Newbies guide to winterising / winterizing checklist

[fester]

I know I know another winterising post.. I've read alot of the posts on here and ~10 youtube videos.. I'm going to try winterise the boat myself and I've never done it before. Could you guys please review my steps and provide some additional advice? It would be very much appreciated.

For a start, I've literally put 2 hours on a new outboard leg so not going to change the gear lube for the winter.
It's going to be stored in an insulated shed with other boats/caravans
I'm not sure winterising is really necessary if storing indoors? however I thought I would do it for the experience anyway and a service/learning experience wouldn't hurt either.

Engine is a 1997 Mercruiser 4.3LX. It's only ever been used on freshwater.

Steps:

1. Heat engine so oil is easier to drain
2. Drain oil
3. Change/Fill fuel filter
4. Change/Fill oil filter
5. Change spark plugs
6. Fill back up with oil
7. Test/Heat engine to operating temp again
8. (read somewhere that this ensures antifreeze will get to all locations in engine due temp valve opening up releasing air locks?)
9. Run antifreeze through outdrive until pink stuff comes out exhausts
10. Pour stabiliser into the fuel tank
11. Fog engine through Carb until it dies?
12. Fill up fuel tank to the top to prevent condensation

After the mess:

1. Wash boat inside and out
2. Put seat covers on their side
3. Remove everything else
4. Make sure Bilge pump is clean/dry
5. Disconnect / remove battery

Finally

1. Move boat on trailer to indoor storage location
2. Try not to miss the boat for 5 months....

Questions:

• Do I need to drain the antifreeze out of the engine?
• What Oil & how much do I need roughly for a 4.3L Mercruiser LX?
• I think 10L should be enough antifreeze?
• Should I remove snap in carpets? or leave them in it? It will be in a very dry location.
• Leave the drain plug in or out?
• Any detergents/chemicals you could recommend to wash the boat with ? inside & out?
• Anything else I'm missing?

Thank you

[shrew]

What kind of boat? Are there other systems (e.g. water tank, pressure water pump, sinks, washdowns, transom shower, Air Conditioning, head, shower/sink sump)?

You don't need to drain the AF from the engine, but it doesn't hurt.

Yes, if you have a raw water cooled engine (no heat exchanger) then you will need to ensure the thermostat is open when flushing AF through the system.

Just because it's inside doesn't mean it shouldn't be covered.

Make sure to remove the drain plug

Consider sticking some brillo pad in the garboard plug hole to prevent rodents from crawling into the bilge.

I'd still change the outdrive oil simply to ensure that there are no metal shavings on the plug and no water in the oil. If there's water it will sit there all winter.

Mercruiser uses 25w40 oil. It comes in Mercury, Mercruiser and Quicksilver brands.

If you have scuppers, the pour a little into the scuppers. Sometimes they collect a little water in low spots.

[mmwjr]

Move this to # 1: Pour stabiliser into the fuel tank
Move this to # 2: Fill up fuel tank to the top to prevent condensation

doing so will ensure stabilizer gets into carb when running the engine.

Agree: Mercruiser uses 25w40 oil. It comes in Mercury, Mercruiser and Quicksilver brands.

"(read somewhere that this ensures antifreeze will get to all locations in engine due temp valve opening up releasing air locks?)"

This is to ensure the thermostat is fully open to allow circulation through the engine else water will be trapped in the engine and freeze.

After #7 is drain the engine and exhaust cooling system then flush with antifreeze. Less dilution of the antifreeze this way.

[biggerseagar]

Change your spark plugs in the spring..

[fester]

Thanks everyone for the solid advice. The Boat is a 2001 Maxum 1800 SC with a 4.3LX Mercruiser engine. Alpha 1 Gen 2.

Yep will leave spark plugs. Great idea with the brillo pad and yes the will deffo put the sta-bil in first. The oil isn't bad as its still brown, will leave that until next year I think and service it with the oil change/filters then.

I have two (hopefully) final thoughts/questions:
1. I've seen conflicting things on the internet about running the antifreeze through the engine. Some people take the tubes off, drain it and pour it in manually. Other people say drain it and run it through an outdrive with muffs connected to a funnel / tube. My gut says to use the muffs on the outdrive but if its better to do it by pouring it into the disconnected pipes then all the better.. If I use the outdrive then the impeller / outdrive gets some antifreeze too. Any advice here would be great.

2. Fogging the engine. If you fog the engine till it dies .. is it difficult to start it next season? Will any brand do? Its ~ 10-15 dollars between a starbrite fog vs quicksilver fog. Oh and do I need a crankcase oil stabilizer?

Thanks again :-)

[mmwjr]

I connect to the outdrive with muffs but doing this way you need to be sure the engine is fully warmed up to get antifreeze to flow through the engine otherwise the thermostat will be closed and only the exhaust gets antifreeze. This is why I drain the engine and exhaust before flushing with antifreeze, worst case the engine has air in its cooling passages but that doesn't freeze.

Any fogging oil will do. There should not be any issues starting in the spring. I've never used crankcase stabilizer.

[The Pirate]

I have heard that it is better to change the oil in the fall due to oil getting more acidic with use, and over time. This way engine sits all winter in fresh oil, keep those seals happy.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by The Pirate

I have heard that it is better to change the oil in the fall due to oil getting more acidic with use, and over time. This way engine sits all winter in fresh oil, keep those seals happy.

Agree with this and you need to run the engine after the oil change to displace any old oil from bearing surfaces.

This was items 2, 4 and 6 on the OPs list.