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05-17-2015, 11:07 PM
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#21
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Thanks for the update, hope you are enjoying the project
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-12-2015, 10:56 PM
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#22
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Let the grinding begin.
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06-12-2015, 11:35 PM
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#23
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Way to hot in my parts to be doing that, nearly 100 today.
Well looks like the dirty work will be done soon and the reconstruction can begin.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-13-2015, 02:49 AM
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#24
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Do love seeing old boats being rescued!!!! Keep up the work and keep the pics coming!!!
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07-18-2015, 06:38 PM
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#25
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Sorry for the lack of updates. Hot as all get out, so work is slow, an hour here and there. I think the grinding is finally through except for the transom area. Pressure washed inside and out. Cleaned up the fuel tank and need to get it pressure checked. I think that I will chop the back off in the next couple of weeks and start rebuilding it.
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07-18-2015, 11:27 PM
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#26
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Looks like the hard part is over. Let the reconstruction begin.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-24-2015, 07:13 PM
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#27
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2015
Location: East Norriton, PA
Posts: 5
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Looks good so far. A lot of work trust me I know but it'll be worth it when your on the water.
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08-15-2015, 05:14 PM
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#28
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Update
Finally got chopped. Been so hot that I worked on other inside stuff. Cleaned and repainted consoles, repaired steering and restored the ski locker. Removed and cleaned the windshields, rub rails, horn, lights and window trim. Slow but fun.
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08-15-2015, 08:26 PM
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#29
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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That's one gutted boat.
Looking forward to seeing the finished project, bet you are as well. 
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-16-2015, 06:05 PM
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#30
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Fiberglass question
How much of the gelcoat needs to be removed (grinded) before tabbing in the stringers and decking? Is it ok to just clean real well with acetone and apply fiberglass and resin over the old gelcoat?
Got the transom wood out and all surrounding areas grinded to fresh fiberglass this morning. Small victories...
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08-16-2015, 11:27 PM
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#31
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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I am not experienced in glass work but from what I know it should be tapered back with the lowest down to the glass mat material.
I have not seen many post work on this site but there are several threads on the Bayliner owners site on this topic.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-04-2015, 02:54 PM
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#32
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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transom work
Finally got around to grinding the transom area and rebuilding the transom. 2 sheets of 5/8" ply glued with PL Premium 8X and coated with 5 coats of a marine grade varnish. Try to get it glued in this weekend. Rebuilt the table with what I could salvage of the trim. Got some 1708, cobosil and chopped strands in that I plan on tabbing and skinning the transom in with.
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09-04-2015, 06:02 PM
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#33
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Typically folks bond in the transom wood one layer at a time as it is not completely flat. Easier to get a single piece to flex then the entire stack up.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-04-2015, 07:48 PM
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#34
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Glued in and tightened down for a couple of days. The transom area was actually really flat. I made several test fits to make sure all areas were grinded and smooth. Glued oozed out all around and inside holes after clamping with the 2x4 and bolts.
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09-05-2015, 04:22 AM
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#35
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Very good, most of these projects I have seen were for I/Os so the wood goes all the way across.
You say glue, what do you use?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-05-2015, 05:37 AM
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#36
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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PL Premium 3X with tile adhesive spreader to get good coverage. See the results Sunday and go from there.
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09-05-2015, 12:58 PM
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#37
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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That stuff is listed as water resistant not water proof, why did you not use epoxy resin the way it was originally built?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-06-2015, 10:04 PM
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#38
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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transom work
I thought that since the transom that came off had little if any adhesive properties, I would at least glue it to death. Since I am going to totally encase in resin and 1708, waterproofing with additional epoxy seemed overkill. If that is the only misstep I have, life is good. Got the transom PB'd in and the drain plug set in. Since this is the first time working with resin PB, first round hardened in about 10 minutes and I lost about half of a quart (too much hardener I think). Eased off next couple of batches and seemed easier, practice makes perfect. Had a little sanding to do after PB setup. Got the 1708 cut and ready to start tabbing.
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09-06-2015, 10:45 PM
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#39
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Yep working with epoxy resin is somewhat of an art.
Making good progress.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-27-2015, 05:00 PM
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#40
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 35
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Stringers
Transom in. Starting to rough fit the stringers. time consuming with multi angle and hull shape. Cut 1-1/2 inch holes in bottom of bulkheads and epoxied PVC pipe for drainage, better than the 1/2 inch previous. Using a 1x10 white boards for stringers and 5/8" ply for bulkheads. I will cover all parts with thin resin and add spacers to the bottom before gluing in.
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