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03-07-2017, 08:51 PM
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#121
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Harrison Twp, MI
Posts: 22
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Wow! Reading through this was intense! I'm glad to hear you've fixed everything and can now enjoy her. I'd imagine at this time you're now a Maxum expert. I'll be sure to come to you if something breaks on my 3000!
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03-07-2017, 10:49 PM
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#122
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Yep I am aware of jetting them in. Special nozzle to burrow and clear hole at same time.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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03-08-2017, 06:08 PM
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#123
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RxPad
Wow! Reading through this was intense! I'm glad to hear you've fixed everything and can now enjoy her. I'd imagine at this time you're now a Maxum expert. I'll be sure to come to you if something breaks on my 3000!
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Lol, yea, I've developed a deeper knowledge of my boat than I had anticipated.
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04-09-2017, 04:54 PM
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#124
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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She's out of the water today, getting her new extended swim platform. Installed it myself with the help of my wife, mother in law, and a buddy. Heading down to the marina in a few to relaunch and bring her home. I'll take some finished pics today, and post them.  
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04-09-2017, 06:29 PM
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#125
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Yep I am aware of jetting them in. Special nozzle to burrow and clear hole at same time.
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I understand how this works but how stable can it be if you are only in mud. The pylons are usually driven into bedrock so they do not move?
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Mike
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04-09-2017, 10:06 PM
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#126
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrt214
I understand how this works but how stable can it be if you are only in mud. The pylons are usually driven into bedrock so they do not move?
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Pier pylons are not driven into bedrock but hard earth. Bedrock is more than the length of a pylon.
Jetting sets them in several feet which is stable however more prone to being pulled out by ice in conjunction with high tides.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-10-2017, 01:34 AM
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#127
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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We don't deal with heaving due to ice much here in Florida.
Load bearing pilings, such as for a lift need to get driven after they are jetted. Most crews use about 400 pounds of concrete dropped from 6 feet or so to pound them solid.
A jetted piling is at least 5 feet in to the mud. It's amazing just how solid they are. Also remember that the tapered end is down, so as load is applied, the piling is trying to displace mud, which is very dense.
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04-10-2017, 01:35 AM
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#128
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Brought her home with the new platform today! I'm like a kid on Christmas.   
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04-10-2017, 01:39 AM
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#129
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Looks great, so how hard was it installing the bolts?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-10-2017, 02:16 AM
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#130
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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I'm curious too...
Roger
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04-10-2017, 02:37 AM
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#131
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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It wasn't bad at all. The main bolts along the back edge were pre drilled and counter sunk. So we set in place, propped up the back to level, and drilled through the holes in the platform.
Now the rub is, those bolts are between 3-6 feet from where you can get your body, down in the engine room. They ship washers and lock nuts, I ordered up locking flange nuts. I put a socket on a breaker bar, and the flange nut would sit on top. I could then reach the bar back, hold the nut against the protruding bolt, and had my friend spin the bolt with an impact driver. The starboard back bolt was a problem. 6 plus feet away, and couldn't see it behind the main cable bundle. Took some time, finesse, and curse words, but got it in.
Support bars were easy, mostly lags and sealant.
The fact that my main helpers during the hard part were my wife and mother in law speaks to how approachable the project is.
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04-10-2017, 02:42 AM
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#132
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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If I were thinner and lighter, with a back in better shape, I could have done it in about 2 hours. We took our time, and a lot of breaks, and it was about 4 hours. 2 men can easily lift it in place.
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04-10-2017, 02:45 AM
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#133
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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I included the forklift pic because, it will not stop blowing my mind seeing that thing up in the air.
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04-10-2017, 12:23 PM
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#134
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlar7r
It wasn't bad at all. The main bolts along the back edge were pre drilled and counter sunk. So we set in place, propped up the back to level, and drilled through the holes in the platform.
Now the rub is, those bolts are between 3-6 feet from where you can get your body, down in the engine room. They ship washers and lock nuts, I ordered up locking flange nuts. I put a socket on a breaker bar, and the flange nut would sit on top. I could then reach the bar back, hold the nut against the protruding bolt, and had my friend spin the bolt with an impact driver. The starboard back bolt was a problem. 6 plus feet away, and couldn't see it behind the main cable bundle. Took some time, finesse, and curse words, but got it in.
Support bars were easy, mostly lags and sealant.
The fact that my main helpers during the hard part were my wife and mother in law speaks to how approachable the project is.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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Good idea using the locking flange nuts, guess you also could have loctited the washers onto the lock nuts they provided.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-10-2017, 12:41 PM
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#135
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Good idea using the locking flange nuts, guess you also could have loctited the washers onto the lock nuts they provided.
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I thought about that, but didn't think it would be firm enough to push up against the bolt. Pretty sure we cross threaded a couple of them, but I don't care. Don't plan to ever remove those bolts.
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06-09-2017, 03:10 AM
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#136
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Cuts a beautiful wake 
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06-09-2017, 03:17 AM
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#137
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlar7r
I thought about that, but didn't think it would be firm enough to push up against the bolt. Pretty sure we cross threaded a couple of them, but I don't care. Don't plan to ever remove those bolts.
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My dad's old trick is hot gluing the nuts and washers together and to the socket. Easy to break the hot glue once tight. I decided to go with the flange nuts.
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06-09-2017, 11:49 AM
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#138
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlar7r
My dad's old trick is hot gluing the nuts and washers together and to the socket. Easy to break the hot glue once tight. I decided to go with the flange nuts.
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Worried about you buddy, talking to yourself. (Responding to your own post) 
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-09-2017, 12:52 PM
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#139
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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I meant to answer yours... oh well!
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09-10-2017, 03:01 PM
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#140
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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__________________
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