Winterize a new 496 MPI? - Maxum Boat Owners Club

shrew · 10-20-2009, 04:58 PM

So I replaced my old 454 with a 496 MPI in July. Both the old 454 and the new 496 are Closed Cooling. In the past, i used to hook muffs up to the outdrive (Bravo III) and run the -60 Antifreeze (Purple propylene glycol) through the muffs, then spray some fogging oil into the carb. The new engine is an MPI. It also has a pump that will allow you displace the fluid from inside of the engine. I've found many posts that state that ONLY pumping out the engine with the bicycle pump is not sufficient. I keep forgetting to grab the engine number off the engine to buy a Service Manual.

Anyone familiar with the complete and proper process for winterizing one of these newer engines?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

seapuppy · 10-20-2009, 10:05 PM

Shrew
man I hate this time of yr...boats get put up for the winter...people come to the sites all cranky and missing thier boats..... :|

first off ..change all oils out...both drive and engine...then drain the raw water system down..
if you have the bicycle pumps...all your supposed to do is pump the blow down system until the water stops coming out...but that's after you fog the engine and shut it down...as for adding the antifreeze...it's ok to do it that way but then you can't blow down the system with the pump....there is also a blue plug down by the pump that will drain the raw water pump...if you choose to blow the system down...don't forget to pull both blue plugs to get ALL the water out...otherwise....fog and install antifreeze into the system...then there's the water tank and santank....both need to have antifreeze in them..the pink stuff....pump thru the system...drain the hot water tank...of fresh water...install pink and your done.......

SP :|

ss3964spd · 10-20-2009, 10:09 PM

Can't really add a lot of insight Shrew, except that I agree; no way are you going to get all the water out by pressurizing the engine block, and certainly not with a bicycle tire pump. Thinking about the water jackets around the bottom of the cylinders - how will pumping air into the block force out that water? Can't, unless of course you can find and open the drain cocks on each side of the crank case just above the oil pan rail. But still not going to get it all.

If you are doing this yourself I'd drain the cooling system and block as much as possible, then refill with 50/50. Run for 10 minutes after t-stat opens then shut down, let cool, and drain (or leave) the 50/50. This will ensure the 50/50 makes it into all the little nooks and crannys.

Dan

shrew · 10-20-2009, 10:53 PM

The engine is the last thing left before I cover it

. I pumped out the holding tank, flushed it with water then pumped it again, and pumped a bunch of propylene glycol through the head and sanitation system and opened the seackock to teh head. Poured glycol down the shower drain and ran the shower pump. drained the hot water tank and pumped the entire pressure water system full of glycol out of all the taps (H&C). ran some glycol down all the deck drains. Drained the A/C, pump and sea strainer, then pumped glycol through the raw water system for the A/C and opened teh A/C Seacock. pulled the garbard plug and drained the bilge.

I've already flushed the outdrive and engine with freshwater and changed the oil and filter. I was going to pump glycol through the muffs to flush the water out of the raw water cooled portions of the motor. I believe this should just be heat exchanger, risers and manifolds and oil cooler and water pump. Wouldn't I still be able to flush the water with glycol, then pull the blue plugs and pump out some of the water and be done?

More importantly, without a carb., what is teh best process for fogging? Do I just pull the plugs and give a squirt up each plug hole? Wouldn't I need to give the engine a couple of cranks with the plugs pulled?

If I weren't a 2 hrs drive from the boat, i'd just get the engine # and reference it to purchase the correct service manual. It seems Mercruiser doesn't seel them by model/year?

seapuppy · 10-21-2009, 12:14 AM

well..it sounds like you went above and beyond it all...since the you've already flushed the drive and block with glycol...I'd just shoot some wd 40 into each cylinder and that's about it.....how long are you planning for layup???...just the winter??....I would have also treated the gas in the fuel tank with stabilizer.....then run the engine till that got into the fuel injection.....not sure what you could do now ....

SP

irate:

shrew · 10-21-2009, 02:17 PM

Oops, I fogot I I used Startron and a stabilizer for ethanol in the fuel tank and topped it off and ran the engine for about 40 minutes afterwards just before it was pulled. Yes, i'm only laing up for the winter, but it gets very cold here in New England. I grew up boating in New Hampshire where it can get to the 20's or lower for many consecutive weeks. the boat is in So. Ct. where it's a bit warmer on the shore, but not that much.

I haven't pumped glycol through the drive and engine yet, only freshwater to flush out the salt and minimize salt deposits. So, flushing the engine with glycol, pumping the engine with the whacky factory pump to displace some of the glycol, then pulling the blue plugs to drain the remainder and shooting a bit of wd40 or fogging oil up each of the cylinders should do it?

ss3964spd · 10-21-2009, 02:48 PM

Yup, that should do it as far as the engine/drive goes.

Have to respectfully disagree with SP regarding the use of WD40. While I love that stuff it is really not intended as a lubricant, it's actually a solvent and will indeed wash the oil off of the cylinder walls and piston rings. Great for getting things freed up, displacing water, and removing some adhesives, not so much for lubrication.

I think the argument to squirt oil into the cylinders is somewhat debatable. My old '60's classic sits in the garage for 4 or 5 months at a time every year without being started and I've never had an issue. Come Spring I just pour a little gas into the carb's float bowls to fill it, pump the pedal a couple of times, and turn the key. Been doing that for 8 years after the big block was rebuilt.

Nevertheless, squirting the cylinders seems to be common practice and obviously the only harm it will do is to your wallet. You are right, when you squirt oil in them you will have to turn the engine over a few times - without the plugs installed (bent con rods would make for a very bad day), to ensure the oil gets distributed - and even then it may not unless you're a good aim and can hit the back of the cylinders and can run down to and then follow the rings to the front (remember the V angle that the pistions are at). Although I've never seen one I imagine a proper "fogger" will coat the entire combustion chamber with a lite mist.

Dan

seapuppy · 10-21-2009, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Yup, that should do it as far as the engine/drive goes.

Have to respectfully disagree with SP regarding the use of WD40. While I love that stuff it is really not intended as a lubricant, it's actually a solvent and will indeed wash the oil off of the cylinder walls and piston rings. Great for getting things freed up, displacing water, and removing some adhesives, not so much for lubrication.

I think the argument to squirt oil into the cylinders is somewhat debatable. My old '60's classic sits in the garage for 4 or 5 months at a time every year without being started and I've never had an issue. Come Spring I just pour a little gas into the carb's float bowls to fill it, pump the pedal a couple of times, and turn the key. Been doing that for 8 years after the big block was rebuilt.

Nevertheless, squirting the cylinders seems to be common practice and obviously the only harm it will do is to your wallet. You are right, when you squirt oil in them you will have to turn the engine over a few times - without the plugs installed (bent con rods would make for a very bad day), to ensure the oil gets distributed - and even then it may not unless you're a good aim and can hit the back of the cylinders and can run down to and then follow the rings to the front (remember the V angle that the pistions are at). Although I've never seen one I imagine a proper "fogger" will coat the entire combustion chamber with a lite mist.

Dan

Dan's right about the WD40...it's a water displacement type of lubricant...won't do any harm anyplace but yeah....I change my 2 braincells often and sometimes the new ones need reprogramming. :mrgreen: ...I think marvelous mystery oil is good to shoot in each cylinder.......sorry bout the corn-fusion.......

SP

irate:

shrew · 10-26-2009, 02:47 PM

So here's an update. I found a slick page on the Mercruiser site which I recommend adding to your favorites if you own a Mercruiser:

http://www.mercurymarine.com/serviceand ... drives.php

This is for Mercruiser MPI engines. (In my case, this is for a 2009 496 Mag MPI. ALL instructions are for boat OUT of the water). See link above for variations in model and recommendations from Mercruiser.

ENGINE AND FUEL SYSTEM PREPARATION:

1. In a 23 liter (6 US gal.) remote fuel tank mix:
a. 19 liter (5 US gal.) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline
b. 1.89 liter (2 US qt.) Premium Plus 2‑Cycle TC‑W3 Outboard Oil
c. 150 ml (5 oz) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer or 30 ml (1 oz) Fuel System
Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate Tube Ref No. Description Where Used Part No. 115 Premium Plus 2-cycle
TC-W3

Outboard Oil Fuel system 92-858026K01124
Fuel System Treatment &Stabilizer Fuel system 858071K01

2. Allow the engine to cool.

IMPORTANT: Immediately wipe up any fuel spills or sprays.

3. Close the fuel shut off valve, if equipped. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet fitting if not equipped with a fuel shut off valve.

4. Connect the remote fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the fuel inlet fitting.
IMPORTANT: Supply cooling water to the engine.

5. Start and operate the engine at 1300 RPM for five minutes.

6. After the specified operating time is complete, slowly return the throttle to idle and shut the engine off.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that some fogging mixture remains in the engine. Do not allow the engine's fuel system to become completely dry.

7. Replace the water separating fuel filter element. Refer to Section 5.

Draining the Seawater System

NOTE: This procedure is written for the air pump that is attached to the engine. However,
any air source can be used.
1. Place the boat on a lever surface to ensure complete draining of system.
2. Remove the air pump from the engine.
3. Ensure that the lever on top of the pump is flush with the handle (horizontal).
4. Install the air pump on the actuator fitting.
5. Pull lever on air pump (vertical) to lock pump on the fitting.
6. Pump air into the system until both green indicators extend and water drains from both
sides of the engine. The port side will begin draining before the starboard side.
7. Verify that water is draining from each opening. If not, use the Manual Drain System
instructions.
8. Allow the system to drain for a minimum of five minutes. Pump air as necessary to keep
the green indicators extended.
9. For DTS engines, pull the lanyard stop switch (if equipped), or disable the ignition circuit
by pulling the fuse marked "CD".
10. Crank the engine over slightly with starter motor to purge any water trapped in the
seawater pump. Do not allow engine to start.
11. Remove the air pump from the air manifold and return it to the mounting bracket.
12. Mercury MerCruiser recommends leaving the drain system open while transporting the
boat or while performing other maintenance. This helps ensure that all water is drained.
13. Before launching the boat, pull up on the manual release valve. Verify that the green
indicators are no longer extended.

Draining the System (Manually)

NOTE: Use this procedure if the air actuated single point drain system fails.
NOTE: It may be necessary to lift, bend, or lower hoses to allow water to completely drain
when hoses are disconnected.
1. Place the boat on a lever surface to ensure complete draining of the system.
2. Remove two blue drain plugs from the seawater pickup pump (front, starboard side).
3. Verify that water is draining from each opening.
4. Allow the system to drain for a minimum of five minutes. Mercury MerCruiser
recommends leaving the drain system open while transporting the boat or while
performing other maintenance to ensure that all water is drained.
5. For DTS engines, pull the lanyard stop switch (if equipped), or disable the ignition circuit
by pulling the fuse marked "CD".
6. Crank the engine over slightly with starter motor to purge any water trapped in the
seawater pickup pump. Do not allow the engine to start.
7. Prior to launching the boat or starting the engine, close the drain system by installing
the two blue drain plugs.

shrew · 10-26-2009, 02:51 PM

PS, it is strongly recommended to do BOTH the pump drain method AND removing the drain plugs as well to ensure you have removed all water. I drained the water with the pump and confirmed all drains were purgin properly. I then removed the hoses to the risers at the highest point and back filled with -60 Propylene Gycol on both sides. I then redrained with the pump and confirmed glycol was being purged. Then I removed the blue drain plugs and madde sure they were free of debris and able to drain properly. I gave the engine a few cranks without starting to make sure the raw water cooled fuel cooler was purged as well, as per the instructions.