water heater - Maxum Boat Owners Club

jeff · 06-11-2012, 06:02 PM

hi guys
happy start of the season,

im looking for the water heater on my 2001 scr 28
would any one have a pic lying around so i could see
or explain where it is?
please

thanks Jeff

seapuppy · 06-11-2012, 06:13 PM

it should be in the engine bay on the port side I believe....

SP

shrew · 06-11-2012, 06:47 PM

Follow the water lines from the freshwater tank, to the pressure pump. Soon after the pump, it will split. One will be the cold side and branch out to all cold faucets. One will lead to the IN side of the hot water heater. It is more than likely a large metal box. It MIGHT be a cyclinder, depending on which model they installed. Normally has a large sticker on the top "NOT A STEP".

jeff · 06-12-2012, 02:00 PM

thanks guys i will check it out tonight

jeff · 06-12-2012, 02:03 PM

does it have to be turned seperately
on or does it turn on with the batts ?

thanks again

ccruser1 · 06-12-2012, 04:25 PM

On my scr2300 I need to turn on the breaker.
My boat is raw water cooled so no heat exchanger to heat water while under way.

shrew · 06-12-2012, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff

does it have to be turned seperately
on or does it turn on with the batts ?

thanks again

Hot Water heater runs off the shore power or in some cases is heated with hot water used to cool the engine. No 12V hot water heaters.

ImRich · 06-12-2012, 06:09 PM

Here is what the unit in my '90 SCR-27 looks like:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/marine-p...er-heaters.asp

Not to hi-jack this thread, but it is on the correct subject matter. I have an older 1990 Atwood unit that does not work anymore. The previous owner by-passed it. My guess is that they burned out the heating element. I hope the tank isn't leaking.

Is there a good source of aftermarket heating elements, or will any heating element work? Considering that this only runs on 115VAC, would a 'on demand' water heater work? Or is there no 115 VAC on demand systems available for a boat?

I guess I'm torn between simply replacing the entire water heater, or trying to get just a new heating element? I'd hate to replace the heating element and then find out that the tank has a slow leak or will develop a leak in short order?

What life span do these have? Considering the tank is probably aluminum, and this boat has been used only in fresh water?

Thinking of the life of a home water heater, I suppose I should just bite the bullet and get a new one, so as not to have to worry about the tank leaking?

Any thoughts would help, I hope to pull this out of the boat this weekend to inspect it further.

jeff · 06-14-2012, 01:53 PM

the water heater works with the shore power, but it says make sure the water heater is full of water before turning on , thats how elements are burned out,, just like a home water heater,
my question is how do you know when heater is full off water?

thanks jeff

ImRich · 06-14-2012, 02:34 PM

Turn on a hot water spigot... let the water run until no air comes out. This should mean the tank is full.

jeff · 06-15-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImRich

Turn on a hot water spigot... let the water run until no air comes out. This should mean the tank is full.

thanks rich

ImRich · 06-18-2012, 02:05 AM

I pulled out my old water heater today. Wow, what a job, I didn't know if I was going to be successful in removing it. I amost thought I would have to remove the engine (or some engine parts) to give me room to get the old heater out. I only needed about 1/2 inch of more clearance.

I did get it out, but the cover of the water heater had a dent and a scrape when I was done.

I'll have to take the cover off to see if that will give me more room to be able to install a new one.

Do they really expect a person to remove parts off the engine to replace a water heater???

ShoreAcres · 06-18-2012, 11:44 PM

I have a brand new one still in the box that came with my boat when I bought it. Luckily the old one is already out. We should compare notes on the re-install. I have to put in a new demand pump first. Also something seems to have happened to the power supply to my demand pump as the lighted switch in the galley no longer lights up. I may have disconected a wire somewhere.

seapuppy · 06-19-2012, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImRich

I pulled out my old water heater today. Wow, what a job, I didn't know if I was going to be successful in removing it. I amost thought I would have to remove the engine (or some engine parts) to give me room to get the old heater out. I only needed about 1/2 inch of more clearance.

I did get it out, but the cover of the water heater had a dent and a scrape when I was done.

I'll have to take the cover off to see if that will give me more room to be able to install a new one.

Do they really expect a person to remove parts off the engine to replace a water heater???

usually the heater is installed before the 2 halves are mated.....it's easier when the top decking isn't on and all the plumbing and electrical are accessable ...

SP

ImRich · 06-19-2012, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShoreAcres

I have a brand new one still in the box that came with my boat when I bought it. Luckily the old one is already out. We should compare notes on the re-install. I have to put in a new demand pump first. Also something seems to have happened to the power supply to my demand pump as the lighted switch in the galley no longer lights up. I may have disconected a wire somewhere.

I experimented with the old one and found that the covers come off easily. When I attempt the re-install of the new replacement, I may just remove the covers, and re-assemble it inside the engine compartment. This will mean laying on top of my engine for a while, but it may be the only way to accomplish this task as removing the covers should save me about 1 inch of clearance, which I will need!

As to your demand pump and lighted switch, check all your fuses, clean their terminals, and re-install, possibly even several times. On my '90 I found that all the fuses and electrical switches are getting old, and need cleaning (or replacement). By operating switches several times (or 15 to 20 times) they started working again as the internal contacts moved and cleaned the contacts. I thought I had a lot more electrical problems as most things were not working. Come to find out that the contacts on the fuses also needed cleaning. It took me a while to find the hidden fuse panel behind a galley cabinet false wall.