Winterize - Maxum Boat Owners Club

Diggman33 · 10-03-2008, 05:53 PM

With boating season wrapping up for many of us, it's time to either shell out some hard owned dough or allocate a weekend for some manual frustration to perform the winterization ritual.

I would like to use this thread as a commonplace for winterization questions, suggestions and otherwise.

Question: I read that you should cap off your fuel tank as part of the winterization process. Is this typically done? What are the benefits or issues if you do fill the tank, and let it sit for 6 months?

Fair winds and following seas!
Steve

seapuppy · 10-03-2008, 10:30 PM

well..it's a good idea to keep all winterizing questions to 1 thread....that way we can store for later use...

So..with that said...I'd say not to cap off your fuel tank...just stick in fuel treatment..run it till you can feel it's into the carb system...then clamp off the fuel line till the engine dies from fuel starvation......also fog the engine at that time.....drain all water out of the fresh water side.....then winterize the different water tanks...fresh and san....since your way up north east....then you can shrink wrap the boat or if you store it in the garage.....make sure you have some proper heat or dryers going...to prevent mold..

SP..

dubble dippin · 10-06-2008, 11:39 AM

I believe that the filling of the tank would mostly concern locations where you get that nice cold weather followed by some mild days, then cycling back and forth like this all winter. This is the kind of weather we get in this part of Canada. Condensation will develop on the inside of the tanks if they are not full. The condensation can cause corrosion on the tank walls as well as water buildup in the tank.
On another winterising question---what is the best way to get all the water out of the fresh water system and then get some antifreeze in there

seapuppy · 10-06-2008, 03:49 PM

it's always good to keep the tank filled up due to temp differentials and condesations....
so..put a stabilizer in the tank to keep the gas fresh..and then pour antifreeze into the water tank and pump it thru the water system till it comes out of the faucets....

then pump some thru the toilet and let it get into the san tank..

when you recommision the boat..you'll pump all of the pink stuff out..then flush with fresh water and white vinegar...that will keep the water tank fairly fresh......

Sp

bmax · 10-10-2008, 01:50 AM

It's best to use an air compressor top blow the water out of the lines before adding the antifreeze. The plumbing anti freeze looses it's strength very fast when diluted with water. You may want to bypass the hot water tank (to save some anti freeze) but be sure to drain the HWT then add a few gallons of -50 RV anti freeze to the water tank and pump through the lines. I also leave a small amount in the toilet .

bmax

rgreenwell8962 · 10-14-2008, 03:19 AM

I am in the water on Lake WA all year. This is the first winter with the 2500. Any thoughts on winterizing since it rarely gets that cold???? I was thinking about a heater in the bilge, emptying the water and waste tank. What about the fresh water cooling system on the engine????

Thanks all

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 03:55 AM

just putting a heater in the salon will help alot..keeps the moisture level down...but you definitely don't want to put a heater in the engine bay unless it's CG approved....meaning no way to spark incase there is fuel vapor down there....so..other than that..if there is no ice below the waterline...then there will be no ice in the boat......gotta remember also that most docks will turn their dock water off too..which means you won't have water in the tank...the water tanks are pretty protected from wind...so shouldn't freeze either...

FWC is no big deal...that is just like your car...if you don't have any temps dropping to about 60 below...then the coolant won't freeze either...I'm just a few short miles north and our boat is dry stacked...so we keep heaters on inside the salon going..one is one of those tan looking dryers...and 2 small ceramic heaters going set at say about 45 degs....they come on only when it gets really cold to keep things from freezing inside the boat....might concider that ...or maybe even those dry-eze things..but your going to have to go once a week to empty those things...they really draw the water out of the salon....

hope this helps...

SP

rgreenwell8962 · 10-14-2008, 04:32 AM

THANKS! Any heater recommendations for the bilge area? Also, The FWC, I thought draws water in from outside as well. Either way, if I understand you correctly, I shouldnt have to worry about ice, correct? I plan on topping off the gas tank. Do I need to add any stabilizer to the fuel or oil?
If I do add stabilizer, but then decide to take a mid winter cruise, is that ok, or do I have to add it again after taking a midwinter trip???? Thanks for the input. Oh, I also have shut the seacock valve for the head. What else, hmmmmm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by seapuppy

just putting a heater in the salon will help alot..keeps the moisture level down...but you definitely don't want to put a heater in the engine bay unless it's CG approved....meaning no way to spark incase there is fuel vapor down there....so..other than that..if there is no ice below the waterline...then there will be no ice in the boat......gotta remember also that most docks will turn their dock water off too..which means you won't have water in the tank...the water tanks are pretty protected from wind...so shouldn't freeze either...

FWC is no big deal...that is just like your car...if you don't have any temps dropping to about 60 below...then the coolant won't freeze either...I'm just a few short miles north and our boat is dry stacked...so we keep heaters on inside the salon going..one is one of those tan looking dryers...and 2 small ceramic heaters going set at say about 45 degs....they come on only when it gets really cold to keep things from freezing inside the boat....might concider that ...or maybe even those dry-eze things..but your going to have to go once a week to empty those things...they really draw the water out of the salon....

hope this helps...

SP

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 04:48 PM

well..first off...yeah...if you burn the gas off to a near empty tank...you should put stabilizer back in when you top it off...but really ...gas is pretty stable now..it will probably last a few months if your gonna burn it off and the top off....I've burned gas that has sat for months and each yr and nothing has messed up my filters or anything else...just remember that if your going to long term store the boat..then yes..stabile is needed...for a few months...no...not needed....
your seacock for the head should be shut off anyway....your not supposed to dump into lake washington under any circumstances....

heater recommendations....well..I just found a block heater that is magnetic...connect it to a 110 vac extension chord...then stick it to the side of the block..it does get hot and will heat the block water up...unfortunately I can't remember the name...later on I'll call the place where I bought it and ask them what the name is and who makes it..it's a canadian company....maybe do a google search on it or something....anyway....any uscg approved heater can do the job.....but some people I know do this..they get one of those trouble lights and install a shop light..the kind that doesn't explode when they burn out or when banged...they stick one in the engine bay and then will seal the side vents ...keeps the air from blowing thru......I don't recommend this procedure...but some people do it.......

Sp

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 05:00 PM

try seattle marine & fishing supply
206-285-5010

I think these folks have just about everything....I'll check when I get home on the catalog...it's huge and they have everything ....

SP

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 05:26 PM

also try west marine's heater....USCG approved

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... SiteSearch

rgreenwell8962 · 10-14-2008, 05:50 PM

GREAT!!! This is good stuff, thanks again. As for the seacock, maybe I mis-spoke and called it a seacock when it is something else. I was speaking of the valve that allows water in to flush the toilet and then pass to the holding tank. I would never release into the lake or sound.
Thanks again

Quote:

Originally Posted by seapuppy

well..first off...yeah...if you burn the gas off to a near empty tank...you should put stabilizer back in when you top it off...but really ...gas is pretty stable now..it will probably last a few months if your gonna burn it off and the top off....I've burned gas that has sat for months and each yr and nothing has messed up my filters or anything else...just remember that if your going to long term store the boat..then yes..stabile is needed...for a few months...no...not needed....
your seacock for the head should be shut off anyway....your not supposed to dump into lake washington under any circumstances....

heater recommendations....well..I just found a block heater that is magnetic...connect it to a 110 vac extension chord...then stick it to the side of the block..it does get hot and will heat the block water up...unfortunately I can't remember the name...later on I'll call the place where I bought it and ask them what the name is and who makes it..it's a canadian company....maybe do a google search on it or something....anyway....any uscg approved heater can do the job.....but some people I know do this..they get one of those trouble lights and install a shop light..the kind that doesn't explode when they burn out or when banged...they stick one in the engine bay and then will seal the side vents ...keeps the air from blowing thru......I don't recommend this procedure...but some people do it.......

Sp

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 06:47 PM

in that case...yes...shut the intake hull valve to the head off just for safety...just remember if your going to use it...to turn the valve back on...

SP

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 07:44 PM

Actually got home for lunch and found my catalog from the fisheries supply store..this is the place I was trying to remember above..the addy is
www.fisheriessupply.com

they will send you a catalog free that is the size of the San Francisco phone book...huge and has just about everything.....check them out...

SP

seapuppy · 10-14-2008, 08:51 PM

I just got a 200wt/120vac magnetic block heater for about 65 bucks...for a small block 4 huffer it would be ok..but for a v8 you need 2 of them...

they are magnetic and called the
Heat magnet #4 by Phillips & Temro indust.
out of canada...

I have it attached to my raw water pump just to keep it from freezing this winter ..unlike last yr...

Sp

rgreenwell8962 · 10-15-2008, 05:33 AM

How about these two: the second one is the one you have, I think. Where did you get yours?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... yCode=3355

and

http://goshopping.thestar.com/shop/prod ... 50215.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by seapuppy

I just got a 200wt/120vac magnetic block heater for about 65 bucks...for a small block 4 huffer it would be ok..but for a v8 you need 2 of them...

they are magnetic and called the
Heat magnet #4 by Phillips & Temro indust.
out of canada...

I have it attached to my raw water pump just to keep it from freezing this winter ..unlike last yr...

Sp

seapuppy · 10-15-2008, 03:10 PM

yep...got the second one....it cost a bit more but might be constructed a little better.....

SP

dubble dippin · 10-15-2008, 07:29 PM

I just finished winterizing, all went well. But I do have a question. Everything I read says that I should have 5 drain plugs. I have twin 1999, 220 5.0 L's. I have only located 4 locations, the one that seems to be alluding me is the one on the block. On both engines I can locate the stbd side block drains but I can seem to find anything on the port sides. I've got both manifold drains and the ones at the bottom of the large hose coming off the T-stat housing. Will 1 manifold drain fully drain the block, is there only 1 plug on this model on the block.

CWERICB · 10-16-2008, 06:26 PM

For my two cents worth, it's not always practical to fill the tank before storage and some times the extra weight of the gas can be of concern.

I usually leave the tank half full or less and then fill it in the spring with fresh gas. To guard against condensation producing water in the tank in it doesn't hurt to use a gasoline additive that will absorb any water that has formed by the spring. There used to be a product called Gelex, but it is simply an alchool that absorbs the water. It is frequently used in cars if they get water in the gas.

When you stop and think of it, any car that go through a harsh winter faces the same condensation potential - especially ones that are kept in a garage overnight - and it doesn't seem to be a serious problem.

seapuppy · 10-16-2008, 06:57 PM

cept car's gas will usually get used up before a boat will..thus the constant cycle of cooling and semi heating producing condonsation will add alot of water as the tank breaths...car tanks don't vent as much as say 100 gal tank will....so..filling the tank will most likely keep about 95% of the condonsation down due to less space avail. in the tank....ie air space....

SP