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12-23-2013, 01:50 PM
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#21
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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I did pull both head, I thought that when one side was blown then it's better to take both, it would felt quite bad when I fire her up again and the first trip next side breaks down.
As I mentioned the value them self might not be correct it,s more the difference between the values that's interesting, my compression tester cost mi like 20$ so I don't think it's very accurate.
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12-23-2013, 02:29 PM
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#22
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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I agree with doing both heads. This allows you to have fresh heads and new gaskets since you are already torn down this far.
When do you plan to reassemble? Post pictures as you do so.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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12-23-2013, 02:38 PM
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#23
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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I'm going to buy some paint for the heads and intake as soon as the stores open after x-mas,
When I have re-painted the parts again I will reassemble the engine,
Probably in January.
I will post updates and pic along the reassemble.
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12-29-2013, 05:25 PM
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#24
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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Intakt before repainting, some rust that didn't look so good,
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12-29-2013, 05:45 PM
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#25
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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intake after sandblasting and repainting with Quicksilver enamel spray paint.
i also repainted the heatexchanger.
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12-29-2013, 07:14 PM
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#26
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Fippe looks nice painted however you got paint on the bolt threads and it looks in the threads of th intake for the distributor hold down.
I recommend cleaning these up with a tap (intake threads) and die (bolt threads).
When do you get the heads back?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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12-29-2013, 07:46 PM
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#27
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Fippe looks nice painted however you got paint on the bolt threads and it looks in the threads of th intake for the distributor hold down.
I recommend cleaning these up with a tap (intake threads) and die (bolt threads).
When do you get the heads back?
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It's correct that I got some paint in the threads, I'm going clean them up,
I've got the head back and now when the intake is painted and that went well I try too touch up the heads a bit.
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04-01-2014, 08:27 AM
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#28
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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Some update, I was supposed too put the engine together in January but it got a bit cold outside so I started last Sunday instead,
I bought new bolts too make the reassembling easier,
Started too clean the surface, so far everything vent well.
Soon the first head was on place, started whit the next and everything felt really good until it was time too put the pushrods and rocker arms on place when I first notice that the moron who renovated the heads had put back a exhaust valve that is to short, they had cut of to much of the valve shaft.
Now I have to lift the head again go back too the workshop and the change the valve.
I got a bit mad at my self for not notice that before I put the head back.
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04-01-2014, 01:01 PM
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#29
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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I hear you. Only 1 valve wrong should have stood out but this long winter has gotten to us all.
BTY if you had already torqued the head bolts the gasket needs to be replaced.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-01-2014, 08:36 PM
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#30
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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Indeed it has, winter is not my favorite time of the year. :-)
I have torques the head :-( I talked too the workshop and they will give me a new head gasket,
And I hope they will not charge me for a new valve and the work to change it when they have messed it up.
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04-01-2014, 10:41 PM
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#31
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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They should not charge you for their error. Make sure you are using marine head gaskets and not automotive as they have copper in them.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-02-2014, 05:13 PM
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#32
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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They gave me a head gasket for automotive and told me that if I want another one I have to pay for it my self.
I don't want to argue before they have fixed the valve, if I do the probably will do a bad job replacing it.
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04-13-2014, 07:59 AM
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#33
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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I Was reading the service manual for my engine and came across the part where they show a flow trough diagram for closed cooling system, according to mercruiser manual it should be a flow trough opening in the thermostat housing that let's the coolant flow even when the thermostat is closed.
My thermostat housing do not have that flow through passage, is that a problem?
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04-13-2014, 12:08 PM
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#34
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Is the thermostat housing the Merc OEM (open system) or is it one supplied by ORCA for the closed cooling? Some system use a bypass hose that comes off the top of the intake manifold and connects to the engine water pump.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-14-2014, 09:19 AM
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#35
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 38
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I think It is a housing from Orca, and I have no hose from the intake manifold.
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04-14-2014, 12:39 PM
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#36
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,587
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Well if the t-stat housing is from Orca It is probably ok and may have a passage that you just don't see or some t-stats have a pin hole or 2 that allow some water to pass.
__________________
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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