There has to be a trick: Access behind Dash 1997 2100 sc

[tdouce]

I need to do some work on my gauges on my 1997 2100 sc. It is next to impossible to get at the top gauges from underneath with tools.

Can anyone point me to any resources which may know if there is a way to "open" or remove the the dash to do the work properly?

Thank you,

tdouce

[shrew]

Welcome aboard tdouce. Remove the dash panel, the guages are mounted to teh back of the panel. When you remove the panel, the gauges come with it. Best of luck.

[tdouce]

Originally Posted by shrew

Welcome aboard tdouce. Remove the dash panel, the gauges are mounted to the back of the panel. When you remove the panel, the gauges come with it. Best of luck.

Thanks for the response Shrew. Are you familiar with this model of boat?

I'm not sure what is involved in removing the dash panel, that is the reason for my question. The dash area has a larger fiberglass component which appear like it may remove, but not sure where all the fasteners are. There are a number of screws from the steering console into the lower section of dash which are obvious but there also seems to be others behind the gunnels to the right (starboard) side of the dash.

There also is a separate wood grain plastic overlay inset on the larger grey dash which looks like it may come out but I can find no fasteners for it.

Thanks again,
tdouce

[tdouce]

Picture of the 1997 2100 SC dash

[mcoffey]

I have not had the gauge panel off yet but have had the one below it (the one with Stereo and Depth Sounder) as well as the one below it (the one with the switches and 12v power plug). Both of those are held on by double sided foam tape. Just go to the hardwre and buy a roll of 3/M 1/2 wide foam tape, then remove the panels, scrape old tape off and put new on. I assume the gauge panel is the same but cannot be 100% sure, sorry.

Mine was 1996 2100SR so almost the exact same boat :-)

Good luck and let us know what you find.

[tdouce]

Originally Posted by mcoffey

I have not had the gauge panel off yet but have had the one below it (the one with Stereo and Depth Sounder) as well as the one below it (the one with the switches and 12v power plug). Both of those are held on by double sided foam tape. Just go to the hardwre and buy a roll of 3/M 1/2 wide foam tape, then remove the panels, scrape old tape off and put new on. I assume the gauge panel is the same but cannot be 100% sure, sorry.

Mine was 1996 2100SR so almost the exact same boat :-)

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Thank you for the response mcoffey,

Just to be certain I am understanding your experience. The section to remove in the picture above would be the woodgrain plastic.
This seems very thin and possibly brittle. I'm sure care is needed when prying that off.

I wont have an opportunity for a couple of weeks to try this, but will be sure to get some pictures to share with any others considering this effort.

tdouce

[mcoffey]

Yes, that is correct. It was surprisingly strong and not brittle at all on mine. I would take care just to be safe but the tape should not be too hard to break free. Just need to get something between the panel and the dash to get it started and it should just start coming loose as you work around it.

[shrew]

Interesting. My 2800 is a 1997 as well. I didn't expect there to be that much variation. Mine has screws mounting the dash panel in place. Just unscrew it and remove it. Mine is the same faux burlwood that you are showing. However, mine is metal that has a wood image veneer on it and some kind of epoxy/varnish on it. It looks like plastic made to look like wood. However, mine is metal made to look like wood that looks like plastic that looks like wood instead.

[mmwjr]

My 1997 2400 SCR has plastic made to look like wood and is held on by screws. So many variations

When working to pull the panel off you may want to use a heat gun on low to soften the adhesive but be very carefull not to melt anything.

[mcoffey]

Here is a pic of my one panel removed. Took this pic to keep the switch wires straight when re-assembling with new switches.