The hardest part about moving this one will be removing the base screws due to access. A lot of folks mount the pump onto a rectangular aluminum plate so the can slide the pump under the engine but screw it down where there’s access.
The pump is held in by screws to the hull in the black baseplate. The actual motor/pump impeller (the black top part) can be removed by turning a bit and it will lift out for cleaning or replacement.
If the pump is in working condition and all you want is to add the auto ability, leave the pump and install the float switch in the circuit. No need to swap the pump to get auto capability.
+1 on both previous comments. As mmwjr stated, getting to the base screws can be difficult. If you take them out, make sure you clean around the holes and apply some good epoxy or at least some 5200 so bilge water doesnt begin to seep into the hull.
+1 on both previous comments. As mmwjr stated, getting to the base screws can be difficult. If you take them out, make sure you clean around the holes and apply some good epoxy or at least some 5200 so bilge water doesnt begin to seep into the hull.
Bilge Pump Question
Linear Mode
