Thinking about adding an amplifier to the radio

[oneradride]

With the use of 2 line output converters on powered wires, yes. You cannot run powered head unit wires to an amp.
Or use the 2 RCA's and 2 powered wires with one converter for both fade and balance.

[jrings]

Originally Posted by oneradride

With the use of 2 line output converters on powered wires, yes. You cannot run powered head unit wires to an amp.
Or use the 2 RCA's and 2 powered wires with one converter for both fade and balance.

Thanks, that is good to know... As far as specs when looking for a good amp what do I need to pay particular attention to? For example, in my previous posts I included a link for a JBL MA6004. It was rated to 4 x 60watts. I found a PowerAcoustik D4-1000B this morning that is rated for 4 x 80watts. I know there is a lot more I should be looking at other than just wattage right? Below are 2 examples. If you wouldn't mind pointing out the goods and the bads that would be helpful. Thanks again!

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...on-Series.html

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...Amplifier.html

[ss3964spd]

Actually, in a boat application, wattage is what you're looking for. Let's face it, you won't be doing any critical listening. All you want is good, reasonably clean, sound and pleanty of it.

IMO, to make this a painless as possible, I would change the existing stereo to a "head unit" (head units contain all the electronics but do not contain built in amplifiers like your current unit does). Head units almost always have 2 sets of RCA (line level) jacks. Then pick a 4 channel amp from the same manufacturer to ease the wiring.

You can do Y splitters but you will lose a little signal and therefore may not be able to drive the amp to it's rated output.

Where are the existing speakers located? Location plays an enormous role.

[oneradride]

Get as much amp as you can afford (within reason of course).... if it's too much you can always back off the gain controls. You may want to upgrade your speakers down the road, then you can readjust the gain controls accordingly without having to redo the entire system.

[jrings]

I have 2 more that i am considering. Please give me an opinion on which of the 4 links (2 of the links in the post above) looks like the best bang for my buck...

http://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-NAU46...617020&sr=1-10

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-84...0617166&sr=1-1

[GlennW]

Both are quality products and as mentioned you will need more wattage than say in a car cabin. My rule of thumb is to spend more than you want to, in my case double.
You don't want that empty feeling 2 months down the road saying "I wish I had spent more money", been there.
Go a little bit overboard, I have the capabilities of pushing almost 1400 true watts with my system, will I ever use it...most likely not.
If you underpower you will always over heat and have to shut down to reset.
Pay attention to what you buy, class A/B amps are rated at 14.v volts, this is only achieved while the alternator is running or you have caps for reserve installed.
Class D are rated closer to the 12v's that our batteries push out without the electricle support of engines running etc.
Some of the ratings you will see are maxed @ lower ohms such as 2 or 1, which is not a bad thing especially when setting up subs if you choose to bo that route. But make sure the amp is stable for this.
Summer is not quite here yet so sit back, read up a little, set back a few more pennies over the next month or so and you will be much more happy with what you achieve, and who knows I might end up on your Christmas card list

[jrings]

UPDATE:
I ended up getting the JBL marine amp MA6004 4 channel amp. I have it mostly installed along with a new head unit. My question for all the audio guru's is that right now I have the amp wired to be turned on with the head unit as the wiring diagram showed (blue remote wire). My question is that I would really like the ability to control whether the amp is on or off instead of having it turn on whenever the radio is on. Reason being that If my family is anchored listening to a Reds game for example I don't necessarily need to have the amp on using up juice. However if I am anchored drinking cocktails with all my buddies and want the radio jamming I do want the amp on. I believe instead of using the remote wire from my radio or head unit I can just use one of my unused accessory toggles on my dash to turn on the amp...?? Is my thinking correct?

[ss3964spd]

Sure, you could use a toggle - assuming it has the amp capacity. Otherwise you'd have to install a relay that is triggered by the toggle.

Question though; if the head unit has no built in amp, or if it does but you're not using it, why would you want to run the head unit and not the amp?

Dan

[mcoffey]

Yeah, I'm kinda with Dan here. I am not even sure if sound will pass through an AMP that is powered off. Remember that the RCA pre-amp outs are line level so even if it does pass something, it will be really, really low. Speakers need some sort or wattage to get anything out of them.

As for the switch though, should work fine. It is all low amp too as it just energizes a relay in the amp, it does not actually power the amp.

[ss3964spd]

Originally Posted by mcoffey

It is all low amp too as it just energizes a relay in the amp, it does not actually power the amp.

Good point - could use the toggle to energize the blue wire which will then switch the amp on. Only thing I don't know is if that blue remore on/off wire is 12V or not. You could use a multi meter and check what the voltage is on the blue wire coming out of the head unit when the head is turned on.

No, if you have all your speakers connected to the external amp you won't get any sound from them unless the amp is on.

Dan

[mcoffey]

Maybe a second battery with an isolator would be a better option here? You can then run it all day till she kills the second battery, then just start it up and let the alternator do it's job
That or carry around a jump box as a safety net.

I like the isolator route if it were me. here is one (even marine grade) for only $63.00. That plus an extra battery, batter tray and some wiring, you are all set.
http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Battery...view_id.237463

if you are not familar with these, they allow you to connect 2 batteries to the alternator so they can be charged. It isolates them though so draw on one battery cannot pull from the other (it allows voltage to flow 1 direction only, kinda like a diode).
There are also manual battery disconnect switches too but you have to remember to "switch" them

[jrings]

wow, this is much more complicated than I thought... Just to clarify I already have 2 batteries and a manual switch so I already have a little safety factor so I won't strand myself by killing the batteries. Maybe one but not both... Good point about the low level stuff, all this may be a mute point if no sound passes thru the amp if it is off... Perhaps I will give it a shot this weekend.

[ss3964spd]

J,

I can tell you that no sound will pass through - not even a whisper, if you have the speakers wired to the external amp and it isn't turned on.

Dan

[jrings]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

J,

I can tell you that no sound will pass through - not even a whisper, if you have the speakers wired to the external amp and it isn't turned on.

Dan

ok. sounds like I don't even need to try... Thanks. I will just leave it like it is. As the saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it... Thanks again for all the expertise.

[jrings]

Finally got it installed.

[ss3964spd]

Sweet.

Pleased with the results?

[jrings]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Sweet.

Pleased with the results?

Not real sure yet but initially yes. I am still trying to figure out how you are supposed to adjust the crossover or gain screws...

[Warpa1]

Unless running a multiple speaker system those adjustments wont do a lot, They are more for fully active systems, one amp for tweeters, one for midrange, one for bass and a few for subsonic if i remember correctly from my car audio build days. The crossover scres will just cut off certain frequencied to certain speakers (stops you pumping full range inc bass thru tweeters and blowing them) The gain just increases the output soarce like the volume controll without distorting it....but with a full range speaker setup you wont benefit from any of that.
If you do have a full range setup then many appologies as i have not read the whole thread Will read it now lol

[oneradride]

Looks like a real nice install.. only one thing I might change.. Your ground wire (at least from the picture) looks to be insufficient, especially considering the length.. probably 5 or more feet to the negative source. Typically want to use the same gauge as the power and I always use one of those star washers to make SURE it really digs in.

[jrings]

Originally Posted by oneradride

Looks like a real nice install.. only one thing I might change.. Your ground wire (at least from the picture) looks to be insufficient, especially considering the length.. probably 5 or more feet to the negative source. Typically want to use the same gauge as the power and I always use one of those star washers to make SURE it really digs in.

I will change that, thanks for the tip!