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02-03-2015, 09:27 PM
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#1
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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bravo 3 lower unit oil
I'm going to do some maintenance over the winter, boat in heated storage.
I'm going to change out the lower unit oil. First year with this boat '98 2800 scr bravo 3. I have an auto fill reservoir for the gear oil. Should I pinch that line off when changing the lower unit oil?
Is it just a screw on bottom and top like on an outboard?
thanks, Mark
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02-03-2015, 10:11 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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Mark this is how I do it for my bll . I will empty the reservoir in the engine compartment first, then I empty the drive second by first taking the top screw out first and then the bottom last and let it drain. The fluid should be a bright green in color. Anything else and you have a problem. No pinching is needed.
The bottom screw should be magnetic so if there are very small shaving stuck to the end that is normal. Also the blue washer that each screw has needs to be replaced with a new one.
Filling it back up..... I hope you have a hand pump with a metal screw-in....that goes in the bottom hole and you pump until it come out the top hole, then fill up the container. Your first days out check the level cause it will go down.
Now why wasn't this done when you winterized? Letting the drive sit if it has moisture in it can be very bad. This is the same reason you change the oil also.
You might want to pick up a Clymer's manual for your boat. Lots of good infro.
Good luck
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02-03-2015, 10:31 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Mark I do not pinch the line either. First I run the engine so that the gear lube is warm and drain quicker but does not sound like you have that option at this time.
I then remove the cap on the reservoir the lower drain plug I also break the upper plug and check until lube does not exit and then remove the plug to help drain the entire unit.
Lube is added from the bottom until it comes out the top plug. I then install the top plug with a new blue washer and give about 10 more pumps. Next top off the reservoir which will need to be done about 2 - 3 time as the upper air purges into it, this will take about several days for each top off.
As Roger mentioned check for any metal filling on the drain plug which is a sign of an bad issue starting.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-04-2015, 12:30 AM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggerseagar
Now why wasn't this done when you winterized?
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He stores in a heated garage so probably did not winterize.
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02-04-2015, 01:08 AM
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#5
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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Not to beat this into the ground, even if it is going to a heated garage (lucky you Mark) his boat is still being put up for the season where regular maintenance should be performed. If he did do his engine oil and filter change in the fall why didn't the drive get done or maybe nothing was done because of the heated garage syndrome.
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02-04-2015, 02:01 PM
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#6
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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thanks for the info. Very similar to my outboard except the reservoir.
I have not got to go up to the storage building since it's an hour drive and buried in work. I plan on doing all the fluid changes this weekend. It is heated with a generator backup so it's fine until I get there.
thanks again.
BB
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02-04-2015, 02:52 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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So Mark I am curious if because of your heated garage that you have for your boat, what maintenance do you do to your boat in the fall when you put it up for the winter in your heated garage with a backup genny?
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02-04-2015, 08:53 PM
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#8
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Someone sounds jealous. :-)
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02-04-2015, 08:56 PM
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#9
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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Its in a large storage facility at a marina. They tell me that they don't suggesting doing anything with the water engine or water tank. Just pressure wash, pump out the head, pull the drain plug and bring it inside. building is maintained at 56 degrees and staff is there year round.
I am going to drain the water out of the block and put in RV antifreeze to be safe. Thought it might help reduced corrosion also.
I am planning on changing the oil and lower unit oil along other minor repair items.
its a 2 hour boat ride on lake erie to the storage but no storage close by that's heated and I don't have a trailer.
ended up being about $300 more to keep there rather than outside and wrapped at your dock marina. plus I can go there during business hours to work on it.
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02-05-2015, 01:26 AM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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Mark ..sounds great! Not jealous again just curious about your layup maintenance. I use to have indoor storage for the first 5 years we had our 3000. But I still did normal lay up maintenance. Like oil change, filters changes, fluids changes on the drives. I did this in October not February like the millions of other northern boater that put there boat away for the winter. Am I missing something here or are they telling you not to do any maintenance because it is heated? How will you heat the oil up if you can't start the the engine? Last question. ..what do they block your boat on?
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02-05-2015, 01:35 AM
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#11
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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I've done my annual in the spring for years... never a problem. I'd hate to change an impeller just to have it sit and take a set for 6 months.
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02-05-2015, 01:03 PM
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#12
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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IMO I would at least flush the engine in the fall and not leave raw water in it. I would also change the engine oil as it contains blow by products that are acidic that slowly eat at the bearings. If you have a Bravo drive change the lube if you have an Alpha and plan to change the impeller in the Spring you should crack the drain plug to inspect for signs of water in the lube as letting that sit will cause damage plus you will have the Winter to get the repair done.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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02-05-2015, 09:21 PM
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#13
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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I had all intention to do it in the fall but buried in side work with deadlines kept me from getting there. Everyone wants there kitchens remodeled before the holidays. Would have been much easier if the storage was close to home.
Throw in the 4 kids , 2 of which are identical girls just turning 3 and you don't get half the things done you intend to. Then to boot all 4 have their birthdays in oct and nov. almost forgot the huge yard with old growth trees that turns mine spare time into a leaf processing plant manager 2- 3 days a week.
Someone else make the jealous comment
BB
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggerseagar
Mark ..sounds great! Not jealous again just curious about your layup maintenance. I use to have indoor storage for the first 5 years we had our 3000. But I still did normal lay up maintenance. Like oil change, filters changes, fluids changes on the drives. I did this in October not February like the millions of other northern boater that put there boat away for the winter. Am I missing something here or are they telling you not to do any maintenance because it is heated? How will you heat the oil up if you can't start the the engine? Last question. ..what do they block your boat on?
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02-05-2015, 10:38 PM
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#14
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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Say no more......so when do you get to boat?
I've got grandkids that age and just having them over for a couples hours wears me out!
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