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06-25-2016, 02:39 PM
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#61
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bicklebok
Im very aggrevated about my eyes. Im 52 now, and cant see worth a crap working on small parts.
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Welcome to my world. 3, THREE pairs of glasses; 1 for reading and close up work, another for the computer, and yet another for distance. None are very strong but all are necessary except the distance - I can get by without those.
Take and post pics of that carb please, I wanna see it.
Dan
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06-25-2016, 05:03 PM
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#62
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Welcome to my world. 3, THREE pairs of glasses; 1 for reading and close up work, another for the computer, and yet another for distance. None are very strong but all are necessary except the distance - I can get by without those.
Take and post pics of that carb please, I wanna see it.
Dan
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At 55 I'm right there with you guys.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-25-2016, 06:35 PM
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#63
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Hey Dan, I got the carb back together and so far so good with the flooding. I let it run about 5 minutes and revved the engine and it did fine except there may be a little hesitation. Im sure the real test will be when it gets a load on the engine.
I need to read how to fine tune the carb and look up idle speed. I had to idle it down some when it was running but I dont kmow what its supposed to be at.
Another problem was the Clymer manual was telling me to measure float drop one way, and the carb kit instructions another way.
Not sure I can post a pic of the carb from my phone, so I may have to post it tonight from my computer.
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06-25-2016, 08:52 PM
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#64
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Hesitation (I assume you mean when revving the engine in neutral) can be caused by numerous things, bust most likely is either the accel pump or timing. Since you probably replaced the accel pump in the carb when you did the rebuild I'll guess the ignition timing is off. Determine which ignition system you have then look up the procedures on how to set the timing. Can't be done without a timing light. Also make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. You might also pull a couple of spark plugs, one from each side, and have a look at them. With all the fuel you've been dumping into the engine they might well be fouled.
I'd guess the warm idle for that engine is probably 6 or 700 RPM. I imagine you could google something like "Rochester marine 2 barrel float adjustment", or even better if you have the carb model number.
Wait - did it myself. Didn't find all that much on the float adjustment but did find this. Good reading for ya, especially see the bit about the adjustable accel pump. http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/d...ve/mercarb.pdf
There are probably similar documents for timing and such.
No worries about the photos, was really just curious.
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06-25-2016, 10:26 PM
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#65
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Go to the documents tab of this site to get the Merc manual fir your engine and drive.
Idle is either 550 or 650 rpm don't recall.
When setting the timing of the Thunderboly V you need to ground a wire (see manual) to set base timing the computer takes care of the advance timing.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-25-2016, 10:46 PM
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#66
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Hey Mike and Dan, lets sidetrack away from the timing for a sec to address a new problem i have please.
I was letting the engine idle for a lengthy period and eventually it shut off. I discovered the fuel pump was not pumping. So i jumped the wires at the oil sending unit(purple and purple yellow) and when i turned the switch on(not start) the fuel pump started running.
I had already bought a new oil sendind unit but i was holding off on replacing it cuz its hard to access. Well, I went ahead and changed it. It has 3 terminals and my old unit has 2. Also, i have another sending unit coming off the side with a blue wire running to it. Is it for the gauge on the dash?
When i first put on the unit it wouldnt allow the fuel pump to stay running, so i swapped one terminal to the extra terminal on the sending unit and it started working. Is this ok?
Im gonna post a few pics in just a bit. Thanks you again for all the help!
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06-25-2016, 10:53 PM
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#67
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Heres a pic of the carb and a couple of pics of the oil sending unit.
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06-25-2016, 11:32 PM
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#68
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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The new unit is universal and has normally open and normally closed and a common. You need to connect to the common and NO. The NO closes when oil pressure exists.
The bell shaped thing is the oil pressure sender for the helm gauge.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-25-2016, 11:55 PM
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#69
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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So its likely i have it hooked up correct right? I guess i could test it with a multimeter to be sure.
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06-26-2016, 12:20 AM
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#70
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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I probably havent deacribed how well its running simce I tebuilt the carb. It idles smooth and accelerates good. I had the throttle linkage disconnected from the controls when I was operating the thottle. Im not even really sure it has hesitation. Could have been my inagination because if it does have hesitation its very little. It will rev quickly. I do know I need to check the timing sometime soon though.
Im still puzzled why it would run 5 minutes then all of a sudden have a problem with the oil pressure unit. Anyway, tomorrow Im gonna let it run a bit and if all seems well we will put it in the water and go for a short spin close to the dock. I have alreay warned my wife that its gonna take me a bit to get it in good shape and that we could break down. That way, she wont mind helping me paddle back to the dock. LoL
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06-26-2016, 04:06 AM
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#71
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bicklebok
So its likely i have it hooked up correct right? I guess i could test it with a multimeter to be sure.
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Well if it stays running you probably got it correct.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-26-2016, 03:16 PM
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#72
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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If you did anything to the distributor that changed its position you really should time the engine first before you put a load on it. If you are at all skeptical about the boats history, check the timing. Pre ignition is a bad thing and won't really show up until there's a load on it.
Glad the carb rebuild made such a significant difference. I applaud you for ripping off all the previous owners band aids and putting things right.
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06-26-2016, 09:03 PM
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#73
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Thanks SS. Just read your post and Im already back from the river. We put it in the water and ran it about 15 minutes. It planes out pretty good but i heard a little pinging under heavy load.
I got it up to 40 mph and it was doing fine. It shut off once as I was coming back down to idle, but started back up fine.
Seeing the grin on my wifes face was worth every dime I spent, and every drop of sweat I have invested in this thing!
I need to look up how to check the timing. I have a timing light but I have bever used one. LoL
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06-26-2016, 09:05 PM
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#74
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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One other thing. I guess now I need to get my fuel gauge working.
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06-26-2016, 10:03 PM
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#75
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Heres a pic from the test ride
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06-26-2016, 11:00 PM
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#76
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Take care of that timing ASAP otherwise you will damage the engine if she is pinging under load.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-27-2016, 12:05 AM
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#77
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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Will do Mike. I downloaded a manual from the documents page and have been reading how to adjust it. I think I know which terminal to connect to for base timing-there is a lead coming off the harness near the fuel pump thats not connected to anything and has a cap on it.
The manual didnt tell me what to set the timing to. I will have to look that up.
I may have to find a video on all this because Im sure I will be lost when I try to adjust the timing
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06-27-2016, 03:45 PM
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#78
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bicklebok
Seeing the grin on my wifes face was worth every dime I spent, and every drop of sweat I have invested in this thing!
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Priorities? Yeah, they're in order.
I'm pretty certain the base timing on that thing is 10* BTDC, but do verify.
Don't know what your boating experience is, but be certain to avoid just chopping the throttle while at speed. When you're on plane the boat is actually "pulling" a lot of water behind it. Slowing down abruptly allows that wall of water to catch up with the back of the boat and could have enough force to push back up through the exhaust and into the engine resulting in a hydrolock and really ruining your day.
Nice wake pic. What river?
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06-27-2016, 03:57 PM
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#79
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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We were on the Alabama River. We live across the street from Gunter Hill Campground in Montgomery, AL. Its a really nice Corps of Engineer campground.
Im not new to boats but I am new to more detailed mechanic work. My dad was a mechanic and he always handled the more detailed mechanic work for me. He died 2 years ago. After he died I really took a liking to working on engines and now Im tryimg to learn.
He had an old 66 Rancheo that had sat in his shop 10 years. Because it was his, its priceless to me! So I got it running about 6 months ago.
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06-28-2016, 01:26 PM
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#80
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 65
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I cant thank you enough for all the help Dan and Mike! I really appreciate you guys taking time out of your life to get on this forum and help me and others!
Im going to try and set the timing sometime this week.
WOuld either of you have experience in testing the fuel gauge? Mine has a Wema Systems fuel sending unit. Couldnt I test it by pulling it out and moving the float while measuring for the OHMS to change?
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