Going to look at a 1900SC this weekend. - Page 3 - Maxum Boat Owners Club

bicklebok · 06-21-2016, 05:15 PM

I did rcboats. It looks like a different starter was put on the boat and they left the purple yellow wire disconnected.

Is there any way to replace the starter without removing the engine or jacking it up? Or would you be familiar enough with this model boat to know?

mmwjr · 06-21-2016, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicklebok

Just a quick update:

Installed OEM fuel lines and water pump yesterday from the water/fuel separator to the carb. Hoping to fire it up this afternoon to see if its fixed.

I still have the issue with the starter solenoid not having enough terminals for the purple/yellow wire, but Im gonna leave that problem be for now because I have no idea how to get to the starter to replace it. Looks like it would be quite a job due to limited access.

Sometimes it helps to remove the exhaust manifold to gain access to the starter

rcboats1 · 06-21-2016, 05:29 PM

As Mike says, remove the exhaust manifold. You will still need to work by braille some, but you can do it without taking the motor out.

bicklebok · 06-21-2016, 05:43 PM

Thanks RC and Mike!! I have already had to use some braille working on this boat, so Im getting decent at it. LOL! That gives me some hope that it wont be such a nightmare.

I have never worked on anything that uses star head bolts. Any advice on a kit to get that covers the sizes I would need? I saw a star head somewhere(maybe the manifold?) that was rather large.

bicklebok · 06-22-2016, 01:26 AM

I got the fuel pump installed today and it fired up. Now a new problem.

Its running way to rich. At higher rpm its fine, but at idle or close to idle it starts to flood out. Once I shut the engine off, fuel continues to pour into the carb for a few seconds.

Do either of you know the base mixture setting? Im thinking it may be way out of adjustment due to the PO adjusting for the piece of crap fuel pump he installed.

It's weird that it idled fine with the crappy fuel pump the previous owner used, but starved for fuel at higher rpm. Now I have the opposite problem

And it looks like I may need to rebuild the carb and set the float huh?

Any advice is welcome!

mmwjr · 06-22-2016, 03:13 AM

Turn mixture screws all the way in but till they just stop, then turn them out 2 1/2 turns.

Floats may be set high, leaking needle valve, ...

ss3964spd · 06-22-2016, 03:00 PM

If you see fuel coming out of the carb after the fuel pump is shut down you def have a carb problem, likely the float(s). If the float/needle/seat are bad then gas will be coming out of the carb whenever the fuel pump is running, regardless of it the engine is running.

When you say fuel continues to "pour" into the carb...can you be more specific? I mean, "pouring" suggest a LOT of gas to me. Also, can you see where the gas is coming from, like the accel pump discharge nozzles?

Did any specifications come with the new fuel pump, like what its output pressure is?

bicklebok · 06-22-2016, 11:46 PM

Thanks for the help SS. It looks like the fuel is coming from the accelerator pump nozzles. I would say its a lot of fuel. Enough to cover the throttle plates(? Dont know the term) and flood the cylinders

I have installed an OEM pump which is replacing the cheap looking all purpose fuel pump they had on it. So, mine is low pressure as well.

They had the idle mixture screw 3 1/2 turns out. I put it at 2 turns and it didnt help.

I have the carb off now. The needle seat seems to be working. I ordered a kit, but if I can learn how to adjust the float level I will set it and put it back on the boat to try it.

Im almost thinking they changed the idle mixture and float setting to try and compensate for the cheap fuel pump they installed that struggled to keep fuel to the engine. Thats just a hunch. In reality, Im just trying to learn through the advice of you wonderful guys and by reading.

bicklebok · 06-23-2016, 01:33 AM

I just received a Clymer manual a few days ago. I looked in the manual and it shows how to measure the float settings. Maybe tomorrow i can measure the settings and get back to you guys.

I have noticed already that the carb is missing the gasket that connects the upper to lower half of the carb.

mmwjr · 06-23-2016, 01:59 AM

Sounds like it just needs a total rebuild.

bicklebok · 06-23-2016, 02:05 AM

I believe youre right Mike! Well, i would rather get it right before I get on the water. Looks like that will be at least another week. Glad my wife is patient!

ss3964spd · 06-23-2016, 01:30 PM

Don't get too hung up on the idle mixture screws at this point, as they become irrelevant past 1500 RPM or so once the carb transitions from the idle circuit to the off-idle and primary circuits. Once into the primary circuit the mixture screws could be set anywhere and have no effect, and they are not playing a role in the fuel dribbling.

If you are seeing fuel dribbling out from the accel pump boosters/nozzles (or anywhere else on the carb) it definitely means the fuel inlet needle and seat are not able to control the fuel pressure/flow from the pump. So, either the needle and seat are bad, the float is set too high, the float isn't actually floating anymore, or the pressure from the pump is too high - overcoming the design limit of the float/needle/seat.

Be sure you replace the float.

bicklebok · 06-24-2016, 01:04 PM

Thanks for the help SS. And Mike.

I ordered a new float and carb kit.

In the meantime I flipped the top of the carb over. In the rest position upside down, the float is laying flat against the carb top. Im pretty sure this is incorrect and allowing too much fuel in the float bowl.

I plan to measure it this afternoon if I can find a decent ruler.

mmwjr · 06-24-2016, 01:38 PM

Yep the top of the float should be parallel to the top of the carb in this position.

That is speaking in rough terms.

bicklebok · 06-24-2016, 02:11 PM

Thanks Mike. I really appreciate all the help you have given me. And SS as well!

ss3964spd · 06-24-2016, 03:19 PM

I think I missed what carb you have but the rebuild kit will/should have instructions on how to set the float. When you do adjust it err just a bit to the conservative side.

bicklebok · 06-24-2016, 05:36 PM

I believe it's the Mercruiser/Rochester (2bbl) with 1 idle mixture screw.

And I will take your advice on being conservative SS!

ss3964spd · 06-24-2016, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicklebok

I believe it's the Mercruiser/Rochester (2bbl) with 1 idle mixture screw.

I'd think a 2 bbl would have 2 idle mixture screws, but I don't know those carbs at all.

I suggested conservative with the float setting because you don't want to take the thing apart again, and even if the float is a little low the engine won't care. When you get into the carb make sure you compare the old float to the new, they should match in size and shape, but not necessarily material.

Dan

rcboats1 · 06-25-2016, 01:12 AM

The 2bbl only has 1 mixture screw.
If your float hits the body of the carb top when you turn it upside down it is adjusted VERY wrong. It can't close the needle and seat if it is hitting and that will cause the leaking you are describing.

bicklebok · 06-25-2016, 01:44 AM

Thanks Dan and Rc. The kit came today so I started installing it. Unfortunately the float wont be here for a few days so Im gonna go ahead and use the old float since it looks good and doesnt show signs of being gas logged. Hope I dont regret that.

I was trying to keep the 2 linkages hooked to at least one side of the carb so it wouldnt be so difficult to figure out goimg back together, but they fell off the other side of the carb as I was working. I took some pics before I got started, so hopefully I can figure it out.

Im very aggrevated about my eyes. Im 52 now, and cant see worth a crap working on small parts. I could have had corrected surgery to get better eye sight, but no, I had to buy a boat! LoL