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07-06-2011, 03:04 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
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2000 SR3 Transom mounts leaking
For the past year I've had an annoying leak that causes my bilge to run about for about 10-15 seconds every 30 minutes or so when I am on the water.
This past weekend, I think I traced it to the starboard side transom mount that dips in and out of the water as we move around the boat.
My boat gets lifted into a warehouse at the lake I am at so I don't have easy access to the boat when we are done with it for the day.
I am thinking I just need to seal the outside and inside areas around the mount to stop the flow of water. When I say the flow, if I put my finger on the fiberglass inside the boat, it will slowly leak around my finger.
I am fairly new to boating so I am not sure if this is a common maintenance issue or not, but have been told by several folks that they can stay on the water all day and the bilge area (the SR3 bilge is under the engine) is dry.
Has anyone experienced this and what sealant did you use to seal it?
I've found a lot of comments on the web using 3M5200 Quick Cure.
Are there others I should think about as well?
I am hoping to seal this while on the water if possible.
Thanks ahead of time for any inside, thoughts or help!
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07-06-2011, 04:15 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Everett Wa
Posts: 4,681
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BEF
personally ..I'd take the mount apart and reseal with 4200 silicone sealant!!...that will ensure that it's sealed properly and doesn't leak in the future...you putting 5200QS sealant will just be pushed off and out of the way allowing water to continue...somehow you have to have a place to do some work on the boat at your dry stacks.....your right..the bilge should stay fairly dry...but it is a collection place for water...
SP
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Don't compare your life to others. You have no idea what their journey is all about.
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SSN683 Association member
Par Excellence
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2008 Bayliner 340 - "Wild Whim"
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I live in my own little world....but it's okay-they know me here!!!
Avid practitioner of the martial art: KLIK-PAO.
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Anyone that sez "Size doesn't matter" has never owned a boat!
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07-06-2011, 05:29 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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I think I'm suffering a brain lock - what's a "transom mount"?
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07-06-2011, 06:46 PM
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#4
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ventura County, CA
Posts: 153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
I think I'm suffering a brain lock - what's a "transom mount"?
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+1.........I hope (for him) he might be referring to the swim platform.
__________________
Brian
So. Cal.
Same admiral since 1973
New Boat 8/13/11: Chaparral 206SSI with 5.0 VP GXI SX
Prior Boat: 2008 Maxum 1900SR3, 4.3L V6 190HP, Alpha 1 (great boat)
2010 Ford 150 XLT Super Crew 5.4L V-8, tow package
2008 Infiniti G-35
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07-06-2011, 07:16 PM
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#5
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Ensign
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
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Not the swim platform, but the bracket on the back of boat that you secure your trailer transom tie down strap to.
SeaPuppy - I agree I need a long term repair like you outline.. Was just looking for a short term to get me through the rest of the season when I can pull it out for winterizing it.
Would 4200 work as well for ST and on the water repair?
If not, I will keep putting it up every night so it doesn't kill the bilge.
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07-06-2011, 08:05 PM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Everett Wa
Posts: 4,681
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you see...the problem is that the water intrusion may...just maybe getting into the transom wood and rotting it out....it really really needs to be taken care of...don't mickey mouse this to just get thru the season...it will only take you a few hrs for peace of mind.....
the pad rings or tie downs are stressed from hold the boat to the trailer....every time you trailer the boat...those are moving around..4200 is a bit more flexible....do it right and it will last a lifetime...mickey mouse it in place and you'll be doing alot more work than you want to do...
just my 2 cents...the old saying goes ...pay me now...or really pay me later....
SP
__________________
Don't compare your life to others. You have no idea what their journey is all about.
------------------------
SSN683 Association member
Par Excellence
------------------------------
2008 Bayliner 340 - "Wild Whim"
--------------------------------------
I live in my own little world....but it's okay-they know me here!!!
Avid practitioner of the martial art: KLIK-PAO.
Tap-Rack-Bang
Anyone that sez "Size doesn't matter" has never owned a boat!
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07-06-2011, 10:20 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Ah, the tie down eyes - got it now.
Gotta agree with SP. The transom is most likely fiberglass over a plywood core. If water is coming past the tie downs - whose studs go right through the core and then are bolted from the inside, then water is getting to the wood. If, and it's a big if, the holes were drilled and then the exposed bare wood was sealed with 4200 then water getting to the wood would be minimized, if not eliminated. Not at all likely the wood was sealed though.
I supposed you could slather on enough spooge to stop the leak but I think I'd want to know how wet the wood is.
Does your facility not have a ground level "work rack" they can place the boat in for a few hours?
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07-06-2011, 10:24 PM
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#8
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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And oh, if the pump is running 10 or 15 seconds for every 30 minutes the boat is in the water, that seems like a lot of water to me - like several gallons every 30 minutes. Are you certain it's leaking past the tie down eyes?
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07-07-2011, 01:29 AM
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#9
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Commander
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 289
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I have to agree with ss3964spd, when was the last time you had the bellows replaced? That much water seems like more than a drip through the tie down eyes. I saw a boat go to the bottom an hour after it was launched due to a bellows crack/rupture last summer.
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07-07-2011, 02:44 PM
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#10
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 109
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I just did the tie down reseal on my 1999 sr. It was easy. Its just a u bolt with 2 9/16" nuts and a plate on the back side. They are not too difficult to get too. Just back them off and remove the tie down. Clean the area around it, use a good quality sealant and replace. If the wood inside looks wet, I would let it dry out before applying the sealant. I used something that was specificaly recommended for through hull fittings and tiedowns from the local marine shop, but not sure what it is called as I'm not home right now. I put some in the holes and around the outside of them where the plate covers. The 3m 4200 or 5200 would be fine as well. Once you replace the tiedown and tighten it up, it will not move. Just be sure you have enough set time on the sealant. Some will set in 24 hours and some take several days. You can also look around the tiedowns and sometimes tell for sure if they are leaking just by the discoloration on the fiberglass. Mine had a slight rust colored stain starting to form. Knocked it down with a cleaner and a scrub pad before I reinstalled.
I also had the bellows replaced recently. Sometimes they are hard to see, especially the shift cable one as it is small. That's where mine was leaking. It had about a 1/2" tear that I didn't see until I pulled the ribs on it apart with my hand. I actually felt it before I saw it. Definetely check those as well.
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