Boat stalling after about 5-10 seconds - Maxum Boat Owners Club

wgalmond · 05-21-2014, 03:47 AM

Hi, I would like to post a question to see if anyone else has encountered this same problem. I suspect yes because it seems like an common issue that I just can't figure out yet.

I have a 2000 Maxum SCR2400, 5.0L Merc, 220HP, Alpha 1 Gen 2. The boat is still on stands from the winter. I put the earmuffs on the outdrive and connect a hose to run water to the outdrive. The boat starts up immediately (after recently replacing the slave solenoid on the engine block), but then only will run for about 5-10 seconds then stalls out. When I start the boat I only gave it s few pumps, to prime with gasoline, so I know it's no flooded. Just before it stalls out, I hear and see the RPM's start to raise higher then dies out. I try again and again to start the boat, but still will do the same exact thing. Only running for about 5-10 seconds.

I am not great with engines but can get around with the help of others. I am looking for suggestions on what I can look for.

Thanks in advance for the assistance! Can't wait to get her in the water for the season!

cruz'r · 05-21-2014, 07:39 AM

I have the very same boat 2000 Maxum 2400 SCR and same engine. I had similar problem not too long ago, mine was dying when I accelerate, took it to the shop and found out that my carburetor was corroded, replaced with brand new carburetor and now runs great.

mmwjr · 05-21-2014, 12:46 PM

wgalmond I believe this engine has an electric fuel pump. If I am correct it gets powered by the starter when starting and once oil pressue is achieve power comes from a oil pressure switch. If the switch is bad or oil pressure is low the switch will be open and no power is applied to the pump which means no gas. Find the fuel filter and trance the gas line up to the carb if you come across a can about the height of a soda can and hald the diameter it's the electric fuel pump. The OP (oil pressure switch) is located on the block just above the oil filter or where the remote filter hoses attache to the block (port side far back and low).

wgalmond · 05-21-2014, 02:07 PM

Thanks Cruz'r. I actually had the carb rebuilt and cleaned up either last season, or just the season before. And ran great. I looked at it again, and seems to be in good shape still and the moving flap etc, seem to be ok. I will double check some more though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruz'r

I have the very same boat 2000 Maxum 2400 SCR and same engine. I had similar problem not too long ago, mine was dying when I accelerate, took it to the shop and found out that my carburetor was corroded, replaced with brand new carburetor and now runs great.

wgalmond · 05-21-2014, 02:09 PM

Hey Mike, I will be going down to the boat in a little while. I will be sure to track this down to check it out. Thanks for the advice, I will see what I can do to check it out.

mmwjr · 05-21-2014, 04:17 PM

You can make a jumper using 2 spade lugs with a piece of wire crimped between them. Them pull the 2 wires off the OP and use the pumper to complete the circuit. Once started verify the oil pressure is good so you don't destroy the engine.

Search on HarryLady post from last year, same problem.

wgalmond · 05-21-2014, 06:05 PM

Thanks for the tip. So I just replaced the fuel water separator as part of my routine for summer, and after a bit it now seems to start and stay running longer. It will run for a few mins then die out. And seems to die quicker when I give it some throttle.

I notice the oil pressure gauge jumped right to 40 upon running. I know its tyipcally around 50/60 when cruising, but curious if it should jump right to 40 when its started up.

I will be checking the OP switch now and see if I can create the jumper with what you describe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmwjr

You can make a jumper using 2 spade lugs with a piece of wire crimped between them. Them pull the 2 wires off the OP and use the pumper to complete the circuit. Once started verify the oil pressure is good so you don't destroy the engine.

Search on HarryLady post from last year, same problem.

Phillbo · 05-21-2014, 06:39 PM

Sounds like it is starving for fuel.

wgalmond · 05-21-2014, 07:20 PM

I just pulled the wires from the OP switch and they were a little corroded...I cleaned them off and plugged them back on. Start the boat right up....and same thing. Run's for about a min or so (where as yesterday was just 5-7 seconds) And just dies out. I agree, that is seems like starving for fuel, just needing to track it down. I can try the jumper thing on the two leads of the OP switch to see if that works, and keeps it running....Aside from that, I am still stumped.

mmwjr · 05-21-2014, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wgalmond

I just pulled the wires from the OP switch and they were a little corroded...I cleaned them off and plugged them back on. Start the boat right up....and same thing. Run's for about a min or so (where as yesterday was just 5-7 seconds) And just dies out. I agree, that is seems like starving for fuel, just needing to track it down. I can try the jumper thing on the two leads of the OP switch to see if that works, and keeps it running....Aside from that, I am still stumped.

Yes that is what I suggested to make a jumper to fit between the OP switch wires. This is the same as the OP switch closing when it senses oil pressure.

Capt Al · 05-21-2014, 10:47 PM

Other than the distributor sensor going, my stalling issues have always been carburetor related. I've had my 2 barrel carb rebuilt twice and will probably have to again eventually. Why? Ethanol in the gas. My carb repair shop's business is booming because ethanol ruins many parts from rubber to fiberglass gas tanks....

wgalmond · 05-22-2014, 02:28 PM

Thanks for all the help guys....I made the jumper as suggested and pulled the wires from the OP switch. Jumped together, and started her up. Ran for 5 plus minutes no issues.....compared to 5 seconds, and 1 min this is good

Then I plugged the connectors back on the switch to normal configuration, started her back up and sure enough, she stalled out after 1 min. So I was able to recreate the problem, and prove out the switch.

Went to a marine shop, picked up the part (which is a new design now) and started to remove the old switch. Ran into a few issues removing it so and much of the plastic parts broke off. However, I see the issue now as I have to fully removed the other half of the metal piece and basically unscrew it from a fitting that mounts to the block. After racking my brain, and fighting daylight, I had to call it quits last night....but I have a high degree of confidence now that I just need to remove the last piece of the metal switch/sensor and attach the new one and will be good to go.

I will update later tonight and with pics if I can to help others as I have been helped!

More to follow.....

Thanks again! Bill

mmwjr · 05-22-2014, 04:55 PM

Cool glad it is an easy enough fix.

BTY: there should be a square head on the back of the old one that you can put a wrench on to unscrew it.

Nehalennia · 05-23-2014, 05:14 PM

Good find and fix.

wgalmond · 05-23-2014, 07:47 PM

Hey guys, back again.....well after finally getting the old OP switch off and the new one installed, I am back to square 1, where it stalls after about 5 seconds. I even trie dhte switch by pass trick with a jumper, but still the same results....Strange, because when I ran bypassed mode the other day, with a jumper it ran fine. But not today.

There is another canister looking thing there as well, what is that? Is that another type of sensor? Would that be causing this issue now?

Thanks again for the help....feeling frustrated again here...so thoughts are welcome!

mmwjr · 05-24-2014, 02:15 AM

The OP switch has two wire that connect to it and would be the part from keeping the fuel pump from running. The other part is the oil pressure sensor that has one wire that connects to the oil gauge at the helm.

If the jumper worked before but not know I would question if the connectors on the harness are bad or loose. You could try jumping 12V to the fuel pump to see if it will stay running.

wgalmond · 05-24-2014, 07:50 AM

Thanks again Mike, that's exactly what the issue was. Prior to reading this post again, I went ahead and cut he harness off the purple/yellow, purple wires and used butt connectors and heat shrunk them together with the new OP switch wires. Problem solved.

Thanks again! Bill

mmwjr · 05-24-2014, 11:52 AM

Bill glad to hear you resolved it, now go an enjoy the season.

wgalmond · 05-27-2014, 09:59 PM

Thanks Mike....took her out for the first ride of the season yesterday. Ran great! No issues starting or continuing to run. But every now and again, I would hear the audible alarm sound when I am throttling up. Looking at the causes of the audible, its temp/gear fluid, or OP. However, all were in normal operating range. Only happened a few times, however. Not sure if it's something to be worried about or not??

mmwjr · 05-28-2014, 01:01 AM

I have heard some issues with the lube sensor bouncing on wakes going off. If the fluid is a max line try disconnecting the sensor wire on it to see if the alarm stops.

Can also try this on temp and OP sensors one at a time until you isolate which one is causing it then you determine how to resolve.