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Old 11-03-2013, 11:11 PM   #41
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do you change your oil and filers in the end or start of the season?
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:54 AM   #42
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I do at the end of the season....

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Old 11-04-2013, 01:36 AM   #43
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Pas ...go to. www.mrpropwrench.com

The is the mother of all prop wrench's



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Old 11-04-2013, 02:06 AM   #44
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I change my oil/filter and fuel filter at the end of every season.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:42 PM   #45
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I do mine at the end. My thought is, if there's water in there, I want to know about it and I want it out of there. Besides, isn't bottom painting and waxing enough work for the spring?
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #46
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I agree Shrew...........Its like the question of changing your spark plugs in the fall . Do you really want to fog brand new plugs. Just wait and do it in the spring.

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Old 11-07-2013, 02:10 PM   #47
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living in Paradise(South Florida) We enjoy 12 months of fun in the Sun. In my past life as a NY'er, We would always haul out around the 1st of November.
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:56 AM   #48
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Haul-out and winterizing are necessary evils up here in the Inland Empire. We have an annual Oktoberfest on the lake the 1st weekend in October and then the mass exodus happens. This year the wife and I stay in for one last quite weekend after most had hauled out. The marina was creepy quite.

Steps to put her away for the winter:
-Walk-around inspection at ramp
-Pump-out, drain H20 and fresh water washdown
-Wax (#50 Cleaner/Wax) from rub rail down to paint (I use a rotary mach w/ black foam 6" pad)
-PINK the holding tanks
-Pump, change & replace eng oil & filter
-Pump the PINK thu the block & fog her till she stops
-Drain the block, drop the manifold hoses
-Replace the impeller (every 3yr)
-Fog the plugs
-Drain, inspect & replace drive lube
-Remove topside obstructions; anchor light, anchor, fender holders
-Shrink wrap ($500 bones up here)
-Park on AF Base RV/Boat storage lot for the winter
-Start researching, planning & preparing for spring modifications and Launch
Attached Thumbnails
Wideload_2017.jpg   2017_Waxing_2.jpg   2017_Shrink Wrap_2.jpg   2017_Shrink Wrap_3.jpg   2017_Shrink Wrap_4.jpg  

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Old 10-25-2017, 12:21 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRiver View Post
Haul-out and winterizing are necessary evils up here in the Inland Empire. We have an annual Oktoberfest on the lake the 1st weekend in October and then the mass exodus happens. This year the wife and I stay in for one last quite weekend after most had hauled out. The marina was creepy quite.

Steps to put her away for the winter:
-Walk-around inspection at ramp
-Pump-out, drain H20 and fresh water washdown
-Wax (#50 Cleaner/Wax) from rub rail down to paint (I use a rotary mach w/ black foam 6" pad)
-PINK the holding tanks
-Pump, change & replace eng oil & filter
-Pump the PINK thu the block & fog her till she stops
-Drain the block, drop the manifold hoses
-Replace the impeller (every 3yr)
-Fog the plugs
-Drain, inspect & replace drive lube
-Remove topside obstructions; anchor light, anchor, fender holders
-Shrink wrap ($500 bones up here)
-Park on AF Base RV/Boat storage lot for the winter
-Start researching, planning & preparing for spring modifications and Launch
Is this an MPI or carb engine? If MPI then the fuel system is not being fully addressed. On MPI a portable gas can containing fuel, oil, and stabilizer are swapped out for the main tank, this coats the inside of the injectors with oil and stabilizer.

Why fog the plugs? Fogging the engine does this.
Did you add stabilizer to the fuel tank?
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:07 PM   #50
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Sad day indeed! Will pull boat Fri afternoon. Already winterized holding tank. Will change vital fluids and pickle block with pink stuff and fog engine. Treated fuel last week and most gear already home. Maybe one last ride if weather nice. Luckily have teenage son to climb into bilge to drain block. Then can't wait to break out my new ultra feed sewing machine to re doo interior cushions and make a mooring cover.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:56 AM   #51
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Great Question Mike,
My 7.4L is carbureted and I left out a couple of steps, I stabilized the remaining 3 gals of lake fuel prior to adding PINK and fogging the engine until it stalled out. Then I topped of the tank and added more stabilizer prior to the shrink wrap going on.

I have never actually removed the plugs and sprayed fogging oil into the plug wells. I always thought fogging the engine down and adding stabilizer to the fuel protected the inside of the engine and cylinder walls.
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Old 10-26-2017, 03:13 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by MoonRiver View Post
Great Question Mike,
My 7.4L is carbureted and I left out a couple of steps, I stabilized the remaining 3 gals of lake fuel prior to adding PINK and fogging the engine until it stalled out. Then I topped of the tank and added more stabilizer prior to the shrink wrap going on.

I have never actually removed the plugs and sprayed fogging oil into the plug wells. I always thought fogging the engine down and adding stabilizer to the fuel protected the inside of the engine and cylinder walls.
Yep what you did is good. No need to fog plugs the fogging oil is to coat valves and cylinder walls.
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:17 AM   #53
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Thanks, I do have another question concerning the fuel filter. I typically leave the old filter on until spring and then put fresh fuel in a new filter and replace prior to starting for the first time. I have never had a problem doing it this way, but I have heard and read that many owners/ boat mech replace the fuel filter during winterizing. Thoughts?

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Old 10-26-2017, 12:24 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRiver View Post
Thanks, I do have another question concerning the fuel filter. I typically leave the old filter on until spring and then put fresh fuel in a new filter and replace prior to starting for the first time. I have never had a problem doing it this way, but I have heard and read that many owners/ boat mech replace the fuel filter during winterizing. Thoughts?

Doug
I think either way is ok but I replace mine when I winterize. You said you topped off the fuel tank so changing it in the spring with fresh fuel in it really does nothing. Since you have already winterized I would just wait till spring.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:31 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRiver View Post
Thanks, I do have another question concerning the fuel filter. I typically leave the old filter on until spring and then put fresh fuel in a new filter and replace prior to starting for the first time. I have never had a problem doing it this way, but I have heard and read that many owners/ boat mech replace the fuel filter during winterizing. Thoughts?
I think as long as you add stabilizer to the fuel and run enough to get it into the fuel filter and lines, I think it is fine to do either. I typically do mine in the fall at the same time as my oil and oil filter change. If there is any water in there, I want it out of there prior to storage.
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:12 AM   #56
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Getting the water out of the system is the key. I guess I have always thought water and other particles would settle in the fuel filter over the winter. Therefore replacing the filter in the spring would help remove those elements. I could be crazy, but it has served me well over my boating years.
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