need new boots, the eisenglass needs to be replaced, and general detailing.
I have no problem overhauling the engines, drives, or doing glass work myself. There are other boats of the same year and model closer to me in the water for $19-20k, so I was going to offer $9-10k. But are there known issues with these boats I should look for? I've read about the A/C drain flooding the rear floor and know to look for signs of leaks. Anything else these boats hide? Does it sound like a fair investment overall?
Thanks,
Alex

[mmwjr]

Welcome aboard

That water over the rear floor you mentioned can led to rot so check to see if it's soft and springy.

Transom and stringers are also prone to rot for boats of this age expecially if left sitting and not covered properly. This is a costly repair so use a dead blow hammer to listen for a solid thud.

[speedysprocket]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

Welcome aboard

That water over the rear floor you mentioned can led to rot so check to see if it's soft and springy.

Transom and stringers are also prone to rot for boats of this age expecially if left sitting and not covered properly. This is a costly repair so use a dead blow hammer to listen for a solid thud.

Thanks for the reply. Where are the stringers I should be looking for? Otherwise, are these solid boats?

[mmwjr]

The stringers are the stiffness that run along the bottom of the hull on the inside and double as the mounts for the engines which allows engine load to be transferred to the hull. Look in the engine compartment for the engine mounts, where they bolt to the boat is the stringers. There are lamented over wood as is the transom. This is standard on most boats. Small cracks in the fiber glass that encapsulate the wood allows water to penetrate which eventually leds to rot.

May be ok but something to check no matter age or manufacture.

[mmwjr]

Do you plan to buy as is or try to get it running first to access engine conditions?

Also inspect the drives for corresion and condition of the gear lube which may show bad seals if water is in the lube.

[speedysprocket]

Ok, thanks for the info!

[speedysprocket]

So went to look at it. Not sure if you can make it out, but the gel coat all over the starboard bow is bubbled. Boat sat in the water three years with shrink wrap on it, which likely caused the bubbles as well as light mildew. There's no structural impact of those bubbles, right? Just cosmetic?
Engines run, tank is empty. Drives need a refresh, but look solid. Some water under the rear floor, but not to the floor and it feels very solid. Stringers and transom feel solid. About 350 hours on engines and 430 on generator. Yard estimated 10-12k for the repairs. Running versions in the area are advertised 19-20k. You think I'd be low balling with a $8k offer? Or should I start at $9k? It's going to cost me another $1500 to move it to where I am.

[mmwjr]

What does the yard say about the bubbles? These look like blister which is a de lamination of the gelcoat.

If they are blister they need to be opened up and repaired otherwise they will open themselves over time and expose the glass mat material.

[speedysprocket]

Yes sorry, blisters. He said I could sand them down then have fresh gel coat sprayed.

[mmwjr]

Get a quote as there are many, also gel coat matching is an art so find a good fiberglass shop

[speedysprocket]

Are there any major issues with the Bravo II drives to be aware of?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by speedysprocket

Are there any major issues with the Bravo II drives to be aware of?

None, I have one on my boat and it has been trouble free.

The early B3's had corresion issues but merc fixed that with the latter ones.

[speedysprocket]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

None, I have one on my boat and it has been trouble free.



The early B3's had corresion issues but merc fixed that with the latter ones.

This is a 1994... They parts, particularly the trim rams, look corroded, but I think it's a combination of light corrosion and stuff that's been growing on them in the fresh water for three years.

[mmwjr]

Corrosion can be an issue with any drive if the gear is not maintained with proper paint and anoids.

Having been in fresh water the damage will be less. The transom assemblies should be overhauled.

[speedysprocket]

What is proper paint for after I clean all that off?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by speedysprocket

What is proper paint for after I clean all that off?

All bare aluminum should get primer paint followed by merc drive paint then an anti-foul ant .

West marine has good writes ups for this.

[Timbo]

Welcome aboard, I have a 95 3200SCR and I love it I've had no real problems to speak of. I bought it a year ago for 21K and put about 5K into it. I would give them a low ball offer and go from there judging from what your saying it needs you'll be pretty close to a break even if were to ever sell it. The other things that you should look at and consider changing would be the risers and the manifolds if its been sitting that long.

[speedysprocket]

Thanks. I offered $8k; waiting to see what they say.
I'm going to do all the work myself, except spraying gel coat, so I would plan to come in well under the $20k mark. I've been looking at parts prices and nothing seems too outrageous.

[Timbo]

Good luck and keep us posted.

[speedysprocket]

They accepted my offer! Now to finish up the trucking details...