1996 3200 Port Engine Gremlins

[Kamilis2002]

Hello all. I'm a new boater and this is my 2nd season. I appreciate all the helpful posts and I have learned so much about my boat and boating in general.

I've been struggling with my port engine during docking maneuvers. It made last season not as fun, and now it is doing the same. It will stall when I am going through the F-N-R, but only on the port side. Port side is more sensitive. Starboard never stalls. When I'm tied up in the dock and run through F-N-R with both engines running, there are no issues. I actually try to get it to stall but I cannot. I have no issues at all when I'm cruising on the lake.

It was winterized and serviced. In addition, I had the lower control cables replaced while the port coupler was replaced. Props and drives had a lot of corrosion so props were changed, drives were painted and anodes all replaced. Engines were tuned up the season before.

It could be user error that I shift too fast, especially as a new boater, I start to get nervous. Even more nervous now because I anticipate it will stall. I will also add the port side throttle neutral is also hard to find sometimes. It doesn't shift as smooth as starboard and finding F-N-R is not as easy as the starboard side throttle.

Now for the gremlins.
Coming out of storage this year, the tachometer worked just fine. Same thing with coming out of storage last winter. It seems that it works less and less the more it sits in the water. After in the water for a month, the tachometer is not working at all, and the port engine seems to be getting more finicky. I think the same thing happened last year as I think more about it.

The port side engine starts fine but most often after a few attempts of cranking (turn key, crank, repeat). Starboard starts right up.
I'm starting to think that I have some type of electrical gremlin with the port side. I am convinced that things work better when the tachometer is working, but then not so good when the tachometer is not. The tachometer is my first clue that it is not going to be a good day. I am convinced about this but it could just be me.

I'm thinking that I have some bad electrical connections somewhere. Does this sound logical? Where would be the best place to start? Could these problems all be connected?

I appreciate any help.
Thank you.
Jim K

[mmwjr]

Being a 3200 I’m assuming you have Bravo drives instead of Alpha drives; correct? Alpha drives use a shift interrupt switch which temporarily kills the ignition when shifting out of gear and if not adjusted correctly will kill the engine. Bravo drives had a cone clutch and don’t require the interrupt switch. Have you tried tapping on the tachometer to see if it responds, normal as they age. May be time to replace them.

[Kamilis2002]

Yes- Bravo 2 drives. It worked sometimes early last season. Taoping doesn’t do anything. I’m thinking loose or corroded or needs replacement like you say. Could it affect other things like the oil alarm not working either?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Kamilis2002

Yes- Bravo 2 drives. It worked sometimes early last season. Taoping doesn’t do anything. I’m thinking loose or corroded or needs replacement like you say. Could it affect other things like the oil alarm not working either?

The only way I can see it causing other problems is if the power or ground is jumped between them and broken due to corrosion.

[Kamilis2002]

Thanks- i will dig into it and try to trace it down and see what I find and share.

[mmwjr]

Regarding the port engine stalling what is its idle rpm in gear? Should be around 750 rpm. Does it restart right away? Is the idle smooth?

[Kamilis2002]

The rpms sound the same as the starboard, athough the tach isn’t working. The idle stays consistent when in neutral and there is no hesitation. It starts back up pretty much right away, usually. The starboard definitely starts up easier always. There are some occasions where i probably flooded it because i got frustrated and they are carbs. I try to recreate the stall when i’m tied up securely in the dock but i can’t recreate the stall situation.

[Kamilis2002]

And yes, sorry, the rpm's based on the starboard tach are right at about 800 rpm. The port sounds like it is running at the same RPM as the starboard side, with no dip in rpm when in gear at idle.

[mmwjr]

You mentioned that the port is harder to shift, have tried disconnecting the cables at the shift plate on the engine to see if it becomes easier. If it doesn’t then either the cable or shifter is the issue. You could also have an issue with the clutch in the drive.

[Kamilis2002]

I have not tried that yet. I will try it and see. I may not get back to the boat for a week.
Thanks,
Jim

[Kamilis2002]

I was able to get the tachometer working. I re-tightened all the connections and jiggled the switches. I didn't find any obvious signs of corrosion or loose wires, but it seemed to do the trick.

I also sprayed WD40 in the shifter and worked it in neutral position. Then the starboard shifter got stuck in neutral. It took me a little while to get it unstuck. Based on the stickers, these are the original shifters from 1996. The shifters move much better now in neutral, but it's tricky to get it to go into neutral. I also adjusted the bearing ball pressure so it's more distinct when the ball is engaged. I may ask Santa for new shifters for Christmas. I ran out of time to disconnect the cable at the plate and see if the shifting got easier.

I paid closer attention to the idle. They are both idling at about 500. Based on your advice, these will need to be increased.

While secured in the dock and paying closer attention (not that that tach is working), I engaged both engines in idle- F-N-R. The starboard side has a distinct feel and sound when the gears are engaged. You can feel the shift into gear and you can hear it. The port side doesn't have the same distinct feel and sound of the gears shifting.

I was also able to recreate the stall on the port side. It would happen when I would overshoot going from neutral to idle forward because F is harder to find and then I would over-correct to the indent ball quickly. N to R is easier to find and not as difficult to shift. Could this be the clutch?

I also noticed a drop in RPM when in idle, so that it would be close to 400-450 rpm. More noticeable in the port engine that is sensitive to stalling.

Thanks,
Jim

[mmwjr]

In gear it should be between 550 and 650 rpm. Any lower can result in stalling. Hopefully you’ve been a good boy as it sounds like it’s time for a new throttle/shifter control. You can try disconnecting the lower shift cable from the shift plate to see if the port side shifts better manually by pushing and pulling on the end of the cable.

[Kamilis2002]

I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your help!
Jim

[Kamilis2002]

Took the boat out a few days ago with a captain to get some training. Things were going great. We were idling around the harbor practicing maneuvers. The port engine didn't stall at all, like previously, and the port tachometer worked. It still needs a tap from time to time. I think the stalling had something to do with the way I was shifting before. Idle was strong at 800. Previous post, I noted it was around 550. I had planned to raise the idle but today it was fine. Maybe because it was less humid today and in the low 80's compared to 90's and very humid last time?

Anyhow, we were 2 hours into maneuvering and going to practice docking. Then we noticed the port side drive lost power. Idle RPM didn't change, except is seemed like it was unloaded. Port would not give us forward or reverse thrust from the propellar. We could move the shifter, no change in feel, but there was no thrust in forward or reverse. We docked and tied off. The captain inspected and the shift plate was moving the shift cable back and forth, but the props were not spinning. His best guess was maybe the cable separated inside the drive. But he wasn't sure.

This past winter, the port coupler was changed, both drives were serviced, and both drive cables were replaced. I am wondering if they did not do something correctly with the port side when they did the service work. I had the port coupler changed because a mechanic said last season that it started to show signs of wear.

Right now it is sitting in the water. It is about 20 miles to get it back to where I had it serviced. I could drive it on one engine or have it towed. But I would like to do some trouble shooting first myself. I'm starting to get a little skeptical of the service that was done by them already. They were quick to send a tech out to look at it, but slow to give me a response back. What would be the right steps to try to trouble shoot myself to verify before I take it back or look for another place to service.
Thanks,

[mmwjr]

Regarding the tapping on the tach. On the backside of it there is a cylinder selection slot, rotating it back and forth may clear up the issue for a bit but remember to return it to its original position.

Since the port coupler was replaced that eliminates it. The propeller also has a rubber break away hub similar to the coupler. Typically when they go bad the propeller will still grab up to about 1500 rpm and above that break free providing no power. You can remove the lower shift cable from the shift bracket and see if you manually phase pull the end to see if the drive is engaging. The cable doesn’t go into the drive but instead clamps into the shift claw which then moves the shift arm to move the cone clutch in the drive.

[Kamilis2002]

I was able to find the issue with the cable. The lower shift cable was rubbing against the coupler and the cable eventually failed. When I disconnected the cable from the shift plate, there was not resistance when I tried to engage the gears with the engine running. It felt like I could pull the inner cable out, and I did pull about 18" out, and then pushed it back in. When I pushed it forward, it made some sounds in the back of the engine, but it was the cable pushing harder against the coupler.

I attached a picture. You can see the frayed cable and where the coupler was rubbing against it.

Now I will go back to the yacht yard that performed the service. They performed drive service, replaced the coupler and the lower shift cable this past winter. The coupler now has a shiny exposed metal sheen where the protective enamel was. I'm sure that it will start rusting quickly. Should I push on them to also replace the coupler? Should I be concerned?

[mmwjr]

The standard coupler is made of aluminum which will form a layer of oxide but not rust. I don’t think it will cause any problems.

[Kamilis2002]

Thank you for all your help! This forum is a great resource.