Going to look at a 1900SC this weekend. - Maxum Boat Owners Club

bicklebok · 06-02-2016, 08:01 PM

After a lot of looking, I have my hopes up that this 2000 model will be the one.
It has the 5.0 Mercruiser with Alpha One outdrive. Im going to look at it Saturday.

I have been doing some research and it looks like I need to look for rotten wood. I also read the Alpha One was a little weaker that the Bravo. Should be really concerned with the Alpha One mated to the 5.0?

The price is more than I want to spend to buy a used boat, but their price on this boat seems awfully fair.

mmwjr · 06-02-2016, 10:52 PM

That engine and drive are no issue expecially with that size boat.

bicklebok · 06-03-2016, 01:21 AM

Thank you for the advice! I will post back once I look at it.

I dont have much experience with outdrives other than workimg on an old OMC years ago. But I can at least see how the gear oil looks when I look it over.

mmwjr · 06-03-2016, 02:49 AM

If you have an IR they sensor I would take reading of the engine and exhaust to look for hot spots which would be a sign of blockages in the cooling system.

bicklebok · 06-05-2016, 05:12 PM

We went to look at the boat yesterday. I feel like the seller was a little dishonest. He had installed a new fuel pump which he said was a reduced flow for "better mileage".

The boat bogged and would hardly plane off with 3 of us in it. I was very dissapointed but I saw a lot of potential in this boat

This morning I made a much lower offer and they took it.

Do I need to install an OEM fuel pump or something with the same flow?

Im also gonna pull the carb and see if it needs rebuilding.

Kind of a scary purchase getting this boat, but I believe if the fuel delivery gets straightend out it will make a good boat. All else seemed fine with the floors and foot, and it also comes with the snap on canvas for a full cab enclosure.

Any advice is welcome. Thank you!

mmwjr · 06-05-2016, 05:58 PM

I would start by performing a compression test before putting any money into it. The test should be performed with all spark plugs removed.

A bad cylinder or two will result in low power as you describe.

Also what type of fuel pump did he put on?

bicklebok · 06-05-2016, 08:44 PM

Im not sure what type of pump he put on it. He said when he looked it up it showed the 4.3 and 5.0 used the same electric pump. I will research it tonight.

I will check the compression as soon as I have the time to work on it. Fingers crossed on that!

Looks like I will need a prop as well. Any recommendations and a good source? And for a fuel pump as well?

mmwjr · 06-05-2016, 10:41 PM

Newer Vortec engines use an electric fuel pump, being a 2000 it should have had an electric to start with.

IMO BS on the fuel savings, cutting back on flow or pressure will starve the engine and impact performance.

Plenty of on line places to get parts, never had any issues with a source yet so shop for price.

bicklebok · 06-06-2016, 12:24 AM

Mike, thank you for all the advice. Can you give me a little more help until I get my feet wet with a good source for parts? Im not going to buy a fuel pump and slap on it and hope it fixes it, but Im planning ahead on parts in case I need them. The fuel pump part number is 861155A3. Would I need to buy a fuel pump form an online marine store(approx $220) or could I buy a knock off ebay equivalant for $140?

mmwjr · 06-06-2016, 03:29 AM

You should be able to get the pump on eBay, Amazon, ebasic power, Michigan motorz, west marine, gotomarine, or a local Mercruiser dealer. Just to name a few.

I would run a pressure test on the fuel pump before replacing it. Should be 6-7 psi for a carb engine.

ss3964spd · 06-06-2016, 04:31 PM

Definitely BS on the fuel pump, but the seller perhaps just doesn't know. the bog symptom can be caused by a number of simple things; bad accelerator pump in the carb or maybe the timing is off, even fouled plugs. Could also be something more serious.

As Mike said do a compression test as a first step. While you have all the plugs out inspect each; all should be somewhat uniform in color and deposits. If any are obviously different then the cylinder it came out of needs to be scrutinized.

bicklebok · 06-06-2016, 09:14 PM

Thanks for the input guys!

Heres what I have so far:
Checked the compression on the right side cylinders. They were between 160-170. They would leak down to about 150 after a minute or so.
Engine oil is nice and clean, even after being run quite a bit.
Changed the water fuel filter.
Verified accelerator pump is working. Engine runs smoothly when it runs. No misses or backfires or stumbles between cylinders. Plugs look decent- no signs of oil.

The owner installed a pump bulb between the tank and the water fuel seperator. I believe he was using this to help compensate for it starving for fuel, or at least the symptom of starving for fuel.

Im going to keep checking all the simple things. Is it possible to pick up tube in the tank has a problem?

Any other suggestions are welcome!

When I get on my computer later I will post some pics. And thanks again!

Oh, is there any way to rev the engine without engaging the foot? Other than takimg the throttle linkage loose? I havent had an inboard outboard in many years, so I know very little about the controls.

mmwjr · 06-06-2016, 11:04 PM

Remove the pump bulb, does belong or help anything.

Check the anti-siphion valve in the tank it check ball may not be opening all the way.

bicklebok · 06-07-2016, 12:42 AM

Heres what I have next:

I disconnected the line from the tank and hooked a temporary hose to it and sucked on it with my mouth. It was difficult to pull fuel up with my mouth and made a strange noise when I sucked. Tomorrow I will pull that fuel intake out and look at it.

In the meantime, I was going to hook fuel directly to a gas can and see if the engine would run ok that way. Now the fuel pump wont run! Is there a relay for the fuel pump? If so, where would I look to find it? Been searching on line for an answer but havent found one yet. Thanks again

mmwjr · 06-07-2016, 01:53 AM

If it using the OEM set up the electric pump gets power from the starter soleniod when cranking and once started there is a oil pressure switch that provides the power.

This is a CG regulation so that if the engine dies the power is removed from the fuel pump as the oil pressure is zero.

bicklebok · 06-07-2016, 02:30 AM

Thank you again mm. Im going to make sure I havent knocked a wire loose somewhere. Its unlikely the fuel pump has went out.

bicklebok · 06-08-2016, 02:13 AM

Mm, i took out that pump bulb and ran a hose straight to a gas can and ran somejumpers to the fuel pump. It would not even pick fuel up. And I verified there are no restrictions in the line. Is it possible for a fuel pump to become weak from abuse?

Also, I took the anti siphon valve out to check it. I believe its bad because it takes quite a bit of suction with my mouth. Its a cheap part so I went ahead and ordered one.

Last, I am still not getting fire to the fuel pump when i turn the switch on. It was working when i first got the boat and now its not. I checked for loose wires. I understand how it works with ignition first then goes to oil pressure, but i dont know how to troubleshoot. Can you please give me some pointers?

mmwjr · 06-08-2016, 02:18 AM

With this test are you sure the pump is actually running, should hear a mild hum?

I will provide a wiring diagram and some instructions tomorrow. But to start try measuring for 12V at the fuel pump connector while the key is in the crank, start position.

Oh yea call me Mike

bicklebok · 06-08-2016, 02:50 AM

Ok Mike!

I know the fuel pump was running because I ran wires straight from the battery to the fuel pump. I could hear it running.

Thank you for all the help Mike!

rcboats1 · 06-08-2016, 03:11 AM

Your a good man Mike. If I ever get to Maryland I would be honored to buy you an adult beverage.