A picture tells a story.

[Mr Hemi]

I had my impellor replaced 2 years ago.
But did he???

My boat runs around 185-190.
Been hunting down this elevated temperature for a couple years now, changed out thermostat etc.

Having a aftermarket water pump worriers me also. {DJ PUMP brand}.???
Ordered a New OEM pump and pulley with New Impellor.
Glad I got a good price on my boat cause it looks like its going to need some serious OEM love.

Even though its going to cost me $1000:00 dollars to replace, finding a possible cure for my boat running warm is priceless.
Sometimes you just got to do the stuff yourself and make sure its done correctly.

[Mr Hemi]

Impellor looks bad???.

[mmwjr]

With the setthe vanes have I would say it’s more than 2 years old.

[shrew]

The only way to really get a feel is...

1) How pliable is the old impeller vanes are?

2) Whether you're seeing any cracking where the vanes bend over and/or where the vanes meet the hub.

Impellors should be changed every other season anyway.

[shrew]

IF you're chasing a heat issue, I would look very close at how old the manifolds and risers are.

The next place I would look is the hose passing through the transom assembly. Sometimes the aluminum corrosion 'grows' and crushes the intake hose, reducing raw water supply to the pump.

[Mr Hemi]

Replaced manifolds and risers last year, thermostat also.
Checked flappers were still present in exhaust as well.

Going to do bellows, replace all hoses etc, lower end seal etc next year, ran out of money with what I am doing this year.

But looking at the impellor, and how it jammed itself up when rotating the pump, even in water makes me thing a new mercury waterpump and new impellor is going to help with eliminating the problem???
I am likely to replace the 2 hoses going into waterpump, while I have it apart also.
Thanks for your suggestions.
P.S.
I remember changing the 1 manifold while on water, probably the hardest thing I have ever done in my life.
Cheers.

[Mr Hemi]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

With the setthe vanes have I would say it’s more than 2 years old.

My Thoughts also.

Even when it was it a bucket of water, turning the water pump by hand, you could feel it jamming up.
If nothing else a New OEM waterpump and new impellor will help.

Doing hoses, thermosate and belt while I am at it.
Thanks Grant.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Mr Hemi

My Thoughts also.

Even when it was it a bucket of water, turning the water pump by hand, you could feel it jamming up.
If nothing else a New OEM waterpump and new impellor will help.

Doing hoses, thermosate and belt while I am at it.
Thanks Grant.

As Shrew mentioned Bravos are know for the transom assembly water hose getting clogged with marine growth causing overheating. You can perform a water flow test per the Mercruiser Bravo manual to check this out.

[Mr Hemi]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

As Shrew mentioned Bravos are know for the transom assembly water hose getting clogged with marine growth causing overheating. You can perform a water flow test per the Mercruiser Bravo manual to check this out.

I have read about it, once I replace my impellor and waterpump I will see how much flow I get.

I read about Bravoitis or something like that, and I am considering doing a transom setup also, to replace exisiting hose, and maybe a cooler for the drive???.still looking into options for next year redo.
Thanks again. Cheers.,

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Mr Hemi

I have read about it, once I replace my impellor and waterpump I will see how much flow I get.

I read about Bravoitis or something like that, and I am considering doing a transom setup also, to replace exisiting hose, and maybe a cooler for the drive???.still looking into options for next year redo.
Thanks again. Cheers.,

Grant, there is no cooler in the drive but you will have a power steering cooler which is typically located on the back of the engine. I forgot which engine you have and if it has the cool fuel system for EFI which can also get blockage but that wouldn’t impact engine cooling.

[shrew]

It's supposed to be compressed. But the vanes should also be able to open enough to remain in contact with the cylinder walls.

[Mr Hemi]

Originally Posted by shrew

It's supposed to be compressed. But the vanes should also be able to open enough to remain in contact with the cylinder walls.

Thats my thought also.
If not how can it move water effeicently.
Thanks.

[mmwjr]

When I first looked at the picture I didn’t think the vanes on one side were in contact with the housing however looking today I see they are. I don’t think this is the source of you issue but it should be replaced every two years anyway.

[Mr Hemi]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

When I first looked at the picture I didn’t think the vanes on one side were in contact with the housing however looking today I see they are. I don’t think this is the source of you issue but it should be replaced every two years anyway.

I dont think they are even close to the sides.
When I run water in the pump and turn it by hand, it barely turns.
when I turn it, it turns 1/2 turn, then grabs hard, then turns 1/2 turn grabs hard.

it might not be the problem, but its not the solution. LOL.

I am replacing thermostat and sender etc, new hoses, new Bravo 3 carrier and seals, and Mercury OEM waterpump.: I will do a blockoff plate on transom and reroute cooler to inside of boat.

I have a a/c going through bottom of boat with pickup and all hoses, so i think it should be a pretty easy mod.
get rid of Bravitis or whatever its called.

Thanks for your input.
Will look forward to boating season. Cheers.