12 volt/120 volt Fridge not working on 12 volt DC

[MAXUM2500SE]

Just finished un-winterizing my 2400SE and noticed that the fridge will work on 120V AC but not on 12v DC. I have power to the 12 volt side, but the green lite glows dim and doesn't start the compressor. When I switch the breaker on the lite glows brighter and the compressor runs normally. Used it last year on 12V and it ran flawlessly. Any ideas?

[Kevlar7r]

How strong are your batteries? Have you confirmed it's really 12v coming in, and not like 10?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[mmwjr]

I agree with Kev here if you verify you are getting a good 12V at the frig with it switched on then you will need to check the crossover circuit in the frig that allows either 12VDC or the 120VAC in.

[arichard]

I posted on a previous thread a fix for the older Norcold fridges for this exact problem. What model fridge is it? The LED light is the cause of the issue normally as long as you have 12V going to the fridge from the batteries. Essentially the LED is faulty and cause the curcuit to break killing the 12V side of things. I fixed mine back in the fall. Simply desolder the LED and install a new one in its place. Any 12v LED will work. Again though, this is on the older versions.

Found the thread.
http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...ower-6675.html

Here was my response

I have a little info for you. I have a 94' 2400scr. My fridge would only run on shorepower until I finally fix it. The green LED that comes on inside the fridge on the thermostat was faulty. It still lit up and looked to be working, but was not allowing voltage to pas through. I simply removed it and soldered a new one in place and the 12v side started working. Somehow, when they designed this fridge, the thermostat main board power runs through the LED...So when its faulty, 12V side no longer works.

Posting this incase someone else is looking for info!

[Kevlar7r]

I had a similar problem with that led. Mine, the leg of the led corroded through. I didn't replace the led, just soldered a bridge across the leads.

On mine though, that circuit break totally shut the unit down, not just on 12v.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[MAXUM2500SE]

Just an update:

After troubleshooting some wires found the main fuse panel leads positive and negative were extremely corroded. Looks like they used dissimilar metal nuts on the posts and caused some rusting on the terminals. Fridge is back up and running one both AC and DC. There was 12VDC at the fridge but not enough power due to the corrosion.

thanks guys for the suggestions.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by MAXUM2500SE

Just an update:

After troubleshooting some wires found the main fuse panel leads positive and negative were extremely corroded. Looks like they used dissimilar metal nuts on the posts and caused some rusting on the terminals. Fridge is back up and running one both AC and DC. There was 12VDC at the fridge but not enough power due to the corrosion.

thanks guys for the suggestions.

Glad you figured it out, thanks for letting us know the source of the issue.