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06-26-2013, 09:59 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2
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Proper oil for 1997 Maxum 1900 SR (V6) and old gas
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me whether I am using the correct oil for my boat's engine. I checked the Internet for the engine's manual, as we did not receive one when we bought the boat used. The following paragraph is what I found in what I believe to be the engine's manual. I am not sure it is the correct manual.
"We strongly recommend the use of Quicksilver 4-Cycle Marine Engine Oil. If not available, a good grade, straight weight, detergent automotive oil of correct viscosity, with an API classification of SF or SG, may be used. Oil filter should always be changed with oil. In those areas where recommended straight weight oil is not available, a multi-viscosity 20W-40 (SF or SG) or, as a second but less preferable choice, 20W-50 (SF or SG) may be used. IMPORTANT: The use of non-detergent oils, multi-viscosity oils (other than 20W-40 or 20W-50), low quality oils or oils which contain solid additives specifically are not recommended."
I looked for the oils described above, with help from a salesperson, but I was only able to find 20W-50 oil at AutoZone. It is not special boat engine oil, just regular oil. Also, it does not say that it is multi-viscosity. I saw some special marine oils, but they did not have matching specifications. I only use the boat only on freshwater, if that matters. The boat has a V6, and I think it has around 190 HP.
In addition, my brother failed to drain the gas when the boat was last used, which was about two years ago. We are in California, so the gas has 10% ethanol, which the manual says is corrosive to its parts. The boat starts up fine and can go to full power, but I was wondering if we should drain the gas anyway. I plan to use the boat in a week or two.
Thank you very much for your help.
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06-26-2013, 11:25 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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I'd go with Quicksilver 25W40.
If the engine runs fine on the old gas then use it and replace the fuel filter when you fill up.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-26-2013, 11:51 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 2,294
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First welcome.....second..... why are you at autozone looking for oil for your boat? Go to your marine center talk to a boat guy and then purchase your oil. Either 25w-40 or straight 30w should be just aok for your 6 anger. Check out walmart they carry the quick silver brand ( mercury brand) oil and filter. If you get confused on this brand name difference they are the same.Quicksilver (old name)or Mercury( new name).
Your gas issue put some seafoam or sta-bil (green bottle) in with new gas and change the filters and water seperator and you should be ok.
Roger
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06-27-2013, 02:46 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,682
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Agreed. I use only Mercruiser 25-40 Synthetic. If I could get it locally, I'd buy it online and have it shipped ground. I'd also be adding either startron or seafoam to the fuel along with sta-bil for marine/ethenol use. Then top off the engine and let it sit for a day. Then run it. As soon as you burn through the first tank (Doesn't need to be the same day, just use the boat normally until the tank runs low) then change the fuel filter and drain any water. You should be all set after that.
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06-27-2013, 08:43 PM
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#5
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Why not put gas stabilizer in with the "old" gas, just to be sure? AS far as gas treatment goes, Seafoam and Sta-bil are great!
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07-04-2013, 12:53 AM
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#6
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Ensign
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2
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Thanks to everyone who has replied. I apologize for taking so long to get back to the thread. I have a chronic illness that flared-up. I will try your suggestions. Best wishes,
kjkolb
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07-04-2013, 02:49 PM
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#7
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sarasota/Bradenton FL
Posts: 67
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Quicksilver and Yamalube petroleum products are all manufactured by Citgo Petroleum in Houston, Texas, who also markets their own Marine Lubricants. All oil products must pass rigorous SAE testing, including compatibility for mixing products together, before they can achieve those ratings. I personally run Castrol in all my 4 strokers, Rotella in my Diesels. BTW, I've never had a bottom end failure.
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07-04-2013, 09:04 PM
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#8
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 125
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I talked with an old boat mechanic not long after getting our boat and his first advise was to always use the good oil, and change at least seasonally, and in our area (10% ethanol too) ALWAYS use the stabilizer, unless boating weekly or more.
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1997 1700SR "MaKs RAT attack"
VFF
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07-07-2013, 03:34 AM
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#9
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 16
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Hello -
I have same engine set-up.
Should I run it close to and empty tank before changing the fuel/water separator filter?
Is there an inline filter as well?
I see the canister filter, is it as simple as removing and replacing?
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07-07-2013, 05:09 AM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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roblga, if the gas isn't old changes the filters without running the tank down.
canister filter replacement is just like changing an oil filter, spin off old spin on new.
there should be a in-line filter were the fuel line enters the carb, unhook fuel line then remove the big nut on the carb filter will be right there.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-08-2013, 12:37 AM
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#11
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 16
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Thanks Mike
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