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06-18-2015, 05:14 PM
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#1
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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Melted exhaust hose
This happened the other day on ,y way back in, fortunately I was only about 1/2 mile from my slip, so I was able to limp her home. The white cloud that came out from the combination of burning rubber and steam from the water pumping out onto the hot engine was pretty alarming. When I bought the boat last season I was told the manifolds and risers were 2 years old. Trying to make sense of what happened, I contacted the previous owner, who contacted the owner before him. Well it turns out these things are more like 6 or 7 years old! Being a salt water boat, I have no idea how they lasted that long. And I wish I knew that so I could have changed them in the off season
Anyway, I sure hope more serious damage wasn't done anywhere. Am I correct that this is a job that can be done with the boat in the water?
Why would this hose melt and not the top one?
The plugs on the manifold look funky too
Thanks for any input
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2000 2400SCR
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06-18-2015, 05:15 PM
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#2
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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The temp gauge never went above 170 either
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2000 2400SCR
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06-18-2015, 05:41 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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I cannot see the pictures as my work firewall is blocking them. The hose will melt is not enough raw water is being mixed into the exhaust stream in the riser. This happens when they rot and clog.
5 - 10 years is life depending on salt level.
Helm gauge only shows engine temp which is why I use a hand held IR temp sensor and take measurements at the beginning of each season.
Beside hoses the flapper and exhaust bellows can be damaged.
repairing in the water can be done but if the top of the Y-pipe is below the water line water will come in and plugging it off while working is required. if to far below the water line best to pull the boat.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-18-2015, 06:41 PM
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#4
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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I wouldn't be surprised if the flapper was damaged, but there was water still pumping out, so maybe I'm lucky. If the top of the y pipe was below the water line, wouldn't water be leaking in from this new hole already?
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2000 2400SCR
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06-18-2015, 09:26 PM
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#5
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intern8tion9l
I wouldn't be surprised if the flapper was damaged, but there was water still pumping out, so maybe I'm lucky. If the top of the y pipe was below the water line, wouldn't water be leaking in from this new hole already?
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Yes but since I cannot see the picture I cannot say 100% what you have.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-19-2015, 03:39 AM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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I can see your pictures on my iPad.
It does not look like the hose has burned thru so I would still be careful about water entering when removing.
Looks like torques heads on the plugs, never seen these before.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-19-2015, 11:00 AM
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#7
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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A decent amount of water was pumping into the bilge when the engine was running from around those top hose clamps. That grey wire you can see on the lower left of the pic is about 5" below the water line, so I'll have to get a level and see where I stand
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2000 2400SCR
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06-20-2015, 12:07 PM
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#8
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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I'm between Sierra and Barr right now...Internet reviews are kind of all over the place, except a pretty unanimous no to GLM. Any experience with either?
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2000 2400SCR
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06-20-2015, 03:32 PM
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#9
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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I just did mine with sierra. Did it in the water, but I didn't have to remove that lower joint on mine.
These plugs from home depot fit the 4" rubber couples up top perfectly. I don't know if the lower couplers are the same size.
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06-20-2015, 03:42 PM
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#10
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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Thank you both. I was also thinking something like this if needed:
Not sure if that's showing up...it's one of the black rubber PVC caps that goes on the outside of the pipe and secures with a worm clamp
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2000 2400SCR
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06-20-2015, 04:06 PM
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#11
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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Did you use the gasket set that came with the sierras?
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2000 2400SCR
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06-20-2015, 08:05 PM
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#12
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Yes I did, but i failed to order the correct length studs, and my old ones were not reuseable (couldn't get them out of the old manifolds), so I made new studs out of threaded rod. Seems to be holding so far!
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06-20-2015, 10:56 PM
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#13
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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Are 5" studs with 3/8 thread correct? I see the Sierra set doesn't come with them
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2000 2400SCR
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06-20-2015, 10:58 PM
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#14
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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I don't remember the length, sorry.
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06-21-2015, 05:02 AM
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#15
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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I gave sierras on my boat and have no issues with them.
I bought the merc manifold to riser gaskets as I do not care for the ones Sierra has.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-07-2015, 10:15 PM
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#16
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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The job went pretty smoothly I have to say. The flapper on the port side was def burned off and now parts stuck in the exhaust somewhere I assume....
Here's some carnage probably all too familiar to some of you:
Unfortunately the new gasket on the port riser has I tiny drip, so I'll be taking that back apart in the next couple days. I'm also a little concerned about the location of said exhaust flapper pieces
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2000 2400SCR
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07-08-2015, 03:37 AM
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#17
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Typically flapper parts end up at the bottom of the y-pipe. You will need to remove the short turn down pipe and lower rubber hose off the y-pipe then stick a shop vac hose down the pipe and try to suck the parts up.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-08-2015, 04:52 AM
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#18
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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It's still in the water, so I'd probably end up trying to suck up the whole ocean. I thought about trying my luck with one of those flexible grabber tools. Or just leaving it till it comes out of the water and hope for the best
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2000 2400SCR
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07-08-2015, 12:18 PM
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#19
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,606
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Do not leave it there and hope for the best doing so has resulted in restricted flow and overheating. Try the grabber tool or put some duct tape on the end of it and try to stick it.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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07-09-2015, 12:50 AM
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#20
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 42
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Fixed the leak today. Tried the grabber and shop vac to no avail...
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2000 2400SCR
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