I'm thinking of replacing my engine coupler myself

[pascavone]

look how easy it is....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB4h8GVTuys&NR=1

[cunuck]

I have helped change 4-5 it is a lot of work to pull the motor down in the engine bay .If the motor was easy to get at the coupler is a snap once the motor is out.Good luck

[pascavone]

I was thinking since its a single 7.4, i and just lift it 6" and spin in around to expose the flywheel housing.

i have 18" in front, and on the side of the engine.

I have hear stories of marina's wanting to pull a twin engine to replace a $100 starter.....

[seapuppy]

it depends on the size of the engine and stuff around the engine that will enable you to get to the engine and coupler...spinning the engine might not be possible since the engine is rather long with that coupler and the y pipe in the way....so...yes ..it doesn't take long to unhook the engine..but trying to spin it around might be a real pain....I'd look at if your going to disconnect the engine...see if you can move it fwd....then work on it from the stern end..if not..it might just be easier to remove the whole thing and do the work outside the engine bay....you do need to torque wrench the bolts to set it properly....

take pic's...be neat to see it during the process...


SP

[cunuck]

I would pull the motor quicker in the long run. Don't forget to line up the motor up after with the right alignment shaft .It might be a good time to change the gimbal bearing if it is older also check all you boots only a extra few hours to do and you would be good for a long time( just a thought)

[pascavone]

The problem is the boat is blocked 8'-0" off the ground and the rear sweep radar arch is hanging over the engine compartment.

The 7.4 engine is actually square in shape and size, so I did not want to get to crazy lifting the engine 20'-0" to get it out.

Thinking 6" over the stringers and will spin around or pull back, the flywheel and housing only six bolts.

Was planning on buying a prob wrench $14, a aligiment tool $84, and then do all the bellows and gimbal as you said.

If the insurance claim goes I will just let them pay the $3,200.00 bucks.

But they are squeeking about not paying a maintains issues, which I find hard to belive since i hit something and the boat stoped and was towed.

Always love to play Macgyver.... So i could fix it with some duct tape and old nails.....

[cunuck]

I know what your mean I used a fork lift to do the job we would be lost without it.If you could spin it worth a try but have plan B ready just in case.

[pascavone]

the insurance company want to do an investigation and will pay for it, so my boat is going to get trailed to the shop and out drive and motor pulled for inspection.
They are looking for aligniment, lose motor mounts, or prob damage.... which is 4" of pant rubbed off the drive and the blades shined up.

so, looks like i'm a little bit pregant....

[pascavone]

here are some pictures of the boat with the engine out.

the boat motor had to pull the motor foward of the radar arch.

Engine coupler replacement, the original had an aluminum insert, will replace with steel, main gimbal housing leaking, and exhaust manifolds.

When i got the boat it would take on about 4" of water in the bilge a week. Judging by the white salt stains, it had been leaking a long time.

The exhaust manifolds were after market, so they did not hold up well.

[cunuck]

Good thing you pulled the motor and found all the problems now you will be good to go in the spring

[pascavone]

My boat was taking in about 4" of water a week, and figured it was the drive bellows or the shift cable.
But actually it is the tiller rod gasket which is in the gimbal housing. You need to take off the outer gimbal ring to get to it.


The way you can tell a long term leak is to look for the white salt track running in the boat. The ocean water drys and leaves a salt trail.

Since the motor is out, it a good time to pre the boat for it's 2nd life with all new gaskets.

Finally, my boat had after market COSC mainfolds and everyone is telling me they are crap. $350 vs. $550 each for mercruisers. They have a cermic coating of a TE coating, your still looking at 5 years max.

They way to check your mainfolds is by using a heat dector gun that shows infered hot spots when the engine running, look for salt tracks or drippping, or take the elbows off and look for water.

any leak into the mainfold will drain into the cyclenders via the exhaust valves. the good thing is the raw water pump only feeds those mainfolds when the boat is running, and the engine will steam off any water with the 600 degrees of exhaust gas. the fear is you let the water sit in the cyclenders and the engine get stuck.

[pascavone]

This is the "mother" of all leak, when this gimbel shaft seal leaks, and the salt water corrode shaft, bushing, and nut.
This is very common for a 10 year old boat, since the seal is a simple rubble ring with a contraction spring on it to contract around the gimbel pin...(think of it like a condom)
You have to take the engine out to remove the gimbel assemble from inside the boat.


This is my old gimbel housing, then engine rear mounts rest on this and had corroded away.

This the new one, note the bottom bolts are under your Y-pipe.