milky engine oil

[pascavone]

I just has the mainfolds replaced on my 7.4 MPI and had sea water in my motor oil.

The engine is fresh water cooled, with no loss in fluid, and the plugs are clean and dry, so its not a cracked bloack or leaking head.

I'm guessing my oil cooler which is feed by raw water is leaking.

I noticed oil slick floating behind the boat, luckly i had change the oil and the boat only moved 30 feet to the slip.

[MCM]

Alright...I'm no mechanic, but none of that sounds good.

[pascavone]

Yes, that why changing oil in the fall is a good idea, so if you had water, it would not sit in the pan all winter and rust.

I had change the oil weeks before, but the oil cooler is 12 years old, and you have high pressue oil running thu a heat exchange in the raw water line.

The oil is at a higher pressure and will push oil into the raw cooling low pressue, and when you stop the engine it will seep back.

also note, you have a fuel cooler, and a power steering cooler doing the same thing.

better it happen now then out on the high seas.....

[pascavone]

ok, took the oil cooler off and pressure tested it to 60 psi, all seam fine, put it back on.

Drained all the oil from the pan screw, and changed the oil filter.

Since I'm not losing anti freeze in my fresh water cooled engine block, I'm guessing its my new exhaust mainfold I has just installed.

I'm going to refill the oil, drop the water hoses to the mainfolds and run the engine a bit and then see if the oil stay clear.

[seapuppy]

I'd remove the exhaust manifold and regasket it....I'd also use a can of engine gunk in the oil and run it for about 15 min at idle on muffs.....this stuff is super detergent and will remove any crap in the crankcase....then change the oil/filter again..then run it to see if you get milky oil again....


SP

[shrew]

Even in a FWC, the Oil Cooler, heat exchanger manifolds and risers are all typically RWC. If you weren't getting water in the oil prior to manifold/riser replacement, I'd still be suspecting those. Maybe a bad gasket, possible 'resonance reversion'. This is essentially the water working it's way in backwards. I had a friend who had a similar issue whenhe replaced with Osco instead of Merc. Replaced with Merc Manifolds and Risers and it seemed to solve the issue. I'm not saying that is your problem, nor do all Osco's do that. It's just an example.

[shrew]

BTW- I would drain that oil ASAP and start doing oil changes. Run it for 15-20 min. then change the oil again. I'd do this quite a few times. I did 7 oil changes when I got some water an engine.

[seapuppy]

Originally Posted by shrew

BTW- I would drain that oil ASAP and start doing oil changes. Run it for 15-20 min. then change the oil again. I'd do this quite a few times. I did 7 oil changes when I got some water an engine.

that's why the engine gunk....super high detergent that cleans everything it touches....don't need to do several oil changes with this stuff...


SP

[pascavone]

the four port side spark plugs were wett...... so mr. marina man who never seen an new install mainfold leak, JUST SAW ONE LEAK....

so he owe me for the $120 oil change, the new spark plugs for the miss, and two days of my time..... and a new manifold.

the boat really did not start our run well on four cylenders, so their was not much time to get a lot of water in the engine.

Still, i will run it, the change it again, and see if that clears up.

these guys want to get paid and wash their hands with it, and blame it on a crack in the block....

[pascavone]

so, just had the new mainfold pressure tested, and it did not leak.

it appears to be the 6" rise between my new elbows to my new manifold.

so, now going to replace those.

I'm thinkin, my next engine will be a steam driven out board, not sure if if a rear wheeler or side wheeler....

[shrew]

When you replaced the manifolds, did you re-use the old risers and spacers? Are these the newer dry joint technology or the older style? If these are not dry joint, then I have always been under that the manifolds, spacers and risers all needed to be replaced together. In fact I have one old school buddy who holds to the idea that once they are married they should never be split. Not sure about that one though.

[pascavone]

would you belive that a blown fuse under the dash is making my riser leak sea water?......that would be a cheap fix......

[seapuppy]

how's that work???......


what fuse is blown to cause that???

talk about wierd..

SP

[pascavone]

the first 3 pictures are of the top of the 6" riser, the 4th pictures is the bottom.

dose it look lik it would leak?

[ss3964spd]

Yeah, it does.

[pascavone]

Starboard side forward cylinders 1 & 2 has no compression as tested by mobile marine.

mobile repair replaced two bent push rods from valve hydro-lock, removed intake galley and drained raw water pooled inside, replaced wrong spark plugs.

All engine cylenders now compression test at +150psi.

Good help is hard to find!

[pascavone]

why bend push rods was not that bad as it sounds....

the raw water leaking from my new mainfolds leaked down in the cylender and pull the water down on the intake stroke, water dose not compress, so when the value wanted to open on the exhaust stroke, the pressure was to great and the push rod popped off the lifter.

now, this all happen bumping the engine on the starter......... this is why i'm not screwed......

no rust, no cracked block, or blow head gaskets.....

just a bad gasket and old part, that some gasket sealer would have pervented.

the mobile mechnic recommends the gasket sealer.....

[ss3964spd]

I'm not sure I'm buying your mechanics' diagnosis of the chain of events (the push rod bent first, thus making it shorter, and it then came out of the rocker arm and lifter cups). The compression stroke comes immediately after the intake stroke so if the cylinders ingested water during the intake stroke the valves would not have been trying to open - they would have remained closed during the compression stroke. If there was enough water in a cylinder to somehow prevent a valve from opening - remember that the cylinder head chamber holds probably something like 70 cc's of liquid, the engine would have hydrolocked completely.

Regardless of how it happened you are extremely lucky it didn't bend or break a connecting rod or two. You got off easy!

[pascavone]

my guess is the leaking riser block was holding 1 quart of water above the engine, and it dripped down, all night long and filled two cylinders, pushed water up into the intake galley or flooded over into it, and the other filled on the exhaust stroke left open on a non runing engine.

other to cylinders where closed on a power stroke.... so they did get wett.

this all happen over a 10 min run time, and a two week period.....sitting at the dock....

i have a great respect now for exhaust manifold maintance. its basically a raw water pipe to your engine if not installed correctly....

[pascavone]

the good news the engine is runing strong and i took here out got on plane running 22 mph.

bad news is, the engine died, and i smell something buring in the engine compartment.

drifting in the channel, i got the fire extingure ready and open the enigne hatch, saw smoke coming off the batterys, and turned off the main battery switch.

battery no#1 got so hot it broke the wing nut termial screw off.

so...... sea tow yet again, and i check it at the dock, and the no#2 battery lead will get hot if i turn on the battery switch, so i got a big short some where, or the alternater crapped out.

this was a sea trial with no wife or kids...... so, my advise to avoid family drama is work the boat up a few time before loading it with spectators.....

par for the course for a 12 year old boat... new to me.... working one bug out at a time...