Forward bilge float switch not working - ideas? - Maxum Boat Owners Club

jpr993 · 07-21-2012, 02:59 AM

Hi all - the forward bilge auto float is not working. My boat is a 1996 2400 SCR. The pump works from the dash switch fine but the auto float does not work. Is the autofloat fused somewhere or is the likely culprit the float switch itself? I have seen wiring diagrams not specific to this boat ( http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=423567) that show a fuse on the dash switch and another fuse on the autofloat. Seems like the first and easiest place to look would be this fuse if it exists but I have no idea where to look. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jon

mcoffey · 07-21-2012, 03:32 AM

According to the wiring diagram in the owners manual, there is a 5A fuse for the FWD Bilge Auto Float and a 7A fuse for the AFT Bilge Auto Float right at the battery. I know on my 1996 2100SR the wire goes directly from the float switch to the battery with an in-line fuse right at the battery. Mine was bad and had to be replaced (the entire fuse holder that is). So I would look at all the wires connected to the + side of the battery and check the fuses and the holder in each. If you can get to the float switch, you can test for power at it as well. Should have 12v on 1 wire only when float is down. Power passes through to the other wire when float is up.

Manual I found was here on this site. Here is the link.

http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...20Cruisers.pdf

jpr993 · 07-22-2012, 12:00 AM

Thanks MCOFFEY. I will check it out. For some reason, I downloaded the manual but missed this. I see it clearly now. One of my favorite sayings is RTFM --> "Read The %$#^ Manual"... now I have to say it to myself!

Jon

jpr993 · 07-22-2012, 04:29 PM

I looked everywhere in the engine compartment and couldn't find the fuse for the fwd bilge autofloat. I suppose it could be behind the dash panel or behind the fridge. Looking at the vent under the fridge, it looks like the wiring goes up and in another cavity from the fridge opening....

Does anyone know for sure so I don't have to pull things apart to find this fuse?

Thanks,
Jon

pascavone · 07-22-2012, 07:29 PM

if you have the RuleMate auto pump that is a electronic sensor, then those are garage.

They are suppose send a current thru the senor every 2 second, but mine never shut off, and the battery when dead.

I tried it in a bucket in the boat store, and lifted it 5 feet out of the water and it would not go off.

Replace your pumps with the Jacobs that have a mechanic "toilet float", that works with the laws of universe.

Just don't sail thru any black holes.... or all bets are off.

jpr993 · 07-23-2012, 03:53 AM

Thanks pascavone. I do have a newer RuleMate in the rear bilge and it seems to work fine. In the forward bilge (the one in question in this thread), I have an Attwood autofloat mechanical switch attached to an un branded pump or no name that I could see. I would agree that the good old mechanical switch would be a more robust solution than the electrical sensor.

Still looking for the fuse... I may do some extra diag work on it tomorrow.

mcoffey · 07-23-2012, 04:42 PM

Hi Jon, have you verified that you do not have power at the float yet? It could be that you have power at it but the float switch itself is bad and not completing the circuit when the float is up. Also, how did you test it? Did you fill up the bilge with water or did you reach in and lift the float up? I know mine takes quite a bit of water to trip it so maybe you just didn't have enough in there? If I remember correctly, mine was almost fully submerged before it would engage and power the pump.

if you have tested and there is no power at the float then maybe you can trace the wire back using the color and size of the wire. I would expect it to go straight from the float to the battery and not patch in to the dash anywhere (though I could be wrong).

seapuppy · 07-23-2012, 04:45 PM

the fwd float sw. fuse should be located in/near the fwd bilge area ...think they are the blade type 15a fuse.....

Steve

shrew · 07-23-2012, 06:17 PM

The ground should be common. You should have two positive leads. One postive lead comes from the dash switch and will only be hot when the dash switch is on. The other positive lead should be hot all the time. That goes to the float switch. Even if the bilge pump has an internal float switch, then the pump should have 2 positive leads, one for dash and one dedicated and it will share a common ground.

Cut the negatives and positives and use a meter. If one is one and one is off, while the dash switch is off, then the hot is the bilge pump switch lead. If both are off there is a problem. Turn the dash switch on and repeat. IF both are on, then it is working correctly. If both are off or only one is on then that is a problem.

I hope this helps.

jpr993 · 07-24-2012, 03:16 AM

Thanks all. I didn't get any free time today to do any diag on this. I haven't cut any wires yet as I wanted to find the "easy" fix first which I thought would be the fuse but finding that thing... I will check in the and around it. Where all the wires were wrapped together there looked like some square block wrapped in with the wires in the electrical tape although its certainly not in an accessible spot which seems odd for a fuse. Its wire tied to the fibre glass in a small cavity up and away from the switch and pump. This could be it I hope and will report back.

Failing that, I am certainly going to take the suggestions above and start to solve this once and for all. It could be the switch itself and cutting the wires to check for 12V would be an easy check.

I'll let you all know how I fare.

Jon

shrew · 07-24-2012, 01:47 PM

What are the colors of the wires connected to the block?

jpr993 · 07-25-2012, 03:09 AM

Hi Shrew - the colors are black and brown (if I recall correctly). They do in fact go into the fridge cavity too. I tried to pull the fridge but it won't budge. Removed the four screws on the trim facia and it was stuck in there. I didn't want to bend the frame by pulling too hard. Plus, the edges are sharp and I had no gloves with me.

Jon