2400 SCR Anchor

[Fww3]

We recently purchased a 2000 2400 SCR and love it. However, the previous owner was using a cheap Danforth fluke anchor which doesn't seem to fit with the 2400's anchor facility. I'm thinking that a plow anchor is what the designer had in mind. I would appreciate any feedback from other users, including anchor weight. We use the boat on inland lakes in Utah.

Also, the boat does not have an electric windlass but we are thinking of adding it. It is already wired for it. Any comments?

[shrew]

Each Anchor manufacturer releases a sizing chart based on the weight and type of boat. I like to err on the side of caution and go one size larger, unless I'm way on the low end of the range for the anchor. An anchor and chain for a boat that size should be able to be deployed and retrieved by hand. A windlass is nice though. You can bump the engine into drive then neutral to creep up to the anchor with someone pulling in the slack line as you go. What matters is if they can lift the weight of the anchor and the length of chain between the roller and the seabed (6-12 ft.) vertically to get the anchor back onto the roller.

The admiral heaves chain and a 22lb anchor by hand.

[biggerseagar]

Greeting Fww3...........welcome and congrats on your new boat!

I have to say I am a big fan of the fluke type anchor(dansforth, hooker. etc etc. I have lewmar windlass on our 2001 3000 SCR and like it very much. Back to the anchor......bottom line whatever you get just make sure it fits yours needs. I have always thought that a fluke style anchor will outhold anything IMHO when rigged properly. I know other boaters like the look of a delta or CQR type anchor and for the most part they do a good job. What shrew said about picking one out. Make sure you add a good length of chain to your rode and that will help you getting a good hook when you anchor.

So bottom line your decision.....

Roger

[Fww3]

Okay, thanks to you both. I am still leaning toward the electric windlass, cost notwithstanding. I boat with my 12 yr old son and my gimpy wife, who can't handle the anchor. And by experience, I am sure that I don't want to be out on the bow with her on the throttle.

[shrew]

Those sound like GREAT reasons to get a windlass. Though if you use your son, then your windlass is now 'Voice Activated'. LOL. You can't beat the ease of convenience of a windlass.....or so I'm told.

[biggerseagar]

Fww3..............there is a trick to let the boat do all the work when pulling up your anchor. Just tie a cleat hitch on your bow cleat with the anchor rode and put the boat in forward and let it pull the anchor out of the bottom. instead of your arms...........thats if you didn't know this already...........

[Calguy]

I have a 2400 SCR and installed a Lewmar V 700. A good choice with the convenient bow pulpit. 20 ft of chain and 150 ft. of rope. My anchor
is a Bruce plow style and hooks every time. Once you have a windlass you are spoiled. I use mine on San Francisco Bay, well known for difficult
anchoring conditions.

[Fww3]

-> Calguy: Did you use 8 plait for the rode? Would you by chance have a pic or the V 700 installation you could share with me?

[dronthelake]

I use a Danforth Deepset II on the end of 120 of 5/16" chain and 200' of 3 strand. I rarely ever see the rope. Ever week or two I'll open the anchor locker and hose it down good so it doesn't dry out too much. I don't have any problems hooking or staying hooked even when the wind changes. There are a lot of cruisers that drop a plow type anchor near us on the weekend and it seems they tend to have to reset after large swings of their boat.

[Tommyfmu]

My 2400SCR '99 came with a Danforth 8 lb, which was within specification. After breaking loose only once, I immediately went up to a 16 lb Super Hooker fluke, on 10 feet of chain and rope. It never let loose again even in 35 mph wind. We had a Horizon (Lewmar) 600 windlass and it worked great; make sure you install a helm switch to remotely control it.

[shrew]

Danforth style anchors are probably the best holding when pulled directly against the anchor. However, when tide or wide causes a condition where the pull is opposed to the anchor set, they tend to break free and don't reset well. I know this from personal experience. Using a bow and stern anchor will alleviate this. Otherwise, a Plow or CQR is better. The new generation anchors like the Rocna and Manson supreme have been getting very popular lately and have both extremely high holding as well as resetting properties.

As for retrieval, I agree that using the boat is the best way. I knock the boat into and out of gear to creep up on the anchor, while the admimral pulls in the slack. Once the rhode is vertical, then she ties it off to the cleat and I bump it into gear to break the anchor free. Then the anchor and chain is pulled in. Technically, since I have 30 ft. of chain, we use a chain hook on a 5 ft. line to hook the chain and tie the line to the cleat hook to break the anchor free. However, based on your previous post, it really sounds like a windlass might be your best bet.

[Bigbri]

I was told by an old salty dog here in the Puget Sound the a good rule of thumb was to 1 foot of chain for each foot of boat length. Perhaps that was for the current up here. I purchased my 94' 2400scr with an 8lb Danforth and about five feet of chain. Needless to say I haven't been on the hook yet. I'm thinking a 16lb bruce with 24 feet of chain should help me sleep at night..... Any thoughts?

[shrew]

Originally Posted by Bigbri

I was told by an old salty dog here in the Puget Sound the a good rule of thumb was to 1 foot of chain for each foot of boat length. ..... Any thoughts?

That is the rule of thumbI use. I have 30 ft of chain and a 25lb Manson Supreme on a 2800scr. The other rule of themb is, "Once people start pointing and laughing at how large your anchor is, you know you're in the right size range."

[Bigbri]

all good advise, no such thing as too much anchor as long as your bow isn't under water LOL. SO... 1 foot chain for each d=foot of length is a good measure