Engine Oil Recommendations and Winterization - Maxum Boat Owners Club

jrings · 10-15-2011, 02:26 PM

Alright, I did a search on lots of different threads and didn't come up with any solid recommendations for what oil to use for a pre-winter change. I have had boats for going on 10years and have always used just a straight 30weight oil. Before my current boat all the others have been older boats. I just want to use what is best for my motor since I only do an oil change once a year. I use sierra oil filters and I believe that Mercruiser recommends 20w40 oil. I really respect the knowledge of the people on this forum and thought I would get your recommendations. I also have one of the DIY things to run antifreeze thru the motor and I have done that for the last couple of year with no issues. I do however run the pink antifreeze thru the motor and then I open all the drains and drain it back out just to be extra sure. Is that dumb? should I just leave the antifreeze in the motor? Some people say that the thermostat won't open and the antifreeze doesn't get into the motor fully. (i think that is a load of you know what). My 1975 straight 6 just had one drain port and all I ever did was open that at the end of the year to drain the water and never had a problem with no antifreeze at all...
The prop on this boat is in pretty good shape but has a few minor dings from the previous owner. should I take it off (haven't ever done that before) and take it somewhere to get it reworked during the winter?
What do you guys use specifically for oil, filter and how about the antifreeze, drain it or leave it in...

2004 2400SR 5.7L. 2BBL 250hp with alpha1gen2

Thanks a bunch!

biggerseagar · 10-15-2011, 04:00 PM

Good Morning JRings........I am was kind of like you with using the 30w straight oil on my boats....until the price of it got so high I just started to buy the merc (or quicksilver ) 25w40 blend. You use to be able to could find 30 and 40 weight on sale somewhere but now the price is right up there with the merc brand. Our Walmarts have the merc brand in stock at $5.83 a quart which is very cheap. So that is what I use. Like you..... I use to use straight 30 weight, but around July I would change to 40 weight, that is when I use to put alot of hours on the boat. Now I'm lucky if I put 50 hours a season and changing the oil for little of time is not very smart and costly. Soooooooooo that is why I switched over to the multiy grade of 25w40 with the merc brand. Takes care of all the temps you might go through in the summer.I also use merc filters.

Now your second question.....IMHO I don't use the DIY antifreeze containers, but if it works for you.....what do I know! I have aways just drained the engine, using the coat hanger to unplug any sediment that might be there and then take off the gooseneck thermostat housing and pour regular 50/50 auto antifreeze (just alittle) so that I see the antifreeze coming out of the bottom drain. Then I tighten all the blue wing nuts up and pour in about 2 and 1/2 gallons of the 50/50 until it fills up, put the housing back on and done for the season. Yes that is the problem with the DIY's about getting a pocket of water somewhere in the block. That why I drain the engine and some people even shot air through them.

And last yes take your prop off and get it worked on. It would be considered preventative. If there isn't place prop shop in your area there are places you can mail it off to a shop. Alittle more $$$$ but worth it.

I done typing here and I hope this helps you get started.

Roger

seapuppy · 10-15-2011, 04:34 PM

Jrings/roger, et al.
first off...you really need to change the oil at winter layup to get all the contaminants out ouf the engine so it doesn't sit there all season and chew at the innerds.....that's a given....using either sierra or merc filters on a small block chev. engine is kinda standard...yes replace that too....as for what oil..well..that depends on your location you live in...down south..30wt is normal...engine runs ok on it....up here on the frozen tundra..we run multi grade oil....15-40, 15-50 doesn't really matter cuz you want it a little thin as it starts and then thicken up as it heats up....so...the main thing is to use what your area requires......using merc. synthetic is ok ..just use a marine grade oil....then in recommisioning...just fire it up and go...

winterizing your cooling system...there's tons of different opinions ...antifreeze the engine or drain and do nothing....here's the problem....it depends on if you have b2/b3 drives....a1 drives have the impeller in the leg itself....so....just draining the engine is ok for an a1 drive...pull all the plugs and let water drain out...then stick a dryer down into the engine bay and heat it up...that should get all the water out and help prevent rusting of engine parts...

b2/b3 drives....these drives have engine mounted raw water pumps.... thus they pocket water in the pump housing and WILL freeze.....(don't ask how I know)....anyway...replacing the water with antifreeze is highly recommended....so..doing the diy kit or having it professionally done is recommended....if you chose to do it yourself...the pink stuff is ok to use or even the green stuff..but don't let it drain into the local water(green stuff)...........

please be cognizant of your local environment.....

SP

mcoffey · 10-15-2011, 06:15 PM

Down here in VA (just a bit south of you) I choose to use Amsoil synthetic 15W40. Covers both temp ranges we get and is readily available locally. Our Wally World only stocks 5 qts of the Merc. stuff so they are always out when I go to get it. That is why I gave up and started with the Amsoil. I also gave up on the Merc. filters too. Seems every year they supersede the old filters to newer ones (so they will fit the new engines) and they keep getting smaller and smaller. Now my 5.7 2bbl only holds 4.75 qts, what a PITA!!
So I switched to Napa/WIX filters and use the original filter that it came with (the really long ones as I do have plenty of room for the larger ones). They too are readily available locally and now mine holds exactly 5 qts!!! No more need for 1/4 qt storage. So I use the Napa/WIX for both oil and fuel as well.

For the antifreeze part, I do what Roger does except I use the pink stuff. So I drain the block, risers and all hoses. Then pull the thermostat housing and pour RV AF till it starts pouring out block drains. Then close them up and pour till block is full. Then pour in hoses till it comes out risers and leg. Then install new thermostat/gasket and put it all back together. I like this method as when spring comes just install battery, drop in water and start her up.

mcoffey · 10-15-2011, 06:18 PM

Oh, and don't forget to add Stabil to the gas. I use the purple colored Marine Ethanol treatment (both Wally World and local auto parts store sells it).

seapuppy · 10-15-2011, 07:47 PM

one thing to note....IF your engine is still under warranty....be sure you use marine grade oils and filters....I know..cheaper at wally world ...kmart..etc....but ....not saying it can happen..but if you run into an engine related failure...merc. can refuse warranty coverage for not using merc recommended grade oil and filter...if your out of warranty...use what works for you...but be aware regular motor oils don't have the same additives as marine grade oils do due to moisture ..etc....

just keep that in mind....

SP

ps..1/4 of a qt won't make a hill of beans difference imho to an oil pan...etc...just a thought..I put in 5qts....not going to make a diff....

mcoffey · 10-15-2011, 08:12 PM

Sp, hate to say it but that is against US Federal Law. A manufacturer cannot require the use of branded parts for warrant unless they offer those parts for free. They can recommend all day long but not require.
I also would not call Napa/WIX/FRAM filters "cheap" by any means. These brands are the top rated filters money can buy and I would even guess are higher quality than OEM filters. I would bet that no manufacturer actually makes their own filters anyway, most are probably made by a "known" filter company.

I do agree on the oil grade though. I do use the Marine/Diesel 15W40 and it does carry an approved rating that Merc. calls for.

I do know 1/4 qt over will not harm anything, just drives me crazy when it is not right on the full line

So I always fill to full and put the 1/4 qt in the shed only to eventually toss it at the end of the year during the oil change.

FYI -- The warranty law is called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and has been around since the 70's.

seapuppy · 10-16-2011, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcoffey

Sp, hate to say it but that is against US Federal Law. A manufacturer cannot require the use of branded parts for warrant unless they offer those parts for free. They can recommend all day long but not require.
I also would not call Napa/WIX/FRAM filters "cheap" by any means. These brands are the top rated filters money can buy and I would even guess are higher quality than OEM filters. I would bet that no manufacturer actually makes their own filters anyway, most are probably made by a "known" filter company.

I do agree on the oil grade though. I do use the Marine/Diesel 15W40 and it does carry an approved rating that Merc. calls for.

I do know 1/4 qt over will not harm anything, just drives me crazy when it is not right on the full line

So I always fill to full and put the 1/4 qt in the shed only to eventually toss it at the end of the year during the oil change.

FYI -- The warranty law is called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and has been around since the 70's.

bit saying brand name....but the type of oil...ie marine grade oil as opposed to say regular car type oil.......make sure that if you use say purple oil...ensure that it states "marine grade oil...."....

that's all...if it's not fully marine grade...they might..."MIGHT" ...decline the warranty claim.....

this told to me by my merc. certified mechanic....

SP

mcoffey · 10-16-2011, 03:51 PM

Yes, fair point. You do have to use the "correct" stuff just not their brand. My merc. manual calls for a Marine oil meeting SH and CF/CF2 specs. The Amsoil synethic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine does meet these specs (the CF/CF2 rating is the one most do not meet).

Now their is always the "one throat to choke" plan where if you do use all OEM parts and something does go wrong, you just have them to blame

If you use 3rd party parts and something fails causing issues, you may haev to fight with a few people to sort things out.

Luckily mine is out of warranty and I don't have to worry about this. So I chose convenience and availibilty of parts over ease of warranty battles.