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12-10-2018, 05:07 PM
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#1
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 40
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Outdrive Stuck Gear Lube Vent Plug
Hey All,
Happy Holidays,
I have an outdrive upper vent plug that seems to be seized.
I have tried an hand impact driver to remove it, with no change. I was told heat, tried that and again no luck. The outdrive itself was drained with the intention of filling it for winterizing.
My next resort is using a mig welder to weld a nut onto the plug itself. I would rather not remove the outdrive to do this, any thoughts?
Thanks!
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12-10-2018, 05:18 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,604
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You could drill it and try an easy out but that would most likely introduce metal debris into the drive. So heat along with the impact driver did not work? I guess trying to tack on a nut may work, I don't think the plug is aluminum but the housing is so be careful.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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12-10-2018, 11:28 PM
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#3
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Captain
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 556
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I would just leave it in for now and not worry about it. You can try to remove it again after you've run the boat a while, but it wouldn't be a priority for me.
To drain the drive lube, remove the lower plug and remove the top to the gear lube bottle mounted on the engine. When you refill the lube, leave the top off of the bottle again and pump lube in until it fills up the lube bottle.
That's the way I do it normally, I never remove the vent plug. Doing it this way will ensure you have no air in your lube oil system.
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12-11-2018, 02:27 AM
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#4
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Mass
Posts: 232
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Stuck Screw
I had one i used a flat blunt bit on a impact screw driver lot of light taps on it . And hold it tight in direction you turn the screw out , should move ?
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12-11-2018, 03:04 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,682
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You are going to have a very, very difficult time pumping in gear lube from the bottom without the upper vent port open.
1) Penetrating oil, a little every day for a few days.
2) Take an awl and put it in the far leading edge of the screwhead.
3) Take a small hammer and starting tapping counter clockwise.
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04-08-2019, 09:30 PM
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#6
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 40
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Finally!
Well, MAPP torch, awl, breaker bar, dorman screw grab, and a 1/2 bit did the job. Very happy I was able to get the darn thing out. The gasket they use is garbage, completely corroded to the aluminum housing.
Thank you all for the advice
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04-09-2019, 01:07 AM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,604
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The gasket shouldn’t corrode as it should be a fiber gasket.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-09-2019, 01:23 AM
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#8
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 40
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The boat is from 99, with 200 hours on both motors I dunno what to saw. I had to use the awl to scrape the remains of whatever was used. Antiseize is in there now so it doesn't happen again.
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04-09-2019, 05:53 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,682
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I've seen that happen. Both the temperamental plug and the gasket are the result of gross overtightening and time. scraping the gasket out destroys it because it's fiber, so it certainly appears to be destroyed upon removal. Sometimes it's so hard to see that some guys mistakenly think it isn't there, then put another gasket on top of the old one.
Usually, a little lube on the threads is enough to prevent it from seizing. I wonder how long it's been since the last lube change.
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