4600SCB Winterization

[kenyu73]

Does anyone drain their heat exchangers or the exhaust "mufflers". Anyone happen to know how many gallons it takes for each motor? I'm going to run it until its pink out the exhaust more then likely, but the mufflers look like that take alot of fluid.

Just pulled the boat yesterday and plan to start the motor winterization soon.

[SteveP]

I use 5 gallons poured into the strainer. Has worked fine over the years. I also use a bilge heater at around 45 degrees.

[kenyu73]

I used 7 gallons per motor via strainer. I pulled the small bolt/plug on the exhaust before adding the anti-freeze and had pink coming out on the 6th gallon. Added the 7th just in case.

I used air pressure for the water system.

I just have the AC/Heat to do next, but adding to the strainer doesn't really work since I dont have head pressure. Any tips on what people do for the AC/Heat pump side?

[kenyu73]

Actually, I researched and figured out why AC pumps are so hard to winterize. They aren't self priming. They need head pressure (ie: force) to work since they're centrifugal.

We can winterize using something that is higher then the pump (my filter is below the pump) like a sealed funnel or a funnel that can push pressure and force anti-freeze from the filter or since they aren't self-priming, you can actually blow air or anti-freeze from the exit port on the side of the boat and the fluid or air will back flow out the inlet pickup under the boat.

Short story, if your filter is below the pump, you can't just pour anti-freeze into the strainer since it wont prime )=

[shrew]

Originally Posted by kenyu73

Actually, I researched and figured out why AC pumps are so hard to winterize. They aren't self priming. They need head pressure (ie: force) to work since they're centrifugal.

We can winterize using something that is higher then the pump (my filter is below the pump) like a sealed funnel or a funnel that can push pressure and force anti-freeze from the filter or since they aren't self-priming, you can actually blow air or anti-freeze from the exit port on the side of the boat and the fluid or air will back flow out the inlet pickup under the boat.

Short story, if your filter is below the pump, you can't just pour anti-freeze into the strainer since it wont prime )=

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp...947&id=2755962

I install Grocco Flush kits on the inbound side of the sea strainer. They come with a fitting to connect to the flushing port that has a Garden Hose Thread (GHT).

I have a small section of garden hose (roughly 3 feet) that is connected to the flush port fitting.

1) Close the seacock

2) Remove the flush port plug.

3) Insert the flush port fitting connected to the hose.

4) Insert a small funnel at the open end of the cut hose.

5) Start pouring propylene glycol into the funnel.

This will prime the system. It will actually allow you to some passively flush the system. However, I turn on the heat or AC (depending outside temp). You can absolutely pour faster than a 5K unit will pump through. Once pink is coming out of all discharge through-hulls, you're done.

I replace the flush port plug and open the seacock when I'm done.

I've been doing this for 15 years with no issues.

[kenyu73]

Thanks for the idea Shrew!!

Kinda crazy price, even for Defender, but that concept is easy to create with brass parts. Though, come to think... it would prob be $40-50 in brass to make that I'm sure.

I made brass adaptors for my fresh water (and wash down) so I hook up an air compressor to the dock water hook up and push out the water at each faucet... lastly I unhook the water pumps so any stray water comes out.