Steering, controls and cables - Maxum Boat Owners Club

jamanati · 01-04-2013, 02:10 AM

Have a 95 3200 Scr, Merc Bravo IIs. I'm looking to replace the steering cable, the enter shifter unit which has tilt switches on it, and the control cables (throttle and shift). Anyone do this on this type of boat? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

HavaMax · 01-04-2013, 03:54 AM

Jam, I would love to have smoother shifting and throttles!! Please keep updates as you proceed!!

AlwaysSober · 01-28-2013, 10:08 PM

I have the same set-up on our '96 3200 SCR. Our mechanic found our problem in the lower unit. Cost some money to pull it, fix and re-install, but it now engages much smoother.

I've found some steering play in the two piece rod that connects the two drives. Seems the bolt has worn the holes out some. Yet another project for this off season.

In other words, you may want to disconnect various sections and see where the problems are first.

jamanati · 06-06-2013, 03:03 AM

When it was time to get my boat back in the water last month, the port shifter was almost completely frozen. The port bellows/cables/etc was all done the prior season so was pretty sure it was the shifter or the cables. I tested it by disconnecting the shift cable from the drive to the engine, the drive shifted like butter when I manually moved the cable. With that cable disconnected, the port shifter was still pretty frozen. The starboard also stiff but not as stiff. Bunch of spray lube got me just enough to get my boat back in the slip. Had to put a lot of shoulder into moving the shifters, the unit itself was starting to pull out of the helm. I bit the bullet, went with a new Merc Gen2 shifter, new control and throttle cables from shifter to both engines. Also swapped the original tilt-steering box and cable with a new set as well.

The result is a huge difference. The new shifter and cables shift like butter. Make that melted butter. I now have to get used to applying very little effort to just push the levers to engage both forward and reverse. Wow is the word that comes to mind. The trailer buttons are now on the shifter itself. There is a single trim button on the lever that operates both drives simultaneously, as well as 2 separate buttons that can lower/raise each drive independently, including trailer mode.

The steering went from a two handed grab and tug to now a much more enjoyable feeling, one handed, with no binding or sticking. I did also flush the steering fluid by disconnecting the return line that goes to the pump, and having someone turn the wheel from far right, to far left, over and over. That pushed the fluid through the system, and I spent 2 quarts of Merc power steering fluid to flush out the old stuff out of the system, then almost another quart to fill it to the appropriate level.

Money well spent is my take on this. If you have the funds and a problematic shifter or steering, nothing beats a new set.

HavaMax · 06-06-2013, 04:42 AM

Glad to hear of your success Jam!!! Are ya wanting to do another set on my big max????......

HavaMax · 06-06-2013, 04:43 AM

Any tips or tricks?? Did you do this with the boat in the water??

jamanati · 06-06-2013, 01:49 PM

Yes, work was done while boat was in the water. I used the best tool in my toolbox for all this work, my checkbook.

HavaMax · 06-06-2013, 05:38 PM

Yea....not sure I have the patience or want to tackle a job like this?!? But I do envy your happiness!!!

jamanati · 06-08-2013, 12:51 AM

It definitely looked like a big job, plus the mechanic had to open the hole in the helm a bit as the gen2 shifter is bigger. All in all he did only charge me for 6 hours total labor for all the work. So for that money, plus the comfort and security of knowing it was done right, it was well worth the money to pay someone to do it in my opinion.

AlwaysSober · 06-18-2013, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamanati

It definitely looked like a big job, plus the mechanic had to open the hole in the helm a bit as the gen2 shifter is bigger. All in all he did only charge me for 6 hours total labor for all the work. So for that money, plus the comfort and security of knowing it was done right, it was well worth the money to pay someone to do it in my opinion.

We had a plotter/radar/transducer/fuel meters/gps antena assembly installed by a mechanic this off season. I could have done it myself, but I doubt that everything would have played together nice. Some things are better left to the pros, especially if the pro is good and only charges you for an honest day's work.

Casandersjr · 06-20-2013, 11:31 PM

I have a 2000 3300 and the shifters have always been very stiff and not smooth at all. Last year I had the shifter cables replaced and it improved only marginally. In addition when under power and trying to slow down, as I pull the throttles back to power down i reach a place where it just "breaks' and goes to far. Has anyone had this problem and found a fix.
Thanks

shrew · 06-21-2013, 04:10 PM

I'd start with the shifter itself. Then i'd be look at the linkage on teh engine.

T.J. Grant · 08-02-2023, 02:26 AM

I have the same steering problem you described. You got yours fixed. What size cable did you get? Where did you get it from? How long did it take to replace? What about the rack and pinion steering bar?? Does it come with the cable or did you order separately. My cable must have been replaced before as there are no markings on it at all. Planning to pull boat out of water in December to do the work. Any information you can provide would be much appreciated. Thank you. T.J. Grant

jamanati · 08-24-2023, 03:25 PM

Hey T.J, been offline for a while, just saw your reply.

My marine mechanic did all the work, replacing the shifter cables and the shifter itself, and that definitely solved the problem. I did replace the actuator (the rod that pushes/pulls the steering). That didn't make any difference.

It did take my mechanic a good amount of work to do it.

There is also the shift cable from the engine to the outdrive, best to replace that as well when the boat is out of the water.