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07-19-2021, 09:18 AM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Anyone have any thoughts on my wire diagram?
Hello, So I decided to rewire my entire battery/charging system. I have come up with this diagram to help me keep everything organized. Any one have any thoughts?
I plan on using proper marine tinned wires, and correct gauge sizing as well. I just need to know for sure what I have come up with is ok
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07-19-2021, 12:59 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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I would run the negative to the engine block directly from the batteries instead of from the negative buss bar.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-19-2021, 05:48 PM
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#3
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Captain
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mn.
Posts: 664
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Bilge pump needs to be connected straight to the batteries not through a switch.
Look to complicated to me.
Don
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1995 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7 A1 G2 LUNA DE MIEL SOLD
1988 Bayliner 2455 5.0 IO (sold)
1987 Seaswerl 18ft C. Cabin 4.3 IO(lost in fire)
2012 South Bay Pontoon
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07-19-2021, 07:01 PM
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#4
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
I would run the negative to the engine block directly from the batteries instead of from the negative buss bar.
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Ok, that makes more sense. Ill add an additional cable. Ive got all materials and hydraulic cable crimper to make custom lengths. I’ll have all the cables neatly tucked, labled.
Any other thoughts? Or all looks good?
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07-19-2021, 07:03 PM
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#5
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donald
Bilge pump needs to be connected straight to the batteries not through a switch.
Look to complicated to me.
Don
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Ive got it connected to the same stud terminal ad the cable coming from the battery. I do have a inline 5amp fuse tho
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07-19-2021, 08:40 PM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDamery
Ok, that makes more sense. Ill add an additional cable. Ive got all materials and hydraulic cable crimper to make custom lengths. I’ll have all the cables neatly tucked, labled.
Any other thoughts? Or all looks good?
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Is your battery charger a dual bank? If so I would run each banks output to either the batteries directly or to batt 1 and batt 2 of the selector switch.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-19-2021, 10:00 PM
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#7
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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I don’t believe it’s duel, that’s why I’ve got it to charge the house side, and then let the alternator charge the start battery with a Blue Sea system acr
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07-19-2021, 10:05 PM
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#8
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Oops forgot to put, it’s a true power combination 2000 pure sine wave….Inverter/Charger. I know I’ve seen set ups where they have this inverter plus an additional battery charger, I haven’t had the pleasure of taking the boat out and beating the crap out of the house batteries yet, I want to see if I will really need a bigger battery charger.
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07-19-2021, 11:07 PM
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#9
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Guess you’ll find out.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-20-2021, 03:23 AM
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#10
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Guess you’ll find out.
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Also is it necessary to fuse the cables coming from the ACR (the +)to the battery, since I will have a fuse on the negative for the ACR is it really necessary to fuse the other ones?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-20-2021, 12:07 PM
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#11
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Captain
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 522
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DC side looks ok. For the AC side, are you redirecting your shore power to the inverter and then using the inverter to pass-thru current when plugged in?
You are missing the bonding connection between the AC panel , the Ac output ground and the inverters case earth (which you do show going to the neg buss/engine block).
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07-20-2021, 12:52 PM
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#12
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDamery
Also is it necessary to fuse the cables coming from the ACR (the +)to the battery, since I will have a fuse on the negative for the ACR is it really necessary to fuse the other ones?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I only see one fuse in the drawing going from the house battery bank to the positive buss bar. Ignoring the bilge pump fuse that is. What does the ACR manufacturer recommend?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-21-2021, 06:07 AM
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#13
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparsons121
DC side looks ok. For the AC side, are you redirecting your shore power to the inverter and then using the inverter to pass-thru current when plugged in?
You are missing the bonding connection between the AC panel , the Ac output ground and the inverters case earth (which you do show going to the neg buss/engine block).
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Sorry for 20 questions, this is my first boat, but I’m not new to the automotive mechanical area; I do understand it’s completely different from vehicles. I’m trying to do everything the correct way to keep my family and myself safe. I guess I have become very paranoid in the last couple days as I saw a news story of a boat exploding because the fart fan wasn’t turned on in the engine room, and then my sister and her family were on a friends boat (all adults are in their 40’s) a few days later, and the same thing happened, they insisted the exhaust fan was on though,however it burned all of her arm hairs off, she was that damn close!
I am also connecting the TnT pump to the starter , wiring it parallel for power, unless you think thats bad. I have learned since posting this that I also need to wire my alternator to the house bat otherwise ill cause a relay cycling with the acr.
Is it overkill to put another 300anl fuse on start bat also? I have redrawn my wire diagram, when i get home I’ll snap another pic…it includes the ac panel
mmwjr:
Also is it necessary to fuse the cables coming from the ACR (the +)to the battery, since I will have a fuse on the negative for the ACR is it really necessary to fuse the other ones?
So after re-reading the manual, its only necessary to fuse the acr (+) cables incase there was physical damage caused to them…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-24-2021, 06:50 PM
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#14
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Sry for delay, currently in hospital for a wound that got greatly infected.. will post as soon as I can
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-24-2021, 08:30 PM
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#15
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDamery
Sry for delay, currently in hospital for a wound that got greatly infected.. will post as soon as I can
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Most importantly get yourself health first.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-14-2021, 11:25 PM
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#16
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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I still don’t have the wiring diagram drawn out yet, but another question I have, should I connect my alternator to the start battery? And then should I have my battery charger connected to the house battery? From what I’ve been reading I should have the alternator and the shore power battery charger both connected to the house battery and then have the start battery connected only through an ACR
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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08-16-2021, 12:44 PM
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#17
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Captain
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 522
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Alternator to starting battery.
That’s based upon my belief that having a fully charged battery for engine is a priority over any house loads.
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08-21-2021, 02:36 AM
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#18
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Ensign
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparsons121
Alternator to starting battery.
That’s based upon my belief that having a fully charged battery for engine is a priority over any house loads.
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Ok, that’s my belief too, but thrown off by all this damn reading and youtube video watching…
Thanks for helping me decide…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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