I think it's time to shine 'er up

[LillyPad]

Hey guys....I looked around for a bit and didnt see the "moron's guide to making your boat look brand new." With the age of my boat (2007) I'm unclear as to how to tell if I can just wash and wax really good or will need to use the rubbing compound...first day trip was last week and I was a bit embarrassed to have our guests on the boat (although I must say Lake Mead was a tolerable 72 degrees so that was nice).

Any help is appreciated!!!!

Also, can I just bring out my power washer and use a low pressure nozzle instead of screwing with a scrub brush?

[LillyPad]

Since I'm already committing the male's cardinal sin of asking another guy for help instead of grunting and doing it myself....do y'all also have a moron-proof how to change your own oil in the dock? I used to pay to have the guys down at the dock do this but it's too freakin' expensive......

[seapuppy]

Well.....first off...it really depends on how chaulky the fiberglass is......second....if it's just dirty and a bit dull...then getting a good polish/wax works well....I like to use seapower...it's easy to use...get an orbital buffer and pour this stuff on it and buff away..let dry and wipe off ...works great......now if your boat is really chaulky...rubbing out with a fine compound and a buffer is the way to go..really really bad requires wet sanding with about 2000 grit wet paper.....not fun but it will bring it back to near new........

now for the oil...go to your local boat shop...get an oil bouy...cost is about 60 bucks +/-....depending on the engine configuration..you can stick the tube from the oil bouy down the dip stick tube and start pumping then there's the tube from the oil pan that you can connect too to pump the oil out.....be sure to warm the engine up to operating temps so the oil will flow nicely...it will suck about 8qts of oil into the oil bouy.....it's really easy and pretty simple....
now the oil filter is another story...be sure to have several of those oil absorbing pads handy...if your filter is on top and in front of the engine, then when you turn the filter, oil will go every place....there is a trick to do....before you start sucking the oil out of the pan...get a center punch and poke a hole in the top of the filter.....start the oilbouy...it should suck the oil out of the filter making it easy to replace...be sure to put a film of fresh oil on the seal of the new filter.....
fill with 5 qts of oil...done....

SP

[venmous28]

Originally Posted by seapuppy

it will suck about 8qts of oil into the oil bouy..... fresh oil on the seal of the new filter.....fill with 5 qts of oil...done....

SP

if he's getting 8 out shouldnt he be putting about 8 in? ha.

better check your spec in the manual OP

[seapuppy]

venmous28
welcome to the zoo....


SP

[shrew]

I agree, a pump through the dipstick is the best way to go. As said, if you have a remote oil filter on the top/front of the motor, this can get messy. If the filter is upside down, like mine is, here is what I do. (Again, this is ONLY if your filter is upside, which would cause it to dump oil the minute it is unscrewed).

1) cut a square of the oil absorbing pad about 2-3 inches wider than the oil filter.
2) Use the new oil filter as a template. Place the threaded side down on the cut piece of absording pad, then use a razor to trace the outline of the oil filter.
3) pop out the round piece from the center of the cut pad.
4) Use the square piece of pad with the hole in it and slip it over the oil filter and around the base on the oil filter mount.
4) open the oil fill cap to release pressure.
5) Remove the dipstick.
6) Use a flat head screwdriver to punch a hole in the top of the old oil filter. This will release pressure in the oil filter and allow it to better drain down into the engine.
7) Suck the oil out through the dipstick.
8) Remove the oil filter.
9) remove the rubber gasket on the new oil filter and smear some clean motor oil on it.
10) replace the gasket on teh new oil filter and install the new oil filter. (Only hand tighten).
11) fill the new oil in the oil fill, less a little less than one qt.
12) replace the dipstick.
13) Run the engine until it's warm.
14) shut off the engine and wait to allow the oil to drain back into the pan.
15) Check the oil level and then top off until it's full.


I'll see if I can try to take some pics the next time I do an oil change.

[jrings]

I got a piece of advise from someone on another site that I have been using the last couple of years and it is surprisingly easy and work well...
-Take either a gallon or quart size ziplock bag and put 2 or 3 paper towels folded up in the bottom.
-Make sure to pre-loosen the oil filter just to make sure it is not too tight but don't actually break the seal by loosening too much.
-Slip the bag up over the upside down oil filter. The "ziplock" part of the bag helps give the opening some ridgidity.
-While using one hand to keep the opening of the bag up to the very top of the oil filter use the other hand to grab the pre-loosened filter (thru the bag, not reaching into the bag)
-Loosen it till the seal breaks and oil starts pouring into the bag. The paper towels will soak up some of the oil to keep it from splashing around and help to insulate your hands while holding the bag if the oil is real hot.
-After the majority of the oil has finished dripping out you can actually remove the filter completely and have it totally enclosed in the bag and put a paper towel under the probably still dripping threads of the oil filter mount until you screw on your new one...
Hopefully this makes sense, it was a lot harder to type than actually do...

Joe

[vffb507]

When we bought our boat mid summer it was in nice shape, but the gelcoat had lost its shine.. We used a cream type rub, a small orbital sander with buff pad, elbow grease and buffed it all. It really turned out very nice. Finished it all off with 2 coats of marine wax, to help it stay nice, too.