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05-10-2024, 07:03 AM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 4
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Looking at a 2002 1800 SR, many questions
I'm looking to potentially buy a 2002 Maxum 1800 SR from my neighbor.
The boat has been sitting for 2 years since it was last in water. It has a 2023 registration sticker on it. The trailer is galvanized. So far I see the cover is ripped and mosquito city in a nice pool of fetid water. Some clearly got into the boat through a big rip, over that last 6 very rainy months here in the US PNW. How bad is that?
These boats I've seen listed for 6-8k in this area, in running condition on the water. Neighbor is asking 2.5k. I don't think it has been winterized. I will do my best to check transom and floors for rot and engine block for cracks. I can check for a seized engine but I don't know what else to look at. What tell-tale signs of problems can you share?
I am curious about the Maxum 1800 SR in general. Since I don't know what engine it has, but I suspect it might be a 3.0 Mercruiser, how does that engine perform in this boat? Is power adequate? Because I have read that it's a bit underpowered in that configuration.
How many hours is too many for an engine of that size?
The guy is acting like all this thing needs is spark plugs and a wash. He seems very optimistic, but it might be a sales ploy. I am concerned about the standing water situation and the condition of the interior, water damage to any exposed components, rust, seized cables, rot, etc.
If a boat has water standing in it, does that water reach the structural wood inside the hull?
I can't afford a 6-8k boat and looking to trade time for money. I fix lots of things.
Please advise me what to look for when I look under the cover tomorrow. Thanks a million!
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05-10-2024, 03:14 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,690
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Is there standing water on the INTERIOR? I would pass. Those conditions with the "It's a boat, it's supposed to get wet" attitude is what leads to soft decks. Soft decks lead to soft bulkheads, stringers and transoms.
"All it needs is....." are the famous first 4 words of anyone trying to anything, anywhere, ever. "I can't start it for you, but all it needs is <insert part here> and you'll be good to go. Some soap, water and wax and and oil change and you'll be <insert activity here> in no time. These are going for <Insert higher price here> if you can find one".
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05-10-2024, 03:26 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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If he won’t let you start it up and take a sea trail run away. As shrew said famous words are “all it needs” had lead to engine replacement many times.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-10-2024, 05:29 PM
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#4
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 4
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Well, I understand that in an ideal world you walk away from anything that doesn't look pristine. But then you have to be prepared to pay full price. What does a person do that doesn't want to bother prepping a boat for sale and is just looking to get rid of it? In your world, that never happens.
I have bought many things for cheap or even picked up for free that I sold for profit or am using to this day. These are things with engines in them, things that I replaced parts and even made some upgrades. What made that possible is my knowledge of mechanics and a calculated risk, knowing that even if all goes wrong my loss is limited to x amount. The trailer looks good. It's galvanized, that's probably at least $500, maybe $1000. The boat may have some value, even the engine. If you make a bet and you have 60% chance to win, then you should make that bet every single time. What I need is information to determine the chances of winning here.
No offense but your replies give me little to no information and most of my questions haven't been answered. I get that you would walk away. I am not asking you to be responsible for my decision. I am asking that you guide me to determine the condition of the boat.
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05-10-2024, 05:56 PM
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#5
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 130
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It’s going to depend on how much work and risk you’re willing to take on. For starters, you should get in the boat and see where the water is laying and just look for the obvious signs of rot and moisture damage.
My bigger concern would be the motor. If it wasn’t winterized and you experience sub-freezing temps in your area then it’s most likely shot. They aren’t self draining like outboards so it’s a pretty sure bet. I’m not sure you to verify if there is antifreeze in the block but maybe others can comment. You might be able to pull a drain plug off the manifolds. If water comes out definitely pass, if antifreeze comes out it’s better but still no guarantees without a compression test and running it.
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05-10-2024, 06:22 PM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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Didn’t mean to offed. Yes I would walk away but I would not recommend this boat either was my point. With over 30 years owing and working on boats I cannot tell you the number of times I’ve heard “ just needs…battery, carb cleaning…” only to end up being a trashed engine.You stated not winterized, are you willing to spend the money for a new engine? I’ve seen these engines die anywhere from 250 to 2000 hours depending on how well it was maintained. Yes water laying in the bilge can possibly find its way into the wood core. Stress cracks occur over the years allowing this to happen. Only an inspection can verify this. Look for mold, rot, signs of corrosion on electrical items, oil bilge frozen steering and throttle cables. Excessive play in the outdrive. Note a new marine engine install by a mechanic will cost around $7K. I hope you find this more informative.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-10-2024, 06:24 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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Also does he have titles for both the boat and trailer? Getting replacements should be done by him else you will be facing a mountain of work.
BTY a 3.0 is probably enough for this size boat unless you plan to take a bunch of guys water skying. It may also have a 4.3 which would be better IMO.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-10-2024, 11:00 PM
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#8
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the responses. No offense taken.
I took a good look at the boat today. Below are some pictures. I found out that the boat hasn't been winterized. Judging by the owners attitude, probably ever. The winters are mild here. It may not be cracked by it's impossible to tell for sure from the outside.
It has had water sitting in it at least over the last rainy season and when we pulled the cover off everything was in the rear and lower part of the boat. At least the drain plug was out but some water sat. The engine was covered in a layer of moisture. It has rusted, although I can't tell if it's all from one season or more.
The transom seems solid as I pulled the outboard up and down forcefully and there's no movement. I tapped areas under the floor with a hammer and either the fiberglass is too thick to tell, or there's little to no wood rot.
There seems to be a lid missing from the back side. The hinge is still there but I couldn't find the lid.
As the battery was still connected and 1 year old, I tested the trim which works and holds. He replaced the battery last year, which means he liked the boat enough to do that, and he bought a new propeller, because he ran the boat onto some rocks. See the damage in the pics.
The underside has a bunch of scratches and a nasty cut where the trailer wood board split and it rubbed on the hinge. The cut seems fairly deep. I forgot to check if it's through all the way. This might be a huge issue if water got in and it has been like this for long enough to rot wood.
I think the engine would have to be pulled just for due diligence, even if it ran. This means I would need a forklift or some gigantic engine hoist that can reach over the back of the boat and move towards the front while holding the engine.
I would also need to lift the boat off the trailer to repair the wood.
So, at the very least it's a project boat. Not going in the water this season. You be the judge how bad that rust is, but I am 90% sure I'm going to pass on this, for any amount of money. That engine is a pig and I don't feel like putting lipstick on it. Oh it's missing a bolt, too.
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05-11-2024, 12:30 AM
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#9
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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I don’t see anything glaring that in my mind is saying that’s really bad but I will point out what I see as concerns.
Why are the plug wires off and why is there so much rust around the one plug?
What’s the oil look like?
Doesn’t look well maintained, very dirty as you know.
Biggest flag is where is that in the fourth picture with the big split?
The bottom is solid fiberglass and the scrape isn’t all the way through the gelcoat so no big deal and easy to fix.
Chip out on drive can be fixed by someone who knows how to weld aluminum.
Stains on the side of the engine block indicate leaks. Could be a crack but I don’t see any evidence of any. Typically freeze damage is on the outside of the block because those walls are thinner than the inside.
Last two pictures are a sign that it’s time to replace the exhaust manifold and riser.
Let us know what you decide.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-11-2024, 02:57 AM
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#10
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2024
Posts: 4
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I took the wires off the plugs to better capture the rust around the plugs. No clue why there is so much rust. On the right side of the engine the paint started to peel off in a large chunk. There may be a crack under there. Not pictured.
I didn't check the oil.
I settled on this engine having to come out, which means a lot of work. I don't like that it has been neglected and never winterized. I didn't know the water jacket was thinner on the outside. So if there are no cracks on the outside then the engine won't have any cracks?
Basing my opinion on engine removal, I already decided to pass on this boat. You seemed to have changed your opinion somewhat after seeing the pictures. Now you're making me second guess myself for passing. He lowered his price to 1800. Has title for both. Would you buy it if it ran and didn't have water in the oil? Let's assume the split at the bottom can be epoxied or whatever the procedure is.
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05-11-2024, 12:35 PM
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#11
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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No my opinion really hasn’t changed was just trying to give you all the options. If it runs and there are no signs of leaks on the engine due to cracks that would be good. Removing that plug with all the rust may lead to it breaking off which may mean the head needs to be pulled and taken to a machine shop. IMO you are looking at a few thousand dollars and a lot of hours of your time to get this boat in decent condition.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-11-2024, 06:28 PM
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#12
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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A good running boat can cost you a few thousand dollars in maintenance.
This boat will need all of that, excluding manifolds.
If it runs and floats, I would look at it more closely.
If he cant be bothered to start it, walk away.
personally I would not touch it.
It might be so much work, you never buy a boat again, and never get to enjoy what a good solid boat experience is really like.
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