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07-16-2014, 09:51 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Newbie 1999 Maxum 1800 SR 3.0l Alpha I Gen II questions
Hello all,
My name is Brian and a newbie boat owner from Nebraska. I recently purchased a 1999 Maxum 1800 SR, with the 3.0L Mercruiser, Alpha I Gen II. The previous owner used the boat for three seasons, and recently upgraded to a bigger boat. While looking at the boat, I got to test drive it on the water and everything seemed great, and the owner was upfront with any repairs/maintenance he had done since owning the boat. We bought the boat and took a 3 day weekend to get out on the water and get our sea legs.
The first and second day we spent about 4-5 hours on the water, mostly cruising along, and stopping in different spots to throw out the anchor and swim. The last day was the same as the first two, besides the water started to get rough and we decided to head to the dock and come home. I was heading to the dock at about 15mph, and the motor stalled. I started it back up and it ran for a few minutes before stalling again. Now when I went to turn the key, it would click and crank the wheel all the way to one side. I brought prop out of the water to make sure nothing had wrapped around it, and then lowered it back in the water. I tried the key again, with the same result. We ended up getting towed back to the dock, and after I got it on the trailer, I tried the key again, with the same result.
I pulled the boat back to my parents, and checked the lower unit oil. The oil was about two inches down from the vent hole. I then pulled the drain plug, and noticed a lot of metal shards on the magnet. I called the only boat place in town, and they said it could have sheared a gear off in the top unit? Or the bottom unit went out? They wouldn't be sure until they looked at it. Understandable, but the first time they have available is 3 weeks away. I found this forum while searching for possible answers to my problems, and thought this would be a good place to start.
Thanks in advance,
Brian
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07-17-2014, 02:02 AM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Brian welcome aboard.
What do you mean by it would click and crank the wheel all the way to one side? What do you mean by wheel?
If you have metal in the gear lube something if toast. Being that the lube was low the upper gears were not getting proper lubricant. The metal will get into the other gears and bearings and the result is yo rebuild or replace the out drive. You can buy and replaced the unit yourself if you know how to turn a few bolts.
If the lube was low it may have been due to bad seals which can also let water into the drive making things worse.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-17-2014, 02:46 PM
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#3
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Captain
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 556
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Brian,
What size are the metal shards on the magnet? Flakes are normal. I change my gear oil every year and the drain plug always has fuzz on it. Was there any metal in the oil that you drained from the lower unit? Also, how do you know that the lower unit oil level was 2 inches below the vent hole. You should have a gear oil reservoir bottle located on the engine. Was it empty?
I'm trying to make the connection between gear lube oil problems and a stalling engine. You may not have a gear lube problem though, depending on what you define as a "metal shard".
I'm also interested in how you answer Mike's question. Sometimes the clicking can be a weak battery or bad starter/starter solenoid. I'm not clear on what "crank the wheel" means. Some pictures would help if you are able to post them.
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07-17-2014, 04:46 PM
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#4
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Commander
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 289
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Brian,
Step one: Remove the outdrive and see if the motor spins freely and if the leg is locked up. That will point you in the direction to determine what needs to be looked at.
-JP
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07-17-2014, 07:59 PM
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#5
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
What do you mean by it would click and crank the wheel all the way to one side? What do you mean by wheel?
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mmwjr-
Thank you for your reply. When I would turn the key to start, the engine would not turn over, but hard click, and rock to one side, and the steering wheel would turn, and the out drive would swing over to the side. Much like when you turn the steering wheel when everything is operating normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
If you have metal in the gear lube something if toast. Being that the lube was low the upper gears were not getting proper lubricant. The metal will get into the other gears and bearings and the result is yo rebuild or replace the out drive. You can buy and replaced the unit yourself if you know how to turn a few bolts.
If the lube was low it may have been due to bad seals which can also let water into the drive making things worse.
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I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and work on cars, motorcycles, atvs, etc..., but boats are pretty foreign to me.
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07-17-2014, 08:09 PM
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#6
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrsick
Brian,
What size are the metal shards on the magnet? Flakes are normal. I change my gear oil every year and the drain plug always has fuzz on it. Was there any metal in the oil that you drained from the lower unit? Also, how do you know that the lower unit oil level was 2 inches below the vent hole. You should have a gear oil reservoir bottle located on the engine. Was it empty?
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jrsick-
I will attempt to attach a picture of the shards I wiped off of the magnet. I did not drain all of the oil from the lower unit, so I am not sure how much or if any metal was in the oil. I pulled the plug, and then blocked it so the rest did not all drain out.
Yes, it does have a gear oil reservoir bottle located on the engine, and before we took the boat out I was pretty sure the level was fine, but I honestly can't remember. The previous owner said he had just topped it off, so I wasn't to worried. (Guess I should have been )
As far as the oil being two inches below the vent hole, I just poked a wire in the vent hole to see if there was any fluid. I had to push the wire in about 2 inches to get fluid on the wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrsick
I'm trying to make the connection between gear lube oil problems and a stalling engine. You may not have a gear lube problem though, depending on what you define as a "metal shard".
I'm also interested in how you answer Mike's question. Sometimes the clicking can be a weak battery or bad starter/starter solenoid. I'm not clear on what "crank the wheel" means. Some pictures would help if you are able to post them.
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I thought it might have been the battery at first, but when I got it back to my dad's shop, I checked the connections, and tested the battery and it was fine. Everything else that the battery runs operates fine, and not like it is low on juice. I hope my response to Mike cleared up the "crank the wheel". I apologize for being such a newbie.
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07-17-2014, 09:51 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Either the drive is locked up or the engine is. Remove the drive and see it the engine will turn over.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-17-2014, 10:46 PM
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#8
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Either the drive is locked up or the engine is. Remove the drive and see it the engine will turn over.
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Thanks Mike.
So something like this?
Or is there another way to determine it with out removing it?
Brian
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07-18-2014, 02:15 AM
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#9
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Sorry on the iPad tonight and the you tube does not play.
Only 6 bolts that hold the drive onto the bell housing plus the 2 nuts to remove the rams. Try googling removal of merc out drive.
BTY was the alarm going off from the lube reservoir being empty? Should have been.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-18-2014, 02:22 AM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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That is a fair amount of metal that came out.
Price new and rebuilt drives on line as well as SEI for an aftermarket.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-18-2014, 05:02 AM
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#11
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Sorry on the iPad tonight and the you tube does not play.
Only 6 bolts that hold the drive onto the bell housing plus the 2 nuts to remove the rams. Try googling removal of merc out drive.
BTY was the alarm going off from the lube reservoir being empty? Should have been.
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Mike,
There weren't nany alams going off. Not sure where those are or what to look for?
Thanks
Brian
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07-18-2014, 12:37 PM
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#12
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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I was able to watch the you tube on my PC today, yep that is how it is done. One thing it did not tell you is to put the shifter into forward wich must be done.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-18-2014, 12:39 PM
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#13
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Check to see if the 2 wires are connected at the reservior.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-18-2014, 01:44 PM
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#14
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Thanks for the information Mike, I will check the 2 wires on the reservoir tonight after work.
Thanks again,
Brian
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07-19-2014, 05:47 PM
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#15
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Watersedge Dundalk
Posts: 78
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If cranking the engine caused the steering wheel to turn it could be the universal joint
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07-19-2014, 11:35 PM
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#16
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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Mike,
I checked the reservoir, and the wires are all connected. Is there a fuse or something for this, because no alarms were going off?
Mrx,
Is there a way to check the universal joint? Or does the out drive need removed to check that?
Thanks
Brian
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07-20-2014, 01:47 AM
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#17
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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I will have to check but I do not believe there is a fuse and the wiring is protected but the engine breaker.
Yes to check the u-joints the drive needs to come off.
If the shifter is in neutral can you turn the prop clockwise and counterclockwise?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-20-2014, 01:51 AM
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#18
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Try grounding the tan/blue wire, if the alarm does not sound located the buzzer and try doing the same. If it still does not work check for 12 V on the purple wire.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-23-2014, 04:11 PM
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#19
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 8
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I ended up taking the boat to a professional, I just couldn't make the time to troubleshoot it myself, and lacked the confidence to do so. I should hear back at by the end of this week. I will keep you posted what the outcome is.
Thanks again for all the help.
Brian
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10-13-2014, 04:41 AM
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#20
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Ensign
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
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What was the outcome?
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