throttle stuck after out drive install - Maxum Boat Owners Club

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 01:17 AM

Re: Alpha One Generation 2. I re-installed the upper part of the out drive today first, seemed to go in well, and all the bolts went in easy. Then I re-installed the lower unit. I didn't expect it would just slide in, so I though not being able to close the gap between the upper and lower units was maybe normal. When I tightened up the bolts, no problem, it closed right up nicely, EXCEPT, while tightening one of the bolts, I heard thud. Then it seem to close up fine as I tightened the bolts. When I went to start it (throttle all the way forward during assembly) I went to put in in neutral first, and after a little movement aft, and into neutral, the throttle shifter became stuck and cannot be moved in either direction. Would bad alignment be the problem (obviously) and would that be from the lower unit being not aligned at he linkage? I did move around the lower unit a little more than I was thinking as I had to stop to show my assistant (wife) which way to turn a nut to tighten. Maybe the two pieces that need to align (the right angle rod and where it sits on the upper drive) changed position. Does this make sense to anyone? Thanks.

mmwjr · 09-04-2013, 02:11 AM

The alpha units must be removed and install with he shifter in forward, sounds like you did this. When installing the lower half it's shift shaft must be in forward, the shaft is located on the forward upper part of the lower unit. It has a rectangler shape. You have to put it into forward and to make sure it stays there by apply slight countercloclk wise pressure (grap the shaft with you hand and lightly twist) on the prop shaft as you install the unit. Once the two halves are mated verify the lower shift shaft is sitting within the upside down U of the upper shift shaft.

BTY: don't forget to install a new O-ring on the lower units wall (right hand side) to seal the lube tube.

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 02:27 AM

Thanks Mike. Can you see if the two mate after you install the lower unit? I do think that we may have moved the unit around enough to more it so it wasn't pointing forward. Thanks for the idea of turning the prop shaft counter clockwise to keep it there. I am hoping I didn't do any damage, and that I can drop the lower drive and repeat the process, this time holding the prop shaft. You have been a lot of help since I joined the club. Thanks so much! I will let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

Oh, I replaced all the seals and O-rings today. Should I need to replace it again if it is OK?

CountryME · 09-04-2013, 02:42 AM

May I ask why you are not assembling the outdrive and then sliding it into the transom? When I did my impeller, I had great luck and it seemed to go right together.

-JP

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 02:57 AM

Guess it was a weight thing JP? It would be like 90 lbs put together. Oh well, I will drop the lower half and see if any damage was done, then try again.

If the throttle moves freely, after I take off the lower unit,then I will know the upper unit is assembled correctly. Thanks.

mmwjr · 09-04-2013, 12:40 PM

HL glad to help. The O-ring should be fine. Yes you can see the joint between the upper and lower once matted. I suspect it will be ok as I have done this once myself, that's how I knew what you did.

BTY installing the complete outdrive still requires light load on the prop shaft to ensure it stays in forward.

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 01:46 PM

Mike, did you have to drain all the oil out again, or can I drain half, and be able to realign the joint without fully dropping the lower unit?

OK, Part II: I lowered the unit and saw the alignment was off. Dropped unit enough to get her in the slot. Replace oil that had to be drained (about 3/4) and having a sandwich before turning the key. Hate to turn the key with a beer on an empty stomach....lol. And yes, the throttle moves back and forth nicely now.

mmwjr · 09-04-2013, 04:36 PM

Sounds like you answered your own question and are back in business

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 05:12 PM

Well, almost Mike. I turned the key, beer in hand, and it started. The wife and I clapped, but in about 13 seconds, it died. After that is would turn over, but not start. I am wondering if I missed the alignment for the copper and black pipe that connects to the upper unit. Could that cause me to not be able to start after a few seconds? I mean it was running, though I wasn't able to throttle it up to rev the engine. the throttle felt fine, just that the engine didn't want to rev. I will wait to hear from you before dropping the lower unite...again. Hey, they is how you learn stuff. If I could have pulled this off the first time, I would be a marine mechanic in the Caribbean...

mmwjr · 09-04-2013, 05:35 PM

The engine doesn't care if you are giving it water or not so misaligned water tube isn't the issue.

Sounds like a differnt issue. The engine is turning over so now need to verify spark and fuel. When you push the throttle forward can you see gas squirk in the carb (wife's help is need here). If Ok then need to check for spark at the plug wires. Use either a timing light or spark tester for this.

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 06:08 PM

One guy who put the lower unites without lining up the water tubes correctly had the same issues, and claimed it was because it caused it not to have enough "back pressure"? I would rather not re install the out drive, as I think it is fine now. All I did lately is replaced a shattered water flap in the engine exhaust and replace the spark plugs. But I will snoop around the engine room looking for a loose wire or fuel tube?

mmwjr · 09-04-2013, 08:10 PM

That "back pressure" story doesn't hold water with me. The term back pressure is usually in reference to the exhaust system where the engine has back pressure as the exhaust valve is still slightly open as the piston starts it's down stroke at the end of the exhaust cycle.

Think of it this way your car will still run without any coolant in the system, well for a short time till it overheats.

Try spraying some ether in the carb, if it runs a short time (seconds) it tells you there is spark but not getting fuel as the engine dies once the ether is burned. If it doesn't run on ether then a spark or timing issue probably exists.

CountryME · 09-04-2013, 09:23 PM

So, with beer in hand, you didn't happen to hit the lanyard kill switch on the throttle panel did you? I would start looking for the 3 simple things necessary to make an engine run, 1.) Spark, 2.) Fuel, 3.) Air. Since you most likely don't have an air issue, you are down to spark and fuel. Your description leads me to think either the kill switch was inadvertantly hit or you are fuel starved. When was the last time you changed the water seperator/fuel filter?

-JP

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 11:42 PM

Excellent idea Mike. We used to do that back in the day when we worked on our POS 56 chevys and fords. I will try that I am thinking it is a fuel issue. Does the engine have to be running for gas to shoot into the carb while pushing the throttle forward? Because, of course, I cannot start the engine. But I didn't work on anything other than what we have been discussing. Sometimes things happen when you are working on something else, and it throws you. I changed the plugs but cannot see any places where I could have effected the fuel. No loose ends that I can see. When my wife pushed the throttle forward a couple of times, the carb made it's motions, but I could not see or smell any fuel. My next plan is to replace the fuel filter. The fact that it started today for about 12 seconds makes me believe that it was running on the fuel in the filter, then died when it ran out.

HairyLady · 09-04-2013, 11:47 PM

Ummmm. I may be from the north, but I an not stupid...just not a boat mechanic...lol. No, that is not the problem. I don't think it is getting fuel. Why this is happening after I changed the plugs and worked on the out drive may be a coincidence. The boat has been sitting since 2004, so anything could fail after momentary use. I will let you know what I find, but I doubt new plugs are the problem. The fuel filter is the next thing to be replaced...due for it anyway. And no, the gas tank is not empty.

mmwjr · 09-05-2013, 01:09 AM

"not stupid"? I assume you are refering to JP comment about hitting the the kill switch. You would be surprised how many times this is the cause.

No the engine doen't need to be running for the carb to squirt when pumping the throttle.

So not ran since 2004, well I bet the gas that is in the tank is no good as the newer gas has ethonol (sp?) that will asborb water to a point then phase seperates. Try pulling the fuel hose off the thank that goes to the fuel pump and stick it a gas can with fresh gas to see if it will run on that but you will need t get the old gas out of he fuel filter first.

CountryME · 09-05-2013, 02:40 AM

Hairy, Please don't take my comment on the kill switch as condescending, I personally have bumped the switch and not realized it. Sometimes the simplest things can be the cause of your problem. Another possibility could be a clogged fuel tank vent. Good luck and keep us posted.

ss3964spd · 09-05-2013, 03:00 PM

HL, The boats' been sitting for 9 years, the fuel system, from the pick up in the tank to the passages in the carb, could have all sorts of gunk in it.

It certainly could be the fuel filter but, IMO, for this test I doubt the filter is cutting off gas flow completely. As was mentioned, the very first thing to do is remove the flame arrestor, look down into the top of the carb with a flashlight while someone operates the throttle.

As was said, if the carb is getting gas you will see two squirts of gas when the throttle is moved. If you don't see those squirts it isn't getting gas for some reason. If it isn't getting gas remove the line that connects to the carb, stick an empty water bottle on it, and turn the ignition on or crank the engine. Gas should flow. Check for spark as was suggested.

HairyLady · 09-05-2013, 06:44 PM

OK, after a night of rest, my mind is clearer. So, what did I did just before the engine would not run? I tried to re-install the lower unit, the throttle got stuck forward (because of the two pieces in the lower unit not aligning, so I (now this IS stupid, but deliberate) tried to force the throttle shift back to neutral (center position). I did use a good amount of force to get it almost back in neutral. Keeping in mind that the lower unit still had a misaligned two pieces that connects to the cable that goes to the throttle shift at the helm.
So I think I have to start there. Nothing else could have broke or went bad in one day. Any ideas on if any broken or misplaced cables could stop fuel from getting to the carb? Thanks in advance.

mmwjr · 09-05-2013, 06:57 PM

I don't know of any connection between the cables and fuel. There is a netural saftey switch in the shifter but if broken or misaligned would not allow the engine to crank just like in a car that only be started in park or netural.

I really don't think anything you did replacing the water pump is causing the current issue. I'll refer back to my previous post on further direction.