Repainting a used 2300sc -tips, help, suggestions, parts recommendations

[makim]

hi guys

New to the forum Just bought my first boat 97" Maxum 2300

It's in ok shape but I want to completelly rebuild and paint this thing.

I'm sure many of us have done it or are thinking about repainting their boat, so if you know something about it, or have suggestions please share them with everybody.

Ex. sanding, what grid paper,
Paint, where to buy, what kind, best marine paints etc
Clear coat
fiberglass repair kits,



let's make it a sticky !


Pete

[biggerseagar]

First of all Pete....... "Welcome"! There are alot of great people here just dying help one another.....

I had a 1988 2150 Bayliner that I had painted by a marina back in the early 90's. Got tried of the bayliner blue and went for a ford teal. What they did at the marina since your dealing with spraying over a gelcoat was to sand or ruff it up enough for the paint to stick and that was it. I believe they used a imron type paint. Now this was only for the upper part of the boat because the rest was white and I left it alone (above the water line) I did not clear coat it after wards. It did turn out fantastic, I had a new rub rail put on since my ex had beat the crap out of it trying to dock the poor boat and that made all the diference ( it was a all black rubrail).

Head down to your marina or your car paint shop and I'm sure thet can help you with what is the latest and best thing to use. A lot of time and elbow grease on your end if you do this all by yourself! Have fun and take pictures!

Roger

[ed & inge]

hai pete,

ther's a special polyesther paint on the market for boats....just sand the boat (with the machine offcourse)....repair all the cracks and damages and then use a poly primer and give her a colour. if you buy a good quality boat paint, you dont have to use a clear coat, but it gives a better protection against the weather and keeps the colour longer the way it is....

greatz, ed

[shrew]

Moved the thread from "GENERAL' to "PROJECTS'.


Makim,
Welcome aboard. got any pics of the boat and the challenges with its condition?

Take a look at the following products:

Imron

Awlgrip

Poly Glow

Gelcoat paint will be a 2 part epoxy. It can be sprayed or rolled and tipped. you typically have to work in small batches in small areas as the epoxy hardens quickly. You may simply need to use an agressive compound like a 3M restorer or rubbing compound depending on how much gelcoat oxidation you're dealing with.

What is the real problem/goal you're going for in a repaint?

[makim]

thanks for the warm welcome guys

Originally Posted by biggerseagar

First of all Pete....... "Welcome"! There are alot of great people here just dying help one another.....

I had a 1988 2150 Bayliner that I had painted by a marina back in the early 90's. Got tried of the bayliner blue and went for a ford teal. What they did at the marina since your dealing with spraying over a gelcoat was to sand or ruff it up enough for the paint to stick and that was it. I believe they used a imron type paint. Now this was only for the upper part of the boat because the rest was white and I left it alone (above the water line) I did not clear coat it after wards. It did turn out fantastic, I had a new rub rail put on since my ex had beat the crap out of it trying to dock the poor boat and that made all the diference ( it was a all black rubrail).

Head down to your marina or your car paint shop and I'm sure thet can help you with what is the latest and best thing to use. A lot of time and elbow grease on your end if you do this all by yourself! Have fun and take pictures!

Roger

my friend has an auto repair business so as long as I do it myself, painting is free!
I wanna take my time and it right the first time

[makim]

Originally Posted by ed & inge

hai pete,

ther's a special polyesther paint on the market for boats....just sand the boat (with the machine offcourse)....repair all the cracks and damages and then use a poly primer and give her a colour. if you buy a good quality boat paint, you dont have to use a clear coat, but it gives a better protection against the weather and keeps the colour longer the way it is....

greatz, ed

what grit paper should I use on an old paint, I don't want to remove too much fiberglass (a bit paranoid, I know)


any DIY videos out there?




I forgot to ask, what about old deck that looks pretty much yellow now, is there any way to bring it back to original color. I'm not sure if it's dirt or fiberglass discoloration.

[ss3964spd]

Before you dive into this Pete, are you certain the transom, stringers, and deck are solid?

Dan

[seapuppy]

first off...welcome to the zoo...2nd is I've seen several boats repainted where I live and they use either awlgrip or a similar gelcoat....depending on how badly it's dinged up or cracked....you may get away with just a 1000 grt sanding to get the oxidation knocked down and then a fine grit compounding finally to a nice finish with a good polish/wax...I don't recommend putting a clear coat on as the sun/salt/water will have a tendancy to yellow the clear coat....besides..the gelcoat is designed to keep it's color and not yellow....in most cases that is....

as for the application....if you have dings/cracks...you'll need to grind them out and use filler to smooth it out and then using finer grit papers...smooth and feather the damaged areas out until even and smooth with the rest of the glass...then spray with gelcoat..

finally the application of the gel coat ...depending on what airgun your using ...you will want to cut the gelcoat down according to the manufacturers instructions....each are different....then spray a coat on...let sit...wetsand with 1000grt paper.....apply another coat....until you build up about a 1/16th inch of gelcoat....wet sand , fine grit compound and then finally a polish/wax.....

SP

[njones]

I have a little experience with this......

http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...-Paint-Project

http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...Engine-Project


After stripe removal, i block sanded the entire hull with 3M 320 wet.

I used "USC Icing" finishing filler for my repair spots.

last step, I Then mixed soap and water and used 3m red roughing pads to wash down the areas to paint one last time. the pads leave just enough hatch to give the base something to adhere to.

make sure to wipe the entire area down with a surface prep like wax and grease remover or reducer if you dont have anything else and then tack cloth it right before you start spraying base.

if you go with base/clear, put your 1st couple coats of base on very dry or very light coats. you can get a lil more agressive with coverage with each coat after. allow about 15 min flash time between coats assuming its fairly warm and dry weather. go over entire hull with a tack cloth in between coats. make sure to get appropriate temp range reducer when you buy your supplies. with a large project, its critical to get the flash times to 10-20 min range. i ended up with 4 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. I used 3 qts of base and 1 gallon of clear to do what i did.

Im thrilled with how mine has held up. its looks just like it did when i rolled it out of the booth. Good luck! Let me know if i can help in any way.