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04-27-2011, 11:19 PM
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#21
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, United States
Posts: 247
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Just called Maxum customer service and they were able to confirm that its a 2.20. So I'm going ahead and ordering that one from Victory Marine for $3400.
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04-27-2011, 11:34 PM
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#22
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cymru
Hey Nimh, I just got off the phone with a guy at Victory Marine in Houston ( http://www.govictorymarine.com/drives.html). He took my engine serial number and looked it up and told me that it’s a 2.20 leg. He has what he calls a brand new, not current (old stock) BIII to replace it for $3400 + $180 shipping. That's about the best I've found so far. Problem is, with the conflicting thing between 1.31 and 2.20, I'm scared to pull the trigger and get this on its way. I'd like to be able to confirm. I sent usmboats/Bayliner an email but it might be a few days. What do you guys think about this? Can’t find anything online that's negative about Victory.
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That sounds like a great deal, especially after the original quote! Great find. I think it's worth waiting it out for the info before pulling the trigger. Shipping alone to correct a mistake would be awful painful.
Yeah, Rich - I read you were having problems too. Sorry to hear. Glad you could pick one up locally. The guys at Harbor Marine have been really helpful in many of my projects. That they're in my back yard is an added bonus.
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Jim and Angie
2005 Maxum 2400 SE
5.0L MPI with Bravo 3
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04-27-2011, 11:36 PM
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#23
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cymru
Just called Maxum customer service and they were able to confirm that its a 2.20. So I'm going ahead and ordering that one from Victory Marine for $3400.
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Cool!
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Jim and Angie
2005 Maxum 2400 SE
5.0L MPI with Bravo 3
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04-28-2011, 02:27 PM
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#24
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Sounds like you might be able to get this done and dusted for around 4K, which is somewhat more palatable than, what, the bazillion dollars you were initially quoted.
Are you going to use the same mechanic that diagnosed the drive failure and offered the original quote? Is he ok with installing a customer supplied drive? Will he warranty his work? After all, you did just eliminate many thousands of dollars of revenue from coming into his shop.
Dan
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04-28-2011, 02:40 PM
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#25
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, United States
Posts: 247
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He's actually the Marina mechanic Dan and he was the one that privately gave me the number for Victory Marine so I am going to let him do the work. He's already quoted me $276 to install it. The work is warranted through the marina itself and hopefully, will be done before next weekend if he can get the drive in by Thursday. It is supposed to be shipping today.
I asked him about the pricing he originally gave me and he told me that the marina dictate where he gets the quotes from for any large item be it engine or outdrive. He tended to agree that the pricing was ridiculous but as he pointed out, he is an employee and he does what he's told. Does not give me much loyalty towards them though. They currently have no policy in effect if a customer has its own replacement parts and if they are asked to replace with a customer’s part they will do so on a labor only basis. The work is warranted by them and the part by the manufacturer. The outdrive does come with a warranty but only 6 months.
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04-28-2011, 04:43 PM
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#26
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Sounds like a good plan, and it's really great that the boat won't be out of commission for a month or two. The 6 month warranty is a little thin but I think if there's going to be a problem then it will manifest itself in short order.
Run the snot out of that thing for the first month or two!
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05-03-2011, 07:28 PM
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#27
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, United States
Posts: 247
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This damn saga continues...
Just had a call from the mechanic. He tells me now that at some point in the past, the outdrive gear oil reservoir was disabled. Let me try and explain a little farther to see if it makes any sense to anyone.
Basically, the way it was explained to me way that there is a pipe that goes from the reservoir in the engine room compartment down and through the transom and that it then connects to the outdrive. That I understand. But how and why would someone disable it? Then he says that an oil line on the outdrive side of things somehow got a hole in it and that is where the oil leaked out and eventually was replaced by water.
Now the kicker is, I have two choices. In order to make that reservoir and line operational again, he is going to have to take the engine out because it passes through the transom at a place behind the engine that's not accessible. Obviously the scope of work (and cost) is that much greater if we do it that way. My other choice is simply not to hook it up at all.
What's your opinion guys? In a perfect world where money was no object, I would not have this question but reality bites and I'd like your advice.
Thanks in advance.
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05-03-2011, 08:41 PM
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#28
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Commander
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: B.C. canada
Posts: 265
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oil line
I would follow the line down to see if it is There.I know some guys plug the line where the leg split for transom a little valve that stops the oil from passing from the reserve bottle when you pull the leg.I see no reason to pull the motor .look up the service manual and check it out.If the leg is off and the reserve full push on the valve to see if oil flows.good luck check it out
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05-04-2011, 02:24 PM
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#29
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, United States
Posts: 247
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I guess a picture is worth a thousand words.
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