Electric draw

[Andyocala]

Hi all, first time boat owner, it's a 2003 2100sr.
It was sitting for a while, there is an electric draw and was trying to figure it out , does anyone has a wiring schematics for this boat, that will help.
Thanks Andy

[shrew]

Is there a battery charger? Is it running while the boat is sitting? Do you have flooded batteries? FLA batteries lose charge over time.

Check your bilge pumps as well. If they are electronic 'auto-sensing' they will need to power on every minute or so to check for water. That is the most common culprit. Is the memory for the stereo hard-wired to the battery? Are there any other devices hard-wired to the battery that doesn't have a dedicated switch? Some items have small amounts of draw, even when off.

[jrsick]

There are manuals for each engine in the documents section.
Most likely there have been additions and modifications to your electrical system over time. First indication of additions is wires connected directly to your battery terminals. I would check the unknown wires for parasitic draw first.
Your fuse panel is going to be under helm, somewhere near the steering wheel.

[mmwjr]

I would use a current meter then remove one fuse at a time until the current draw goes away. Now you know the source.

[Andyocala]

Thanks for all the info. I was feeling like a kid with a new toy but now I'm feeling like a kid with a shitty diaper. But I'll get thru it .
I'm seeing a few wires pulled out behind the guages can anyone send me a pic of there wiring being the guages or how to figure out what goes where. Thanks

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Andyocala

Thanks for all the info. I was feeling like a kid with a new toy but now I'm feeling like a kid with a shitty diaper. But I'll get thru it .
I'm seeing a few wires pulled out behind the guages can anyone send me a pic of there wiring being the guages or how to figure out what goes where. Thanks

It would be easier if you post a picture of your wiring

[Andyocala]

Ok, new to the site , will figure out how to upload the pic

[mmwjr]

Use the paper clip to upload

[Andyocala]

How stupid am I, lol , I'll take some pics in morning
Thanks again

[Andyocala]

There should be couple pics of the back of guages

[mmwjr]

The yellow wire are negativesand might be spares in the harness. Is anything not working on the gauges?

[Andyocala]

No yellow wire is out it's wire # 7, 8 and 4
I think like 2 guages not working , the tac and oil gauge

[jrsick]

For the tach, the three wire harness will pull straight off. I recommend pulling the harness off, then checking the dial setting to ensure it is correct for your engine.
Wire-brush the terminals to clean them, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, then push the harness back on.
For oil pressure, can you locate the oil pressure sender on the engine? I believe there is a single purple wire connected to it via a push on harness.
Do you have a multimeter and a jumper wire? Also, have you downloaded the service manual for your engine?

[mmwjr]

The large gauge on the right in the picture looks to be the speedometer as the center is the air tube. This is also where the wires appear to be disconnected. Are there gauges with exposed terminals where the wires could go? If so post a close up of them.

[Baby Blue]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

I would use a current meter then remove one fuse at a time until the current draw goes away. Now you know the source.

This is the best advise on pin pointing a parasitic draw.

[jrsick]

Originally Posted by Baby Blue

This is the best advise on pin pointing a parasitic draw.

Yes, and you can speed this up by checking for current draw on the fuses and only pulling the ones that show a draw.
Set your multimeter on a low DC setting (i.e. 150mv) and touch a lead to each probe point on a fuse. The meter will initially register a voltage, then will go to zero if there is no current on the fuse. If the meter registers a value after it has settled then there is current going over that fuse. No need to pull a fuse with zero current.
All fuses have probe points in the back. These are the small metal slits on each side of the fuse.
Make sure your battery is charged to at least 12.6V to get a good test.
You may have a higher end autoranging meter. Just set these to DC.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Andyocala

No yellow wire is out it's wire # 7, 8 and 4
I think like 2 guages not working , the tac and oil gauge

Looking today on my PC instead of my iPad the # 7 and 8 wires look like the power for the speedometer light. #8 should be 12V and #7 (yellow) return. There are two blade terminals on the back of the speedometer on either side of the bulb socket.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by jrsick

For the tach, the three wire harness will pull straight off. I recommend pulling the harness off, then checking the dial setting to ensure it is correct for your engine.
Wire-brush the terminals to clean them, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, then push the harness back on.
For oil pressure, can you locate the oil pressure sender on the engine? I believe there is a single purple wire connected to it via a push on harness.
Do you have a multimeter and a jumper wire? Also, have you downloaded the service manual for your engine?

I agree with jr the tach is know for corrosion on its terminals or the select switch causing issues.

[shrew]

Ugg. Someone went to Home Depot, then did a bunch of really bad DIY on your electrical system. You can tell by the blue blade connectors. Those are not from factory. They're not bad, just evidence that someone has been there doing extensive work.

Those twist connectors need to go immediately. That is not to ABYC code at all. You should be using inline crimp connectors to but 12v wires together. I prefer shrink connectors properly crimped.

[gmc60]

Maybe if you have a mercath sys they draw rite off the batt