Knee deep in 5.7 swap... :) - Maxum Boat Owners Club

oneradride · 09-09-2011, 10:59 PM

Just 2 Questions, anyone ever used ball valves on the lower drains? I'm going to (please see pic) wondering if there were any negatives in doing something like this?

Also just finished putting together the bottom end today and I noticed one thing that does not set real well with me.. If anyone has any experience with one piece rear main seals... Only reason I bring it up is because the engine I took out is completely smooth on the crank where the rear main seal goes over it. The new one has a small grove all the way around it. Really don't think its suppose to be there and wondering what short/long term affects it may have on the seal? Or is this common and not a big problem?
Thanks for any advice - Darren

lots more here... http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae226/oneradride/

biggerseagar · 09-09-2011, 11:21 PM

Darren..........I'm just enjoying the pic's...........I don't have the answer to your questions either.........not as educated as you are. But when I do see something that catches my eye like your drain plug pipes with shutoffs installed, I say to myself ......nice idea!

Hope someone will answer your questions soon........

oneradride · 09-09-2011, 11:48 PM

Education comes from experience.. and most of my experience comes from stupidity

The reason I have to swap the damn motor is because I missed one of those drain plugs last year...

mcoffey · 09-10-2011, 03:30 AM

Hmm, that is a great idea on the block drains. I don't see any reason that would cause issues unless they are in the way of something (which I can't think of anything in the bilge that would be in the way).
As for the rear main, does the groove look like a machined groove or seal wear from previous seal?
How deep is the groove, just barely feel it or pretty deep?
Do you suspect the seal lip will rest right on this groove or in front or behind it?

It is common to see some wear where the seal rides though it should not be much at all. The seal does stretch up over the crank so you do have a bit of give here. I guess it could cause premature failure if too deep as once the rubber starts to wear away it will get to a point where it just can't seal anymore whereas without the groove it would last a bit longer.

Definitely coat the crank and inside of the seal (where it contacts the crank) with engine oil before installing it or it will give out sooner than you would like.

oneradride · 09-10-2011, 04:03 AM

Just enough to catch my fingernail... and its uniform all the way around. Looks like the seal is going to ride right in it though. I did lube the crap out of the crank and seal prior to installation.

As far as the drains go, I measured everything before I removed it and I don't think space is going to be an issue. It'll sure be a heck of a lot easier to open/drain them in the fall this way. Not sure why the factory doesn't do something like this. Those pipes and valves cost 10 bucks....... far less than the 2k long block.

Horizon · 09-10-2011, 12:31 PM

Great idea about the drains for cooling.

I have installed a ball valve for the oil at the oil plug once on a trailer boat. It worked great. When you take the boat out of the water you could drain the oil by pushing the hose thru the drain hole in the transom an placing a container to catch the oil. Then just open the valve and away she drains.

The valve was fine- no heat or oil damage.

mcoffey · 09-10-2011, 03:13 PM

Yep, I have seen the oil drains like that and maybe one day I will do that to mine. I alway wonder how much oil is left in there by just sucking out from the dipstick tube. Also that would be 1 less thing cluttering up my tool box (for the pump of course)

On the rear main again, I personally would not worry too much as it does sound like a minor groove. The only alternative here is to scratch the whole thing, return the engine and get another (not fun at all). Now you have to hope the new one is better than the one you had, if not you get to do it yet again

The groove itself is not going to cause issues, only the fact that the sealing surface is smaller diameter than it should be. If the reman company where to machine that surface to remove the groove, you would still be in the same boat (hahaha), the surface area would be reduced but maybe more this time because it was machined past the groove to remove it.

Where did you get the motor? Was it Jasper by chance? They have a pretty good warranty so if you start to have issues they will give you another and pay you some cash for the parts and labor too (had to use that warranty once

).

I would definitely take some emory cloth and go around it if you can (or did you already install the seal?). That may reduce it a bit more and make you feel a bit better about it.

seapuppy · 09-10-2011, 03:32 PM

I would put an oil pan drain tube in. That would give better access to oil changes.
Block drains would be good for winterizing .

Sp

ss3964spd · 09-12-2011, 02:14 PM

Emory clothe that groove and it'll likely be fine. You might also see if someone like FelPro makes a seal specifically to address that issue - one that rides slightly past the worn area.

Am digging the drain idea.

Dan

shrew · 09-13-2011, 01:59 PM

The drain idea would certainly makes things easier. The only two things that would concern me would be:

1) One gets accidentally hit while crawling around down there. I wouldn't want one open, even partially, during operation and there is no way to lock them shut.

2) Will they clear the stringers? I'm sure they will, though if I were to try to install them in my 496, they would not.

Just a couple of thoughts. Otherwise, great idea.

seapuppy · 09-13-2011, 03:58 PM

after looking at the photo's closer...you know....I just don't think those are a good idea....they stand off too far and could get knocked off....if you could thread an adaptor closer to the block...I might feel a bit better...but using that type of pipe ..that long ....might creat a problem later on.....

ok..let me tell you my thinking....back a looooong time ago(before I was involved with submarines)...the US Navy was testing a new class sub that had gone thru a yard evolution....(days before subsafe program)....there was a hull inlet that let raw water into the boat for cooling.....down at test depth..the pipe broke off due to bad welds....water was flowing in at an incredible rate....long story short..the boat was sunk with all hands....
after the investigation, they put any water related valves as part of the hull..then a few ft further down is a seconday valve....that way if a pipe broke...they could isolate it quickly....so...even though your not seeing anything like the pressure at test depth in a sub.....putting that much pipe tends to lend a weak area on your engine.....actually 2 weak areas.....
on a side note...look up USS Thresher sinking....

SP

ss3964spd · 09-13-2011, 05:16 PM

I was thinking along the same lines as SP. My concern would be around vibration. You've got those long nipples with the heavier ball valves hanging off the ends. As the engine runs I wonder if it would set up a vibration in those assemblies - eventually causing one or the other nipples to fatigue and break where it threads into the block.

Dan

oneradride · 09-13-2011, 11:47 PM

Thank you for your input!

No one is ever going to crawling around in there..... it's all I can do to even get my arm in there...... I could lock them closed with wire tires but there is no way they are going to get bumped.
Just a 5.7 I measured, they'll fit

SS and SP I will get shorter male to males for the valve. both twist away to open so no issue there. These also do not operate under the same 14 lbs PSI as an automotive engine does.. so that should not be an issue.

TonyA · 09-26-2011, 01:58 PM

Just my input on the groves. Some seals have a directional grove on one part of the seal, there’s groves are to direct the oil back into the sump/ help prevent leakage past the seal. The direction of the groves are crucial to the direction of the crank /shaft rotation. It sounds like you may have this already cut into your crank as appose to it being on the seal or both