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05-31-2022, 08:02 PM
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#1
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Issue Starting Maxum 2400 SCR
Hey everyone, new maxum owner here. I just bought the boat a month ago. took it out several times. Came back the other day to start it and i have no power to the dash and no alarm with the key in on position, and nothing when turning over the key all the way. other dash accessories work fine (i assume they run directly to the battery) I took out my multimeter and did some testing.
Kill lanyard is correctly in place.
With battery switch in the Run position
Im getting 12.6V at both batteries. I get 12.6V at the starter from the hot terminal from the battery. I get 12.6V from the B terminal on the ignition switch. I get 0V from the S terminal on the ignition switch when I turn the key to On (I already replaced the ignition switch). I also get 0V from the B terminal when the key is on (i assume because it should be going to the S terminal after turn).
With the key in On position, i get 0V to the starter at purple, and when i turn the key all the way over i get 0V at the yellow/R wire at the starter.
I have checked every fuse on the boat. In this model the 90amp fuse is on the Power trim, and i have checked that and trim works just fine when battery is on.
On the slave solenoid, bridging the two terminals, the starter kicks over so I know its not the starter.
I havent checked the slave solenoid, or the 50 amp circuit breaker (it seems to be pushed in).
Since the gauges dont light up with the key in the On position and no alarm, probably not the slave solenoid?
My next guess is testing/replacing the 50amp circuit breaker but its an absolute pain to get to.
Anything else I should check? Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Mitch
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06-01-2022, 01:04 AM
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#2
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Update.
I replaced the slave solenoid and the 50 amp breaker.... exact same issue.
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06-01-2022, 02:03 AM
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#3
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Would a short in the dash cause an issue with the key in the ignition?
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06-01-2022, 02:28 AM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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The ignition switch B terminal should have 12VDC all the time. The ignition switch I terminal should have 12VDC when the key is in the run and start positions. The ignition switch S terminal should only have 12VDC when the key is in the start position. When the key is in the run position do you have 12VDC on the + terminal of the ignition coil? If so the ignition system is getting power. When trying to start does the small terminal on the slave solenoid get 12VDC? If not verify the throttle is in neutral and that the neutral safety switch is closed. Another test is to put the key to the run position and use insulated handled pliers jump the two large terminals on the slave solenoid to see if the engine turns over.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-01-2022, 03:18 AM
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#5
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Hey Mike! Thanks for the reply. The B terminal has 12v on the ignition switch. In the run position the I terminal reads 0V. Same with S position (0 volts). jumping the slave solenoid the engine turns over. On the starter motor i see the same purple, yellow/R wires, and obviously the big Red power line. Where are these coming from? The boat is in the water so i cant see behind the engine.
Throttle is in neutral, safety switch in engaged.
Where is the + terminal on the ignition coil when checking in the run position? I see 4 inputs on the ignition switch (im using 3) power, ignition, start and accessory (not in use)
To note, I had it runnning for about 15 minutes.... Turned it off, wouldnt come back on.
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06-01-2022, 11:54 AM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Mitch
I’m going out of town the rest of the week so I won’t be on line till Saturday. Try removing the ignition switch I and S wires then turn the key to run and see if you have 12VDC on the I terminal. If you don’t but still have 12VDC on the B terminal the ignition switch isn’t working properly. If you now get 12VDC on the I terminal then there is a short somewhere but this should have blown the ignition fuse. Note since you don’t have power on the I terminal there will not be power to the ignition system likewise on power on S terminal = no power to slave solenoid.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-01-2022, 05:10 PM
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#7
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Hey Mike, Thanks for all the help. I will test removing the I and S cables from the ignition switch today to see if I get 12v from the I terminal when the key is in run.
If I do, then there has to be a short in the dash or something. I noticed in my wiring diagram, the purple wire goes from the I terminal, and then to all the gauges and alarm and back to the wiring harness. im wondering if one of the gauges or the alarm itself is bad. could this cause the issue im having?
Hopefully youre taking vacation. Ill post back my findings.
Thanks!
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06-01-2022, 05:58 PM
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#8
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 82
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Make sure it's not something with the shifter as well.
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06-01-2022, 07:12 PM
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#9
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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How would it be shifter related other than not being in neutral or the kill switch. thanks!
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06-01-2022, 07:14 PM
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#10
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 82
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That's what i was getting at . If neutral isn't indicated all plus all the other safety checks passed it won't do anything
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06-01-2022, 08:14 PM
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#11
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Yep, I have check both
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06-01-2022, 08:27 PM
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#12
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 82
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Great post by the way. You went thru a lot of things that will eventually help a lot of people.
Hope you get if figured out soon!
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06-02-2022, 01:08 AM
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#13
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Update: Mike thanks for the tip. I checked the ignition switch. With all 3 wires. (red/p, yellow/r purple) connected, i get 12v at red/p in the off position. when the key is in run I get 0v on I and B.
Removing all cables but B I get 12v as expected from I in run and S in start. I have a short somewhere. Accessories on the dash work. No gauges or start. The wiring diagram indicates purple runs through all the gauges and the alarm. Could i have a short in one of the gauges? the purple might not be completing the circuit back at the ignition coil?
Thanks!
Mitch
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06-04-2022, 12:31 PM
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#14
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Hi Mitch any progress? I would connect the I terminal wire and repeat the test. If voltage is not good you know where to start looking.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-04-2022, 04:38 PM
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#15
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Hey Mike. im going back to the boat today. I will test just the ignition wire. If im getting 0v do you think its a problem in the dash?
Thanks
Mitch
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06-04-2022, 06:08 PM
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#16
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitcheaton
Hey Mike. im going back to the boat today. I will test just the ignition wire. If im getting 0v do you think its a problem in the dash?
Thanks
Mitch
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I’ll need to look at the wiring diagram to provide suggestions.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-04-2022, 07:20 PM
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#17
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Captain
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mn.
Posts: 664
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Your getting 12 v, but I think that the ignition switch is bad.
Try jumping B to I and see if motor cranks.
Don
__________________
1995 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7 A1 G2 LUNA DE MIEL SOLD
1988 Bayliner 2455 5.0 IO (sold)
1987 Seaswerl 18ft C. Cabin 4.3 IO(lost in fire)
2012 South Bay Pontoon
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06-04-2022, 07:21 PM
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#18
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Captain
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mn.
Posts: 664
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Your getting 12 v, but I think that the ignition switch is bad.
Try jumping B to I and see if motor cranks.
Don
__________________
1995 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7 A1 G2 LUNA DE MIEL SOLD
1988 Bayliner 2455 5.0 IO (sold)
1987 Seaswerl 18ft C. Cabin 4.3 IO(lost in fire)
2012 South Bay Pontoon
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06-05-2022, 12:51 AM
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#19
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Ok it’s bugging me that the ignition fuse doesn’t blow when you are getting zero volts on the I terminal. Try removing all three wires and connect the B and I wires together. Do you still have 12VDC? If yes temporary touch the S wire to these to see if the engine will turn over and start. If it does the ignition switch is bad.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-07-2022, 12:31 AM
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#20
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 29
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Hey Mike, ill take a look this week. I already replaced the ignition switch with a new one.
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