Bravo 3 maintenance

[dave4boats]

Has any one here taken a bravo 3 apart? Want to re seal mine this winter as well as replace gimble bearing and all boots. Have worked on alpha drives but never a bravo. Any special tools, tips, or tricks? I work in auto repair and have a lot of tools. Just ask my snap on dealer (lol). Don't mind if I have to buy or fabricate some tools either.

Thanks Dave

[mmwjr]

Under Documents you will find the mercruiser Bravo manual and it details the work and list the tools required. It's much heavier than an Alpha about 3x.

[dave4boats]

Yes I know I have removed it a few times. Have replaced shift bellows once and had a shift cable problem a couple years ago. Planning on making a dolly for it. Would like to paint it also. Wish me luck. Hopefully bearings are good. Been in fresh water it's whole life so not too corroded. If I have an exploded view of drive i should be fine.

Thank you Mike

[mmwjr]

Take plenty of pictures to post as you go along. Be interested to see them.

[dave4boats]

Will definitely take lots of pics. Also will take pics of my cushions as I do them. Probably won't start until December to many things around house to do before snow starts. Down loaded manual and printing now. 500 plus pages.

[MoonRiver]

I have done a lot of work on my Bravo I and would highly recommend fabricating a dolly. I made one with 2x4's and an old furniture dolly, it worked well but I wished it had the ability to raise and lower. There are a couple of Bravo specialty tools that can be easily fabricated like the Shift Cable Adjustment tools.

[shrew]

You should only need to replace the seals if the drive is split. Just like you should replace the mounting seals each time the drive is removed.

There is some thought that periodically splitting the drive ensures that the bolts don't seize. If they were prepared properly prior to installation and they should be fine.

[dave4boats]

You read my mind. I have some of those harbor freight dollies. And one of those small jacks from Wal-Mart to raise and lower it. In my cellar i have a bench with a old wood workers vice that will be perfect for holding drive once I split the two halves. Will take pics as I work on it. Thanks for all the input.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by shrew

You should only need to replace the seals if the drive is split. Just like you should replace the mounting seals each time the drive is removed.

There is some thought that periodically splitting the drive ensures that the bolts don't seize. If they were prepared properly prior to installation and they should be fine.

I disagree; seals can go bad especially ones on rotating shafts, drive shaft/prop shaft. The OP has not stated if he is doing this because he detected water in the lube or as preventative.

[MoonRiver]

I have been boating and maintaining my own boats for over 30 years and every time I remove the drive drain plug I get super nervous and anxious. It is always a relief to see clear (no streaks) in the drive oil. I think Mike is right though, you have to inspect the drive from the inside out at least bi-annually.

[speedysprocket]

I did prop shaft seals on one of my Bravo IIs. Huge pain. I know IIIs are different in that area, but still expect a struggle. I made my own tool to put the new hub ring back on, but had to cut the old one to get it off.
Also note all the shims inside. If you opt to replace any bearings, you will have to reshim them.

[speedysprocket]

And I’ve never needed a dolly stand. Boat isn’t stored at home, so I’m going to have to lift it in and out of my truck anyways. When taking it off or going back on, I find one of those like 8x8s they put under the keels at the boat yard. I set the drive skeg on that and walk the drive on or off.