1997 20' SRF engine swap

[mmwjr]

If you want to replace them I would rent a balljoint/u-joint tool to press the old ones out and new ones in. May take a little time to fugure out with cups to use but should do the trick.

[oneradride]

Maybe mount the new ones in a vice and see how much “give” they have compared to the old ones? If you are like me and already have the parts... might as well use them O’Reilly’s Auto Parts and several others rent tools for free. (You pay for it up front but get your money back when returned)

[mmwjr]

stiches you left us hanging, any progress?

[stiches]

Not much progress, life keeps getting in the way. Been working on the rotten stringers and getting the motor ready. Will post pics soon.

[stiches]

On the subject of rot. For those who think they have a "little rot"[ATTACH][/ATTACH] Do you see the small rotten part on the left in the lower compartment?

[stiches]

I turns into this.

[mmwjr]

Don't you just hate when reality sets in.

[stiches]

This is a better view of the "small amount of rot" that I started with. I bought a quart of git rot to fix it. LOL

[stiches]

At least I was lucky, the transom and motor mounts were in good shape.

[stiches]

Might take more than a quart.

[stiches]

So I bought some marine grade ply and 20 yards of 1708 and 5 tyvec suits.

Almost need to start a new thread.

[stiches]

[stiches]

On a happier note the engine is running on a pallet!!

[stiches]

I know I had it test run where I bought it, but it was only a long block. Now it is ready to go in the boat- risers and everything.

[stiches]

Should I risk using the old risers and exhaust? The old stuff was in pretty good shape. Is there a dry joint riser?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by stiches

Should I risk using the old risers and exhaust? The old stuff was in pretty good shape. Is there a dry joint riser?

Yes there are dry joint risers.

Up to you on using the old exhaust, hard for us to tell over the net. If any doubt replace as you have too much invested to chance damaging it.

[stiches]

Hey everyone.

Sorry no updates for a while. The stringers and floor are almost done. The engine will go back in in 2 weeks. I just started to rebuild the lower leg and I have a question.

I'm replacing the impeller and I got a kit from Mallory marine. It came with a few random o-rings and a seal but no instructions and no seal tool. Can I properly install the seal without the tool?

Also, the carrier under the pump looks different. Do I add o-rings to it? Its a gen II.

I tried to find answers online but nobody ever replaces the carrier. One guy left the tool on the upper seal on the shaft.

[mmwjr]

Posting picture of the stringer rebuild would be acceptable

Not sure i am following you on the water pump, see link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxb8yJgniSQ

Are you sure the kit is for a Gen 2 and not a Gen 1?

[stiches]

Pictures coming soon.

Yeah, thats a great video. The problem is that he did not change the cone shaped thing under the plate. It is a seal carrier I guess.

I hope the kit is for a genII. The kit came with a SS plate, a SS housing, 2 1" O-rings, a small O-ring for the lube passage and the seal carrier. No instructions.

So the question is do the O-rings go in the seal carrier or in the water tube? Do I use perfect seal on the gaskets?

[mmwjr]

The 2 1" o-rings should go on the top of the drive shaft just below the splines.