'00 3000SCR Shower pump not turning on - how to troubleshoot?

[Maxumillion]

Hi all,
Shower pump will not turn on, nor will the red light go on in the switch. (I just tested it out a few weeks ago for a couple of seconds & seemed to work fine, red switch light came on & heard the pump go on.) I looked for a fuse, I found what looked to be a fuse panel under the helm, one was labeled "Shower Pump", & it looked the same as the others beneath the individual clear rubber sheaths with nothing popped out to push in and "re-set". I'm not sure if these were breakers instead of typical fuses that you can pull out & replace b/c the rubber sheaths didn't seem like they're meant to come off?? I washed the boat last week & got water under the helm area & then noticed a cluster of wires that might have gotten wet & hoped that no harm was done. To troubleshoot, I checked behind the wall switch & all seemed fine, I checked the Flo-Jet pump under the floor/fwd bilge area & all seemed fine, it doesn't seem to have a test lever like the fwd bilge pump right next to it, I also poured water down the shower drain to see if it would trigger the pump but after a few ounces it backed up with pink antifreeze so the pipe is full & pump never fired. I'm wondering if it's even getting power to the switch if the red light inside it isn't even coming on? So I'm hoping it's an easy fuse replacement as the pump has had minimal use and is like new. (My horn on top of the radar arch isn't working either, but It could be a separate issue as the horn was out prior to the pump failing.) I'm not sure where to look next but I can't seem to find any fuse info in the manual or on-line.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[seapuppy]

yes the fuse panel below the helm are breakers.....they are meant to pop out if shorted....however down in the bilge area where the pump is might be an inline blade type of fuses that can blow with water intrusion...yes if there is no power...the lighted switch will not activate.....so...use a volt/ohm multi meter and start tracing down the leads from the main pwr buss under the helm to the breaker to the sw...etc....

hope this helps..

SP

[biggerseagar]

When you say fine what does that mean? Put a volt meter to the pump and switch. You should get 12 volts DC on your meter at the switch and then with the switch on at the pump just be the same. If not test at the breaker to see if you have power.

Roger

[Maxumillion]

Thanks guys... It looks like I have some detective work to do with the electrical system... I'll let you know the outcome if I ever get to the bottom of it...

Much appreciated!

[shrew]

The light bulb in the switch can be known to die even if the switch itself is working. I'm sure you've first confirmed the battery switch is turned on, since that shower sump will only run on 12V. That being said, I'd take the switch off and put a volt meter to the switch. I'd also put a volt meter to the pump itself and make sure you're getting 12V to both. Obviously both the battery and sump switch would need to be on in order to get power to the pump. While laborious, I'm a fan of isolating variables, as I've stated in other posts. (commence eye rolling). I'll take a 12v Battery and create jumpers from the battery directly to the pump (making sure there is the properly sized inline fuse in place). This essentially isolates just the pump and confirms that it is working. You can move your way back from there. I find this somewhat easier than starting at the battery bank itself. If not pump, then check switch. If not switch, then check wiring.........and so forth and so on.

[Maxumillion]

Yes, batteries were definitely on, and I'm wondering if the switch failed and there's no juice going to the pump. The switch is a double that also operates the head light with a mini rocker switch above the red light rocker pump switch. The head light still works, so that part is getting juice, and when the head light is on & you turn on the red pump switch you see a very faint quick pulse in the head light. Not sure if that means anything. I have to get a volt meter next to test for current. I'm assuming I'll only need a basic meter to determine if voltage is present. This is new to me, so do you just put the meter leeds on the exposed wire ends, and then on the pump itself, or do you put them where the
wires connect to the switch and the pump respectively, or does it work either way? Thanks...

[destination unknown]

I have a 1997 3000. The circut breakers under the dash do go bad. I have had to replace a few. Do the following steps to check your circut.

1. remove the red rocker switch and connect the two wires to the rocker switch directly together. If pump works bad switch. If pump does not work go to step 2.
2. Connect 12 V battery directly to pump. If pump does not run you have a bad pump. If pump runs go to step 3.
3. Remove the 6 or 8 screws on the circut breaker panel under the helm. Then remove the wire going to the shower sump pump and put it on circut breaker that u know is working. If pump works then you know you have a bad circut breaker. Get circut breaker from any Bayliner, Searay or Maxum dealer. If still not working go to step 4.
4. You have a bad ground wire in the system. replace all connectors in the hot and ground loop. If still not working you will need to run new hot line to the switch and a new ground line to the pump.

As far as the horn, behind the starbord arch speaker is a 10 pin harnes. This connector goes bad. I had to remove and resplice all the wires in the radar arch harnes. Also check the conections inside the top of the arch where the wire harmness was but connected to the horn leads.

Hope this helps

[Maxumillion]

Thanks for the addl info to check! I'll start on it & hope not break anything else in the process!
Started with shower pump issue, led to literally breaking my hard to find 50 amp dc breaker, to aft main bilge pump dying, which seems like orig equip, Johnson 1250 gpm... I think I'll let the yard tackle the upgrade. I'm thinking bat going w a Rule 1500 or 2000 auto...thx agn!