Battery and Cup holder latch

[EdW]

Few questions about 2000 Maxum 2100SR that I just purchased.
I'm looking for the latch that holds the engine compt. door closed. It's the small door that also holds the cup holders. It's actually not the latch that's broken, but the "anchor" that the latch will grab to hold the door closed.
Next, I have 2 batteries with a shut off switch. What wires go on to what batteries. Maybe a wiring diagram for this.
Thanks in advance!

[jnajera]

I have the same question regarding the two batteries. does somebody knows?

[mmwjr]

Welcome aboard gents can you post some pictures of what you are refering to?

[shrew]

It would be easier to have dedicated thread per problem. Pictures of the latch would be helpful. Most hatches don't have latches.

The battery negatives get connected together. The positive from on battery goes to post #1 on the switch. The positive from the other battery goes to post #2 on the switch.

Which ever position the switch is turned to, that the battery which is active.

[EdW]

thanks for the reply. i'm trying to find a link to attach a picture that I took. in the meantime, i'm aware of how the batteries attach to the switch. i'm just wondering what battery should feed what. should bilge pump be only thing dedicated to one battery? example.... bilge pump on battery 1 and everything else on battery 2?

[EdW]

here is the latch photo requested. hope it appears.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by EdW

thanks for the reply. i'm trying to find a link to attach a picture that I took. in the meantime, i'm aware of how the batteries attach to the switch. i'm just wondering what battery should feed what. should bilge pump be only thing dedicated to one battery? example.... bilge pump on battery 1 and everything else on battery 2?

Either battery should be set up to be able to start the engine. Batt 1 is what the bilge pump float should be wired to. What other systems are on the boat? In a cruiser Batt 2 typically is the house battery but I don't think yours is that complicated.

[ss3964spd]

What's the general consensus on things like the drive trim and trim tab's?

In my case there isn't enough room on the Com stud of the battery switch to accommodate the dedicated connections for all the items that need to be powered in the event one battery goes away; engine, drive trim, trim tabs, bilge pump(s). Nor would I want to stack 4 connections on the stud, seems doing so would increase the potential for them working loose.

Those with factory installed dual battery set ups, how are those connections handled?

[EdW]

I'm guessing, and correct me if I'm wrong, that the bilge pump is the only thing that I want "on" while the boat is docked. So 1 battery dedicated to bilge pump and the other battery for everything else?

[shrew]

I rewired mine a bit. Everyone runs from the battery switch, including the starter and the bilge pumps. I have a starter battery on post #1, and I have 2 much larger deep cycle batteries wired in parallel on Post #2. Even when I'm in the marina sitting on shore power, then boat in on the house bank. It's a larger bank in case we loose power. I never turn the switch to OFF unless I'm doing work on the 12v system or the boat in on the hard.

I use a positive power post. The only thing on the battery posts is the connections to each other and the connections to the switch.

[mmwjr]

Mine came with a few lugs going to the batteries, the way I handled it was to use the threaded studs with nuts only for the heavy battery cables. I then installed post converters that mount onto the car like post of the battery, these have threaded studs similar to what's on the battery and I install the lower power items such as bilge pump and charger wires on them.